WANT to DITCH Electronic Ignition 69 A12

[dadsbee]

WOW! Those prices are higher than I would have thought. What's an OEM single point distributor worth?

I paid $32 CDN for the rebuilt distributor that's running my Bee to 6000 rpms just as smooth as silk...

 

[Beekeeper]

Hi if tube radio receivers are still highly sought after as well the sound and tones are not reproduced by the digital stuff.

 

[vintage chromoly]

Those electronic triggers and boxes are great, until they aren’t.

 

[69a100]

Yeah, like $4000 rocker arms....

OU-F-in-CH, that's Borked up!

 

[65-440]

Those electronic triggers and boxes are great, until they aren’t.

Isn't that true for everything though?

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

Lots of different opinions on these distributors. Points if you know how they work are usually great to 10.000 miles, people not familar with them are scared of them for some reason. Electronic ignitions are also great for a long time till some thing goes bad, usually caused by inferior new parts.
Yes a $50 distributor from the parts store can be a great one also, IF IT HAS A CLOSE RIGHT CURVE! Some run great others not so well, but it will run. They are made for say ten years to cover say of all of the 413, 426 and 440 applications.

Numbers are numbers some restorations demand them for the points cars which I personally cannot afford but are a great source of reference. Lke the one the OP is looking for I have five other people looking for that one also. Goes by first on the list. If I get the core for 100 or 500 it is passed on. Then throw in all nos parts, new bearings 100 at least, leads 125, vac advance 250, point set 75 all MOPAR nos prices. Then a proper "MADE IN USA" cap and rotor easily can get to 175 also. Gets up there fast. So a good used one for 600 is not so bad IF IT IS GOOD.



NOSTALGA COLLECTOR 426 Hemi/raised block Dual Point Distributor -... (craigslist.org)

And some single points are very hard to find. great example 2875209 68 440-4 MT 375 hp find one under 300 for a good core. Have six people looking for one and just sent one to Germany.

Then throw in crank triggers, MSD boxes etc. Mostly to gain a .01 in the 1/4. Really comes down to what are your goals and what can you afford. Many many ways of accomplishing a good running car. But always have some spare ignition parts with you. Justy my 2C.

 

[440+6]

I converted to Electronics in the early eighties like a lot of people, but I still have my prestolite dual-point.
funny thing is the car is a 1970 v code 4 speed manual, but the distributor comes back for a 1970 Hemi automatic
it's still sitting on the Shelf looks like brand new.
I really doubt somebody swapped out the distributor buy 77 or 78 so it looks like probably Chrysler just through on what they had

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

Actually not common but it happened. Friend has a 71 440-6 charger he had since it was two years old. Same thing, wrong number.

 

[krazykuda]

I converted to Electronics in the early eighties like a lot of people, but I still have my prestolite dual-point.
funny thing is the car is a 1970 v code 4 speed manual, but the distributor comes back for a 1970 Hemi automatic
it's still sitting on the Shelf looks like brand new.
I really doubt somebody swapped out the distributor buy 77 or 78 so it looks like probably Chrysler just through on what they had

If they ran out of the correct one, they would have written a temporary substitution and used one that would work and was available... Especially if they had that part number already in stock at that assembly plant...

They would rather make a substitution than shut down the assembly line... They do it all the time...

 

[RJRENTON]

Lots of different opinions on these distributors. Points if you know how they work are usually great to 10.000 miles, people not familar with them are scared of them for some reason. Electronic ignitions are also great for a long time till some thing goes bad, usually caused by inferior new parts.
Yes a $50 distributor from the parts store can be a great one also, IF IT HAS A CLOSE RIGHT CURVE! Some run great others not so well, but it will run. They are made for say ten years to cover say of all of the 413, 426 and 440 applications.

Numbers are numbers some restorations demand them for the points cars which I personally cannot afford but are a great source of reference. Lke the one the OP is looking for I have five other people looking for that one also. Goes by first on the list. If I get the core for 100 or 500 it is passed on. Then throw in all nos parts, new bearings 100 at least, leads 125, vac advance 250, point set 75 all MOPAR nos prices. Then a proper "MADE IN USA" cap and rotor easily can get to 175 also. Gets up there fast. So a good used one for 600 is not so bad IF IT IS GOOD.



