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Vintage Air installation in a 1968 Satellite

That's tight. I installed the Classic Air in the Coronet. The car was apart and the dash was out so it was an easy install.
The CA came with a paper template that aligned with the OEM holes, to mark the new holes.
As you said, the tubes poked out of the firewall so it was just a matter of hooking up the lines. There's also a hole for the condensation hose.
 
I get that, I've posed the option to the owner as well. The current plan is to use this plate but to paint it body color so it blends in. It could be left off, nothing is set in stone at this point. The advantage of using it is that it covers a few holes in the firewall including the original heater hose holes.
Yeah I put my sniper harness and vintage harness through my heater hose holes with these and plugged the rest and used some good wire loom to cover it.

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Vintage Air and Classic Auto Air both offer kits that put the A/C compressor in the stock location, allowing the use of stock length belts. One snag I found...Aluminum water pump housings place the thermostat housing slightly higher so the brackets to mount the compressor are slightly different. When ordering your kit make note of this. In my opinion, they should just default to the taller brackets so they fit every application. They may have a reason for having them different that I'm unaware of.
The compressor has four equally spaced mounting holes that allow the installer to clock the unit around to a favorable position and to aim the lines at 9:00, Noon or 3:00. For my car, I chose 9:00. I did the same here.
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One snag that occurred in both installations. The mounting bolt that shares the bracket for the power steering pump normally threads into a welded on nut at the back of the P/S pump bracket. The A/C bracket needs to lie there so the welded nut comes off.

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To secure the bolt, you'll need to finger in a 3/8" nut in a cramped space. Edelbrock heads have a thicker face here that crowds the area more than stock or 440 Source heads. To allow fitment and full bolt thread contact. On this head below, you can see a cut in the corner on the lower LEFT of the picture.

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The kit includes the thin nut plate to the right but it didn't look like it would be good enough compared to the thicker stock nut to the left.

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The owner wanted to keep his stock fixed blade fan.

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...THEN on a test drive after switching to the A/C pulleys, the faster fan speed made a whooooosh sound that he didn't like. That whoooosh is the trememdous airflow the fan provides using the smaller diameter pulley but at what cost? I am not 100% sure but I suspect that most if not all original A/C cars had fan clutches. The owner wants to swap to the clutch as part of the swap, that is also in the works.
 
Trying to find fittings for this thing is difficult.

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The small one is irrelevant for the moment. I've been trying to identify the thread size and pitch of the large three because I want to buy nipple/barbed fittings for the heater hoses on the interior. All I have is 4" long tubes straight and with a 90 degree elbow bend. They are all too long.


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If I had a way to re-flare the fittings, I'd just cut them back and add a flare to the ends so the hoses don't slip off. So far I've only been able to determine that they are 5/8" flare. There are what,,,FOUR grades of pipe and threads now? What a mess.

The owner decided that he liked THIS placement of the manifold...

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Maybe slightly higher. This will allow the A/C lines on top to rest almost flush with the horizontal part of the fender apron.
 
Too late now to absorb all in this thread. Plus, I've had a couple of beers too :poke:

But I'll be following along. I installed a Classic Air system in my 70 RR. Maybe I can help as you go along...

:popcorn:
 
I’d be interested in seeing how that works, Wayne.
 
I'm the owner of the blue 68 that Greg is working on. Thanks Greg for taking on this job for me since lately I'm short on free time and I want to get this final stage of my car completed. It's been a fun collaboration so far and I really enjoy hashing out the tech details. I've had far too many long road trips from Norcal to Socal without A/C and I cannot wait to have a more comfortable drive!

I've had this car since 2010 when I bought it as a basically stock running car with a badly oxidized rattle can paint job. However, it had zero body damage and is a very straight California car with zero rust, so it had good bones to start. Since then I've worked on the car little by little, doing a lot of the work myself, enlisting a few fellow mopar friends for help and advice along the way and when I had to pay a shop to do something (paint, suspension install), I try to pay as I go and without going into debt. This also means that what may take some a year or two to do has amounted to 13 years of work. Aftermarket suspension, steering, and brakes, new paint job, swapped the small block for a big block 451, new interior, a few other odds and ends and the AC is the last big item to finish. Along the way, the only time the car hasn't been driveable is when it was in paint jail for 8 months. I've had my hands on most of the nuts and bolts on this car related to the engine compartment and k-frame mounted items and have really enjoyed learning as I go. Too little free time lately though, so when I heard of Greg's pending retirement, I asked, we worked out terms, he agreed and off we go.
 
When I brought the car to Greg, as far as the AC goes, I had sourced a basic Vintage Air IV kit, which included the under-dash evaporator, solid state controls, hoses, some fittings and then ordered an additional fitting kit later, but minus a few things:
- I purchased from Bouchillon a Sanden Compressor
- I purchased from I can't recall where - the largest AC condensor with attached dryer I could find that covered my 26" rad
- I purchased a new 2 pulley Powermaster 70A alternator

I bought the above items separately thinking that the items I ordered were more to my liking than what came in the all-in-one Vintage Air kit. In retrospect, it may have been a wash. Remains to be seen.

I had Greg complete the engine parts swap for the new alternator, compressor, pulleys, belts, and brackets. I had bought some aftermarket pulleys, but then saw a few disturbing photos of grenaded pulleys, so I had Greg use some OEM pulleys instead. I was also running a fixed fan, but have since sourced a re-pop 18" 7 blade clutch fan with Hayden clutch. The radiator is a 26" Griffin Exact fit with 26" plastic mopar shroud from Summit Racing.

The car has aluminum water pump from Manicini Racing and Edelbrock RPM aluminum heads. Like Greg was saying, all these aftermarket pieces start to add up to sometimes being in the way.

