Wiring is boring but here goes... First , I put some heat shrink wrap on and heated it up. I'm almost out now and need to restock.
This.....what is referred to as a circuit breaker will remain inside.
When I think of the term "circuit breaker", I think of what you see in the power panel of your house where you can reset it if/when it gets tripped.
This isn't like that. I'm guessing if it pops, you just replace it?
It will be under the dash out of site but not impossible to reach.
This left four wires to go through into the engine bay.
One 14 ga red to battery positive.
One 14 ga white for ground.
One 16 ga white for another ground.
One 16 ga blue for Binary switch on the drier.
There was a hole in the firewall originally for supporting the heater/defroster unit. I hogged it out a bit, popped in a grommet and ran the lines through.
The 4 wires were routed over the booster and then alongside the red 1/0 cable that is used for the starter.
The white ground wires were joined at a loop connector and soldered, then put in place with the other ground wires.
The blue wire from the 4 wire group is for the High/low pressure switch mounted on the drier. I ran it through to the switch which has 2 wires. The other one goes back to power the compressor clutch. More soldering and shrink wrap.
Dwayne has a battery shutoff switch. I attached the single 14 ga red wire to the side that can be "disconnected" from the battery.
Just a few small details in the engine bay then this portion of the wiring is complete.
The Greg of 2010 would have used crimp connectors and thought it was fine. Now I solder each connection that I do for strength, reliability and corrosion resistance. An old timer set me straight on that and gave me a few pointers on how to do it. I am not great at it but my stuff holds together.