Vapor Lock Remedy/ Advice

[Billccm]

I have used StaBil 360 for several years on the advice of the previous owner of my car. Two ounces per 6 gallons. Not sure if it's helping, but have not had any issues, either. If anything it helps me worry about one less thing about the car.

 

[747mopar]

Just out of curiosity, what grade is available in your area? I have 2 places that sell 92 eFree. There are others that sell 87 eFree and I like that in the mowers as it doesn’t gum up in the off season.

Have you tried calling any bulk suppliers? Even in my small little town we have one, for $150 I drop off a 55 gallon drum and have it filled with 91 octane. Around here they call it rec fuel (recreational).

 

[68BabyBlue]

I have used StaBil 360 for several years on the advice of the previous owner of my car. Two ounces per 6 gallons. Not sure if it's helping, but have not had any issues, either. If anything it helps me worry about one less thing about the car.

I use the Lucas anti-ethanol stuff plus Stabil. Don't know if it works, but like you, I haven't had any problems.

 

[SuperRatBastid]

I sure hope you're not that fat, ugly, self centered, ego centric, narcissist that has that stupid *** show called Graveyard Trash? BTW, vapor lock can happen anywhere in a fuel system, not just the manifold or pump as you say!!!!

Ok keyboard hero. I gave you the definition and you chose to ignore it.

 

[SuperRatBastid]

I sure hope you're not that fat, ugly, self centered, ego centric, narcissist that has that stupid *** show called Graveyard Trash? BTW, vapor lock can happen anywhere in a fuel system, not just the manifold or pump as you say!!!!

Because I’m a nice guy, I’ll post this simple link with the definition of vapor lock. Please read the link and point out where vapor lock occurs IN THE CARB.

https://help.summitracing.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/5242/~/what-is-vapor-lock?

 

[moes]

to the OP, this is what I tell guys who have this problem. Install a carb spacer and open your hood as soon as you park the car, this will let heat escape from the motor area. You turn the car off and the motor temp keeps raising causing this heat problem, that means the pump and carb lines are getting hotter to, besides the carb. I believe the fuel from the pump and fuel line to the carb is turning to vapor and the carb bowls are percolating the fuel so there is no fuel in them when you go to start the motor again. When you go to start the motor again just push the throttle a little open (don't floor it, it will put to much gas into the motor and it will not start as quickly) and crank till the motor starts.

 

[383man]

Well you said you got there at 8:30 and went to leave at noon. The car should have been cooled off by then. And you said its was not getting fuel. Did you take the line off at the carb to see if it was pumping fuel. Because first off it should have had fuel in the carb and started even if it was not pumping fuel so the fuel in the carb may have boiled out as fuel boiling is a big problem with our cars and carbs today. The modern fuel injected cars have no trouble with fuel pressure at 48 psi and up. And if it was not pumping fuel it would not be vapor lock if the car had been sitting 3 to 4 hrs. And Fuel boiling and Vapor lock are two different problems. Fuel boiling will happen when the fuel in the carb bowl gets to hot and the eng is not running to hot when this happens. Its just hot enough out that the fuel in the carb bowl starts boiling and will push the fuel out the internal carb vents and right into the eng and the eng will start flooding.

Vapor lock happens when the car is running in hot weather and the fuel in the fuel line starts turning to vapor and then it causes the fuel pump to stop pumping fuel because its only vapor in the line and the car shuts off because it is not getting any fuel to the carb. Electric fuel pump helps alot against vapor lock because now fuel is being pushed under pressure to the carb and not being pulled under a vacuum as the fuel will start turning to vapor alot easier under a vacuum then when its under pressure and even the 5 to 6 psi pressure of an electric fuel pump for a carb system will help alot to fight vapor lock. But I have to agree you problem sounds more like the fuel boiled out of the carb and had no fuel in the carb bowls to pump and would not start. But the fuel pump should have pumped fuel into the carb after cranking a minute or so.

