Valve Train Issues

[beanhead]

Ok maybe they changed specs, wouldn't be the first time... This is the information I was thinking of
This is off their website:
http://www.compcams.com/technical/FAQ/FAQLifters2.asp

This is from a set of instructions I have for 822-16, with a non adjustable valve train

 

[69'Net]

Interesting, my instructions were intentical to that but differned pre load numbers. In my head I'm thinking that I don't have enough preload and that's causing my noise. Is it possible to have too much pre load causing the lifters to bleed down after awhile causing noise? Like I said in a previous post, my valve train is relatively quiet when the oil is cold. As it heats up, it gets loud. I will try and get some video of both tonight to help describe what I'm hearing.

 

[Garys1969RR]

What cam are you using? If a lifter isn't rotating, that's a problem. Could have a lobe going flat. What valve springs? Are they dual springs?

 

[Garys1969RR]

Sounds like oil pressure dropping is the problem. It's ok when cold, pressure is high. Ok when revved up, pressure is high. Noisy when idling hot-oil pressure is low. Then lifters are noisy

 

[vintage chromoly]

Every pushrods absolutely must spin.

 

[69'Net]

What cam are you using? If a lifter isn't rotating, that's a problem. Could have a lobe going flat. What valve springs? Are they dual springs?

Comp thmpr 23-601-5 is the cam I used, the springs are the springs that come on stealth heads. I don't know know much about them. Yeah I assumed if they were they weren't spinning that I had a lobe issue as well. Frustrating to say the least.

 

[wagonman]

I have a similar issue with a Comp XE 268H and their Hi-Energy lifters. When cold I have 1 or 2 that are noisy clackers. After warmed up the noise is all but gone. I pulled the suspect cover and can push on the rocker arm and get movement. This is with Isky ductile rockers and Smith Bros pushrods. I have adjusted the preload 9 ways from sunday and still have the noise. I chalk it up to Crap Comp Lifters. Next go round I am going to use some Crane anti pump ups. My machinist said the only diff between the Hi energys and the Magnums is the retainers, cheap wire compared to a cir clip.

 

[Garys1969RR]

Did you use high Zinc content oil, such as Rotella? Or a zinc additive like what comp cams recommends for new cam break in? Those are a must for a new cam.

 

[69'Net]

Did you use high Zinc content oil, such as Rotella? Or a zinc additive like what comp cams recommends for new cam break in? Those are a must for a new cam.

I used Lucas oil classic car oil with added zinc and the break in lube comp recommended. Along with their red lifter lube

 

[PRHeads]

The Thumper lobes are pretty smooth, so that combination of parts should be pretty quiet.

Did you check for proper lifter rotation during assembly?

At this point, the smart move might be to pull the intake so you can inspect the cam and lifters, and if they still look good, check for proper rotation(with the valvetrain fully assembled).

 

[69'Net]

The Thumper lobes are pretty smooth, so that combination of parts should be pretty quiet.

Did you check for proper lifter rotation during assembly?

At this point, the smart move might be to pull the intake so you can inspect the cam and lifters, and if they still look good, check for proper rotation(with the valvetrain fully assembled).

I did, the lifters were spinning freely before I put it together. I had one hiccup during break in. The timing was off and the headers got hot on me. I shut it off immediately, fixed the timing and the rest of the break in went smooth. Only think I can think of that could have caused this. Just in case, does anyone know if I can pull a cam out with the engine in place in a 69 coronet? From what I can see, I should be fine once my radiator is out.

 

[vintage chromoly]

With the radiator removed, the cam will come forward enough for removal

 

[Garys1969RR]

Right , I used to change cams in my 69 RR all the time. Pull radiator, maneuver it out thru the front. I would look at all other possibilities before changing the cam. How about a heavier weight oil? Bring the idle oil pressure up? Might help. 20W50 is good.

 

[BSB67]

There is a stamped support bracket for the hood latch mechanism that might need to come out too.

 

[69'Net]

Right , I used to change cams in my 69 RR all the time. Pull radiator, maneuver it out thru the front. I would look at all other possibilities before changing the cam. How about a heavier weight oil? Bring the idle oil pressure up? Might help. 20W50 is good.

I'm 30 at idle warm. Before I rebuilt this engine I was 12 at idle warm. I didn't have any issues with lifter noise. I have 10w40 in it now with that honey stuff that comp tells you to put in for the break in

 

[PRHeads]

I’m just gonna say it........

You know what else is quiet when the motor is cold and gets loud as it warms up?
A rod bearing going away.

Maybe get out the long screw driver to use as a stethoscope to see if you can isolate if the noise is higher or lower in the engine.

If you’re pretty sure it’s valvetrain related....... if you can get a helper, id try this.
Warm the motor up then take all the valve cover bolts out of one cover, and have someone hold it in place while you run the motor to make sure there is oil at the lifters just prior to pulling the cover.
Shut the motor off, lift off the cover, see how soft the lifters are on the valves that are closed.
The ones that were closed when the motor stopped turning should feel pretty hard at that point.
If they aren’t, then I’d try to figure out why not.

 

[69'Net]

I’m just gonna say it........

You know what else is quiet when the motor is cold and gets loud as it warms up?
A rod bearing going away.

Maybe get out the long screw driver to use as a stethoscope to see if you can isolate if the noise is higher or lower in the engine.

If you’re pretty sure it’s valvetrain related....... if you can get a helper, id try this.
Warm the motor up then take all the valve cover bolts out of one cover, and have someone hold it in place while you run the motor to make sure there is oil at the lifters just prior to pulling the cover.
Shut the motor off, lift off the cover, see how soft the lifters are on the valves that are closed.
The ones that were closed when the motor stopped turning should feel pretty hard at that point.
If they aren’t, then I’d try to figure out why not.

You're really trying to ruin my tuesday lol the noise goes away with higher rpm. Would a rod bearing do that?

 

[PRHeads]

Not usually

 

[Garys1969RR]

You're really trying to ruin my tuesday lol the noise goes away with higher rpm. Would a rod bearing do that?

Always good to isolate the noise, and see where it's coming from, before disassembly. May be too late on this one, but something to keep in mind for the future. Sure helps to identify the offending part.

 

[69'Net]

*update
I pulled the cam out today, mic'd all the lobes. I had one lobe that lost 0.019". I also have a cam bearings that is all chewed up and two others that are on their way. I primed the car and had good oil pressure. The guy that installed the bearings is headed over to look at it.