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Valve train rattle

I still have a problem. I got a new damper. When i took the old one off, key slot & timing mark lined up identical on both. How could the timing be so far off & the car runs decent. Starts right up. good idle, but i can't time it. How could a timing mark be so far off???

Chuck
 
Are you sure that your timing light is hooked to the #1 cylinder plug wire? Had to ask...Also, pull the distributor cap and turn the rotor to check that the mechanical advance moves freely and snaps back when you let go. While watching the timing mark, rev the engine and see if the mark moves up.
 
Time it by ear till the rattling disappears forget the light....

More great advice...aren't you the least bit curious as to what the problem is? That's like saying "Since my tire keeps going flat all I have to do to fix it is add more air."
 
I am curious... but with the timing @5° that would be the most logical place to start and I don't think a lifter tick would come in only on acceleration... it would be their all the time and get noisier with the engine speed.... and if the timing light doesn't work settling by ear always works... it's my opinion... you can divert the threads to question what I said but with out any useful inputs what good are you Colorado Dave.. there is never one definitive way there are many problems and many options I throw up what I think.... and if you.have an idea post it there is no contest and prizes for best answer... and some times you just have to add air.... drop in temperature or an old rusty rim may be at fault or the stem not the tire itself....
Or in some cases the tire was overiiflated and went flat because it blew off the bead...
 
If the noise is erratic and 'clatters', then it is likely mild detonation or pre-ignition related to timing. So get the timing right first. Was the cam installed with reference to the crankshaft timing marks or relative to actual #1 TDC? If the former, then you had better be rechecking your cam timing if indeed the damper has moved.

If this noise is regular, as in once per engine revolution or every 2 engine revolutions, and is not a deep knock like a crank bearing, then I would suspect a piston skirt or a piston pin.
 
X2 on that...

Be slow and thorough and work through everything.... everything is so interdependent on everything a slight problem amplifies to other components... a lot of things can cause a ticking.... try the less expensive stuff first then when you do find the problem(s) everything else is tested out good...
 
I'm actually embarassed to tell everyone what the the problem was. I have an induction timing light. It was not adjusted to the zero degree mark. It was set to a 30 deg setting on the light. Even with the "fix" i still have a little rattle in the valve train. I now believe it to be from bad gas. I get some "rattle" from the engine as the trans is getting ready to up shift from 1st to 2nd & 2nd to 3rd. I'm going to fill up with 110 octane to help solve the problem.

Chuck
 
If the pump gas sits 3 months it is crap. I glad you have it timed... you may still have a lifter problem if it doesn't come out of it with good fuel.. run a can of seafoam through it... like they say on the can. On top the 110 ..LOL you will fog out a foot ball field but it will clean the system..

- - - Updated - - -

Use a high grade oil like brad Penn ..... 20-50

Napa has a test kit that Will tell you how much and what kind of metals in the oil...
 
I am curious... but with the timing @5° that would be the most logical place to start and I don't think a lifter tick would come in only on acceleration... it would be their all the time and get noisier with the engine speed.... and if the timing light doesn't work settling by ear always works... it's my opinion... you can divert the threads to question what I said but with out any useful inputs what good are you Colorado Dave.. there is never one definitive way there are many problems and many options I throw up what I think.... and if you.have an idea post it there is no contest and prizes for best answer... and some times you just have to add air.... drop in temperature or an old rusty rim may be at fault or the stem not the tire itself....
Or in some cases the tire was overiiflated and went flat because it blew off the bead...

Sleepar: I guess you don't read any of my posts or you would see that I do offer potential solutions to problems in areas that I'm familiar with, as in post #22. Did I disrespect you by saying that "forget the timing light" was not a good 'solution' to clazar's problem? If I did, I apologize. And thanks for the primer on air and tires; like most of your posts, it's extremely valuable information...
 
Here we go again... I said to forget the light because it wasn't working. And suggested to move the distributor till it finds its sweet spot... how can that be bad advice..... it gets the car running. Start a new thread about tires.... and you have a lot of useful information on here.... it's not a contest just throwing ideas around if a hundred bad ideas add up to figuring out a problem who cares... but Colorado Dave..
 
Here we go again... I said to forget the light because it wasn't working. And suggested to move the distributor till it finds its sweet spot... how can that be bad advice..... it gets the car running. Start a new thread about tires.... and you have a lot of useful information on here.... it's not a contest just throwing ideas around if a hundred bad ideas add up to figuring out a problem who cares... but Colorado Dave..

Yeah, but do the 100 bad ideas all have to come from the same guy? I am seriously done with this thread so you'll have to argue with yourself, something I'm sure you're quite good at doing.
 
Motor is runing ok. I need to get some good gas & get rid of the "rattle".

Thanks All
Chuck

P.S. I appreciate everyones input, it's nice to have so many good guys like all of you trying to help someone in need of advice.
 
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