I'm also not a fan of the prescribed Vintage Air AC line routing through the wheel well. I don't like having the lines open to the spinning tire and prefer having the lines engine side like Greg and a few others have done.

What's left for the AC is:
- mounting the evaporator
- running the lines under dash and engine side
- mounting and wiring of Vintage Air control panel
- misc fittings, mounting panel paint and making it look tidy and pretty

I'll then take the car to my local go-to mechanic that's helped me on this car several times. I'll have him charge the system with R-134 and make sure it's running right with no leaks.

Before I bought the Vintage Air kit I read up on Vintage Air and Classic Air. A few of my friends run Classic Air (Dennis H's car has a cool inside temp when I rode shotgun), but many seem to prefer Vintage Air for whatever reason. It's probably a crap shoot. Pros and cons for each. After looking at the installation instructions for both, I kind of wish I would have gone with Classic Air, but well, the money is already spent so here we are. I'm hoping for the best and trust that Greg will get it sorted. It seems the biggest headache is under-dash real estate for fittings coming off of the evaporator unit.
 
AC refrigerant line installation options:
- install per Vintage Air instructions through lower fender apron access, up into wheel well and into under dash
- install straight through firewall passenger side using billet 4 port bulkhead as planned and pictured above in Greg's posts

I've said I prefer to use the firewall buikhead, but no metal has been cut yet, so all options on the table.
Does running through the wheel well provide better fitting access/routing to the under-dash evaporator?
What are the downsides to running the lines in the wheel well?

I'm open to hearing pros and cons for both. Maybe you'll make me change my mind and make Greg's life easier...
 
I'm willing to do either. Obviously, going from the wheelwell would be easier for tying into the evaporator since the lines would be longer and more flexible. They wouldn't be as cramped.
The wheelwell routing does carry it's own issues. Each connection is a fitting and/or a crimped line where leakage is a risk. The wheelwell route has more fittings than the routing on the engine side. It looks cleaner overall but I'd still need to plumb in some Schrader valve in 2 lines for the high and low sides.
It is still up for debate. I also still await some opinions on which routing others have used and what they think.
 
AC refrigerant line installation options:
- install per Vintage Air instructions through lower fender apron access, up into wheel well and into under dash
- install straight through firewall passenger side using billet 4 port bulkhead as planned and pictured above in Greg's posts

I've said I prefer to use the firewall buikhead, but no metal has been cut yet, so all options on the table.
Does running through the wheel well provide better fitting access/routing to the under-dash evaporator?
What are the downsides to running the lines in the wheel well?

I'm open to hearing pros and cons for both. Maybe you'll make me change my mind and make Greg's life easier...
My 65 Belvedere system. I used wire loom for hose protection.
Mike
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The goal of my car has always been to look as stock as possible while still incorporating a number of modern day touches to make it better.
I chose to hide my A/C hoses in plain sight. My compressor sits low (below the alternator) and I simply routed the hoses up and let them "mingle" with the heater hoses. My dryer is mounted near the radiator so it doesn't add additional non-stock stuff under the hood. Below are a couple of pictures for you to evaluate how you like it.

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Below is a picture of the engine, prior to installation, for a better idea of the compressor location.
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I'm sure it will work great however you do it - good luck!
 
The goal of my car has always been to look as stock as possible while still incorporating a number of modern day touches to make it better.
I chose to hide my A/C hoses in plain sight. My compressor sits low (below the alternator) and I simply routed the hoses up and let them "mingle" with the heater hoses. My dryer is mounted near the radiator so it doesn't add additional non-stock stuff under the hood. Below are a couple of pictures for you to evaluate how you like it.

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Below is a picture of the engine, prior to installation, for a better idea of the compressor location.
View attachment 1589303

I'm sure it will work great however you do it - good luck!
I remember seeing photos of this before. I've always liked the way you did this. What brand AC are you running? Do you have any under-dash photos? I'm curious of the firewall entry location being a bit offset towards the driver side instead of closer to the passenger side fender. Was that for under-dash clearance?
I never would have thought to have a single belt from the compressor driving the alternator.
Greg, does my motor setup have the real estate to run the compressor down low like that? Thoughts?
 
The low mount A/C compressor means NO mechanical fuel pump since they share the same space. Some, Bouchillon included, claim that the single belt arrangement is at much greater likelihood for slippage. I considered it for the Charger but I have a fuel system with a mechanical pump.
 
I remember seeing photos of this before. I've always liked the way you did this. What brand AC are you running?
It is a Classic Air system with Bouchillon Engineering brackets to relocate the compressor down low.


Do you have any under-dash photos?
I'm curious of the firewall entry location being a bit offset towards the driver side instead of closer to the passenger side fender. Was that for under-dash clearance?
I can't say why it is oriented that way. I simply put the holes where they were needed based on the template Classic Air provided.
Here is the template
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Here are a couple of the heater control box mocked up, inside and out.
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Here is one during construction
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Here is a closeup of the controls
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I never would have thought to have a single belt from the compressor driving the alternator.
Greg, does my motor setup have the real estate to run the compressor down low like that? Thoughts?
As Greg said, putting the compressor there means you have to use an electric fuel pump as it sits in the spot where your fuel pump would be.
The belt arrangement sucks, and is a finicky pain in the butt. Once it is set, it seems to work acceptably, but it requires some tinkering to get it right.
I believe there is another way to run the belts that I think would be much better. I have some pulleys and will work on the project in the spring. I'm sure it will take some custom work to get it done, and most likely I'll have to customize my power steering bracket. If you are interested, look for a thread mid-year or so once I dig into that.
 
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