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Waking up the beast

I'm looking for suggestions on an intake/carb setup for my car. The specs. Are listed earlier in this post. I have a 2x4 offy manifold with 600 Eddy's now. I know this setup isn't good for the track. I'm willing to buy a hood and cut it if necessary:).
 
I'm looking for suggestions on an intake/carb setup for my car. The specs. Are listed earlier in this post. I have a 2x4 offy manifold with 600 Eddy's now. I know this setup isn't good for the track. I'm willing to buy a hood and cut it if necessary:).


Nothing wrong with that setup for now. Theres other things you need to do before that to get better performance.
 
Nothing wrong with that setup for now. Theres other things you need to do before that to get better performance.

Torque converter?

I'm holding you personally responsible if I don't get into the 8's with that converter you sold me
 
Edelbrock Victor or a MP M1 single plane with a 4 hole tapered 1"-2" spacer heat blocking plate &/or a phenolic spacer, {you need to keep your fuel cool} a 850 - 950 - 1050cfm {4500 Dominator if need be} properly sized & tuned, Vinton Needles & seats, 50cc accel. pumps, various discharge squirter sizes & pump cams, various jets up & down 5 sizes either way & use jet extensions on the rear bowl jets, an adequately sized lines, insolate the fuel lines from all heat sources, a fresh air scoop would help some too, seald off so you don't suck in hot engine bay heat into the carburetor, also a 3/8" or#6 A/N min. sized with a min. of a 3/8" pick-up {tank or cell} & #6 A/N lines, preferably a 1/2" #8 A/N lines & Pick-up or even larger, if budget is there, with as few of 90* bends as possible, a complete A/N plumbed fuel system & adequate sized fuel pump that can handle 150-180gpm min. @ 7psi constant flowing fuel pressure, all the way thru the traps, {use a fuel pressure gauge}, also a bypass style regulator with a line routed back to the tank/cell, keep your carb fed properly, also a K&N air-filter element... I like personally prefer a Quickfuel or Holley HP, formula get you in the ball park ; CI X RPM divided by 3456 = CFM , I'd also suggest buying a couple books on tuning too, so you know what cause/effects what with certain changes...
 
Edelbrock Victor or a MP M1 single plane with a 4 hole tapered 1"-2" spacer heat blocking plate &/or a phenolic spacer, {you need to keep your fuel cool} a 850 - 950 - 1050cfm {4500 Dominator if need be} properly sized & tuned, Vinton Needles & seats, 50cc accel. pumps, various discharge squirter sizes & pump cams, various jets up & down 5 sizes either way & use jet extensions on the rear bowl jets, an adequately sized lines, insolate the fuel lines from all heat sources, a fresh air scoop would help some too, seald off so you don't suck in hot engine bay heat into the carburetor, also a 3/8" or#6 A/N min. sized with a min. of a 3/8" pick-up {tank or cell} & #6 A/N lines, preferably a 1/2" #8 A/N lines & Pick-up or even larger, if budget is there, with as few of 90* bends as possible, a complete A/N plumbed fuel system & adequate sized fuel pump that can handle 150-180gpm min. @ 7psi constant flowing fuel pressure, all the way thru the traps, {use a fuel pressure gauge}, also a bypass style regulator with a line routed back to the tank/cell, keep your carb fed properly, also a K&N air-filter element... I like personally prefer a Quickfuel or Holley HP, formula get you in the ball park ; CI X RPM divided by 3456 = CFM , I'd also suggest buying a couple books on tuning too, so you know what cause/effects what with certain changes...


budnicks, he's only going 12.2's at best.
dominator carb??????? :drowning:
 
Edelbrock Victor or a MP M1 single plane with a 4 hole tapered 1"-2" spacer heat blocking plate &/or a phenolic spacer, {you need to keep your fuel cool} a 850 - 950 - 1050cfm {4500 Dominator if need be} properly sized & tuned, Vinton Needles & seats, 50cc accel. pumps, various discharge squirter sizes & pump cams, various jets up & down 5 sizes either way & use jet extensions on the rear bowl jets, an adequately sized lines, insolate the fuel lines from all heat sources, a fresh air scoop would help some too, seald off so you don't suck in hot engine bay heat into the carburetor, also a 3/8" or#6 A/N min. sized with a min. of a 3/8" pick-up {tank or cell} & #6 A/N lines, preferably a 1/2" #8 A/N lines & Pick-up or even larger, if budget is there, with as few of 90* bends as possible, a complete A/N plumbed fuel system & adequate sized fuel pump that can handle 150-180gpm min. @ 7psi constant flowing fuel pressure, all the way thru the traps, {use a fuel pressure gauge}, also a bypass style regulator with a line routed back to the tank/cell, keep your carb fed properly, also a K&N air-filter element... I like personally prefer a Quickfuel or Holley HP, formula get you in the ball park ; CI X RPM divided by 3456 = CFM , I'd also suggest buying a couple books on tuning too, so you know what cause/effects what with certain changes...[/QUOT

Thanks for the info. I have a 3/8 line now from the tank to the pump and a 6an out to the carbs. Would the cfm calculator be different between street and track only? I heard a lot of people like the quick fuel carbs.