So you may have more then one problem as how is your fuel pump ? I would check the fuel pump pressure and vacuum first and be sure its up to par. As stated a phenolic spacer or wooden spacer under the carb will help also. Have they changed the fuel in your area lately ? I ask because about 8 years or so ago they changed our fuel with more ethanal in it and thats when my car first had fuel boiling as it stared to load up at idle and run rich and I eventually figured out my fuel was boiling and added a phenolic spacer and moved as much fuel line out from under the hood and I already had an electric pump. But good luck with yours and keep us posted as how it goes so maybe we can help. Ron

 

[JG71B]

A thicker carb gasket will help as will a piece of good insulation UNDER the intake, like the factory did. That and seal the fuel system, return etc. Non E fuel helps huge

 

[440 Charger]

WTFever!

Learn more brother.

 

[440 Charger]

Well you said you got there at 8:30 and went to leave at noon. The car should have been cooled off by then. And you said its was not getting fuel. Did you take the line off at the carb to see if it was pumping fuel. Because first off it should have had fuel in the carb and started even if it was not pumping fuel so the fuel in the carb may have boiled out as fuel boiling is a big problem with our cars and carbs today. The modern fuel injected cars have no trouble with fuel pressure at 48 psi and up. And if it was not pumping fuel it would not be vapor lock if the car had been sitting 3 to 4 hrs. And Fuel boiling and Vapor lock are two different problems. Fuel boiling will happen when the fuel in the carb bowl gets to hot and the eng is not running to hot when this happens. Its just hot enough out that the fuel in the carb bowl starts boiling and will push the fuel out the internal carb vents and right into the eng and the eng will start flooding.

Vapor lock happens when the car is running in hot weather and the fuel in the fuel line starts turning to vapor and then it causes the fuel pump to stop pumping fuel because its only vapor in the line and the car shuts off because it is not getting any fuel to the carb. Electric fuel pump helps alot against vapor lock because now fuel is being pushed under pressure to the carb and not being pulled under a vacuum as the fuel will start turning to vapor alot easier under a vacuum then when its under pressure and even the 5 to 6 psi pressure of an electric fuel pump for a carb system will help alot to fight vapor lock. But I have to agree you problem sounds more like the fuel boiled out of the carb and had no fuel in the carb bowls to pump and would not start. But the fuel pump should have pumped fuel into the carb after cranking a minute or so.

So you may have more then one problem as how is your fuel pump ? I would check the fuel pump pressure and vacuum first and be sure its up to par. As stated a phenolic spacer or wooden spacer under the carb will help also. Have they changed the fuel in your area lately ? I ask because about 8 years or so ago they changed our fuel with more ethanal in it and thats when my car first had fuel boiling as it stared to load up at idle and run rich and I eventually figured out my fuel was boiling and added a phenolic spacer and moved as much fuel line out from under the hood and I already had an electric pump. But good luck with yours and keep us posted as how it goes so maybe we can help. Ron

Thats a have to see.

 

[383man]

Thats a have to see.

Have to see what ? Ron

 

[440 Charger]

Have to see what ? Ron

Fuel boiling off till a carb wont deal with it lol.

 

[383man]

Fuel boiling off till a carb wont deal with it lol.

I guess you dont know much about the pump fuel of today. Seen it many times. First saw it about 8 years ago when the ethanal in the pump went up and thats why the fuel in the older days never had a problem. Pretty simple really as it pushes the fuel and vapors out the internal bowl vents which means it goes right into the eng and causes the eng to load up run rich and usually stall. It fixable if you know what to do. Ron

 

[MoparLeo]

Do the obvious, easy stuff first. Check all fuel lines and clamps.
A leak will act like sucking through a straw with a hole in it.
If you get the same thing to happen again. Take the lid off the air filter and operate the accelerator pump. No squirt ? most likely no fuel in the bowls. Leaked or evaporated.

 

[440 Charger]

Do the obvious, easy stuff first. Check all fuel lines and clamps.
A leak will act like sucking through a straw with a hole in it.
If you get the same thing to happen again. Take the lid off the air filter and operate the accelerator pump. No squirt ? most likely no fuel in the bowls. Leaked or evaporated.

Cant wait looking foreward to the start.