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budnicks, he's only going 12.2's at best.
dominator carb??????? :drowning:

Are you getting intimidated by the thought of my car with a dominator?
 
Edelbrock Victor or a MP M1 single plane with a 4 hole tapered 1"-2" spacer heat blocking plate &/or a phenolic spacer, {you need to keep your fuel cool} a 850 - 950 - 1050cfm {4500 Dominator if need be} properly sized & tuned, Vinton Needles & seats, 50cc accel. pumps, various discharge squirter sizes & pump cams, various jets up & down 5 sizes either way & use jet extensions on the rear bowl jets, an adequately sized lines, insolate the fuel lines from all heat sources, a fresh air scoop would help some too, seald off so you don't suck in hot engine bay heat into the carburetor, also a 3/8" or#6 A/N min. sized with a min. of a 3/8" pick-up {tank or cell} & #6 A/N lines, preferably a 1/2" #8 A/N lines & Pick-up or even larger, if budget is there, with as few of 90* bends as possible, a complete A/N plumbed fuel system & adequate sized fuel pump that can handle 150-180gpm min. @ 7psi constant flowing fuel pressure, all the way thru the traps, {use a fuel pressure gauge}, also a bypass style regulator with a line routed back to the tank/cell, keep your carb fed properly, also a K&N air-filter element... I like personally prefer a Quickfuel or Holley HP, formula get you in the ball park ; CI X RPM divided by 3456 = CFM , I'd also suggest buying a couple books on tuning too, so you know what cause/effects what with certain changes...[/QUOT

Thanks for the info. I have a 3/8 line now from the tank to the pump and a 6an out to the carbs. Would the cfm calculator be different between street and track only? I heard a lot of people like the quick fuel carbs.

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Are you getting intimidated by the thought of my car with a dominator?


that gave me a real chuckle! Are you fiesty after your little nap?

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i'm now running 2 quickfuel 1250's .wanna borrow one?
 
Well I made Adapters for my pinto steering rck to take stock road runner tie rod ends . Turned out great and now I can finish my steering set up.
 
o
 

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His car could use a 750cfm or maybe even a 1050 Domoinator, tuned properly !!, flow is flow, I've used them on quite a few combos people wouldn't think, it will work great on... His car is capable of 11.50's, if he sheds some weight maybe faster & gets it tuned properly & the converter in finally...

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budnicks, he's only going 12.2's at best.
dominator carb??????? :drowning:

It's capable of allot better, it isn't there yet... he's got plenty of engine... they do make the Dominator Gen 3 in both a 750cfm & 950cfm IIRC too...

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depends on well his heads were done/flowed, flow is flow, I've ran a Dominator 1050 on a smaller engine with less cam & mildly ported RPM heads & went 9.70's 9.90's easily in a 3250# RR, they are great tunable carbs... if he has enough cam now for the new {SSR} converter, not run out of motor, quit pulling @ 1/2 track, it could work with the, cold air scoop, isulated fuel, correc6t spacer, the right air bleeds, jets, pumps, squiters & cams, metering blocks, manifold & fuel system &/or open exhaust "race headers" with the correct extensions etc.
 

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The street in front of your house looks like mine - full of rubber.
 
Gotta love Bevis and Butthead.

I'll throw my useless .02 cents in, Performer RPM and an 850 HP carb.
But yeah...you need to get that converter in first.
 
Gotta love Bevis and Butthead.

I'll throw my useless .02 cents in, Performer RPM and an 850 HP carb.
But yeah...you need to get that converter in first.

Nothing useless and nothing gospel. Everything needs to be taken in to consideration.
And yeah, Beavis and Butthead rule!!
 
looks to be moving up better, BUT it's still hard to tell, with out a real converter stalled up, dead stop launch, with heated up & warm tires, full throttle after launch, to actually see how well it is working under a race condition, not just a Sunday drive cruising around the block...LOL... etc... Hint hint, Wink wink, he he ha ha !!
 
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