 

[Mixed-up XP]

I guess you dont know much about the pump fuel of today. Seen it many times. First saw it about 8 years ago when the ethanal in the pump went up and thats why the fuel in the older days never had a problem. Pretty simple really as it pushes the fuel and vapors out the internal bowl vents which means it goes right into the eng and causes the eng to load up run rich and usually stall. It fixable if you know what to do. Ron

Ooooh how I long for the days of good gas. Back in my high school days (mid 80's) I had a '60 Imperial with a seemingly bullet proof 413 and a '65 Barracuda with a 273 which in my opinion was the best small block for an all around cruiser and I never experienced vapor lock or any other fuel related issues. Let's face it, today's gas just sucks. I'm not one to get into conspiracy theories but it seems as though the mandates that have been put on fuel & oil requirements is the governments way of choking down the pursuit of OUR passion...and that's to keep these babies on the road. Just my opinion and just saying!

 

[440 Charger]

Ooooh how I long for the days of good gas. Back in my high school days (mid 80's) I had a '60 Imperial with a seemingly bullet proof 413 and a '65 Barracuda with a 273 which in my opinion was the best small block for an all around cruiser and I never experienced vapor lock or any other fuel related issues. Let's face it, today's gas just sucks. I'm not one to get into conspiracy theories but it seems as though the mandates that have been put on fuel & oil requirements is the governments way of choking down the pursuit of OUR passion...and that's to keep these babies on the road. Just my opinion and just saying!

Very true.

 

[Hartsnet]

I installed a return line and have totally eliminated my vapor lock problem

 

[Sweet5ltr]

Had car out to local cruise in Saturday. Cold start fine, drove about 30 minutes to event, arriving @ 8:30. Decided to leave @ noon. Crank and crank no start. Carb getting no fuel, had more than 1/2 tank. Pulled fuel filter, clean.fuel pump working. Put one short shot of starting fluid in carb, started.
I never had this issue before and don’t want to experience it again. Car is 400 4bbl. Carter Thermoquad rebuilt early spring performs well, mechanical fuel pump.
Any advice, install electric fuel pump?

Thanks
Charlie D

Just finished dealing with this last year on our daily driven, 77' W200 we restored.

STEP (1): add a fuel filter with a vapor return line.

WIX Filters P/N: 33040 (5/16" inlet - outlet & 1/4" return)
WIX Filters P/N: 33041 (3/8" inlet - outlet & 1/4" return)

When using these fuel filters, you don't need to plumb the line into the tank, it can be plumbed in the filler neck.

STEP (2): install your fuel filter at a 45* angle, with the vapor outlet at the top.

STEP (3): carburetor heat shield which includes phenolic carburetor spacer.
Holley P/N: 108-70

Follow these steps and you won't have any more issues with vapor lock. The manufactures understood this was an issue a half century ago, Chevrolet had return lines built into fuel pumps and carburetor heat shields already in place on production vehicles. Chrysler started adding the vapor return lines IIRC in 1970. They don't cost you any power, and if anything, the engine will make more power by keeping the fuel cooler in the bowls.

 

[68BabyBlue]

Just finished dealing with this last year on our daily driven, 77' W200 we restored.

STEP (1): add a fuel filter with a vapor return line.

WIX Filters P/N: 33040 (5/16" inlet - outlet & 1/4" return)
WIX Filters P/N: 33041 (3/8" inlet - outlet & 1/4" return)

When using these fuel filters, you don't need to plumb the line into the tank, it can be plumbed in the filler neck.

STEP (2): install your fuel filter at a 45* angle, with the vapor outlet at the top.

STEP (3): carburetor heat shield which includes phenolic carburetor spacer.
Holley P/N: 108-70

Follow these steps and you won't have any more issues with vapor lock. The manufactures understood this was an issue a half century ago, Chevrolet had return lines built into fuel pumps and carburetor heat shields already in place on production vehicles. Chrysler started adding the vapor return lines IIRC in 1970. They don't cost you any power, and if anything, the engine will make more power by keeping the fuel cooler in the bowls.

Chrysler introduced the vapor separator can and return line on the the '68 440 hipo engines and the hemi. Never had a problem with my first three stock GTXs. The last two had the can removed, and the return line blocked off. Both had vapor lock problems. Hooked up a can and reconnected the return line in each, and the problem was solved. Ran into a guy at the Carlisle event a few years back with a stock original '67 Hemi GTX he had driven in from Columbus, OH. He had dealt with vapor lock issues the whole trip. He had owned the car since 1968, and hadn't been aware of the factory improvements in the later models.