NOSTALGA COLLECTOR 426 Hemi/raised block Dual Point Distributor -... (craigslist.org)

And some single points are very hard to find. great example 2875209 68 440-4 MT 375 hp find one under 300 for a good core. Have six people looking for one and just sent one to Germany.

Then throw in crank triggers, MSD boxes etc. Mostly to gain a .01 in the 1/4. Really comes down to what are your goals and what can you afford. Many many ways of accomplishing a good running car. But always have some spare ignition parts with you. Justy my 2C.

Ray,
Regarding the distributor ("dizzy" to some members) shown in the link, MAY be for a Hemi engine, just not for the 426 Hemi we all covet. Just look at the cap clips....they are riveted to the body, not screwed on and the sealing surface area of the body....it supposed to use the leak prone, copper crush washer not the O-ring seal. Can't see the points area of the distributor to see how the points are installed and the little breaker plate grounding jumper is present, as well as the little coil wire "U" shaped retainers, often overlooked, when replaceing or adjusting the points. The part number shown is the dead give away...PN 1BB-4204S.
MoPar parts book shows this to be a 426 HEMI part number......just not WHICH Hemi model year....for $ 1350, I would want to know more specifics and better photos...... the old expression "let the buyer beware" definitely applies.... Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

Early hemi S is usually a replacement. Yes thats why I posted it.

 

[RJRENTON]

Early hemi S is usually a replacement. Yes thats why I posted it.

Early Hemi.....is that the 392 cubic inch variant.....where the distributor is in the back of the block?? Early distributors have the 1BB designation while later issues are 1BS designation. Again...rivited on cap clips show its an old variant.
BOB RENTON

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

I have to dig my books out. I have some early RB stuff riveted. Just threw that up for a price. Definitely replacement though with the s. Image 2 and 3 nail it.
Tell you what I hate re riveting them back on. Way to easy to chip/crack the case.

 

[69 R/T]

I wanted a Prestolite DP for my 69 R/T until I discovered the unobtainium factor and cost. I did the super stealth version of installing the Pertronix Ignitor II ignition on my car. This is the cleanest, most stock appearing method, and virtually invisible. Simply solder a large gauge jumper wire between the terminals in the back of the ballast resistor. This will allow the coil to run a constant 12v and both of the Pertronix leads can be wired to the coil terminals. If done properly, it's probably never going to get noticed, especially with an N96 or A12 air cleaner. Mine looks and runs flawlessly. I can retain my original alternator, voltage regulator, and no messy wires or Orange/Chrome box!

 

[65-440]

I wanted a Prestolite DP for my 69 R/T until I discovered the unobtainium factor and cost. I did the super stealth version of installing the Pertronix Ignitor II ignition on my car. This is the cleanest, most stock appearing method, and virtually invisible. Simply solder a large gauge jumper wire between the terminals in the back of the ballast resistor. This will allow the coil to run a constant 12v and both of the Pertronix leads can be wired to the coil terminals. If done properly, it's probably never going to get noticed, especially with an N96 or A12 air cleaner. Mine looks and runs flawlessly. I can retain my original alternator, voltage regulator, and no messy wires or Orange/Chrome box!

Exactly how I did my 68 coronet!

 

[RJRENTON]

Haha tube radios! So funny! I guess I should've kept my AM transistor board in both my factory radios and not converted them to FM and Bluetooth....

TUBES IN ELECTRONIC SOUND SYSTEMS.....ABSOLUTELY....
YES.....I still have my origional Dynakit Stereo 70 Amplifier and PAS3X preamp, and Daynakit FM Multiplex tuner, and Eico AM only tuner (ALL TUBE TYPE EQUIPMENT) and a Dual 1229 turntable and play 12" vinal records thru Acoustic AR3AX speakers....the combination of all of the above produces a wonderful WARM sound (what ever that means) without distortion form 5 Hz thru 20k Hz at listing levels that would make your ears bleed....nothing like Creedence Clearwater Revival or the Band or Chicago or the Eagles.... and replacment tubes are available on the internet...just like points and condensers are available for us distributor (aka "dizzies") efficienetos, for those that can appreciate such a stone age device....remember the days of Sox and Martin and Dick Landy and the Max Wedge wars of old....none of which ran electronic ignition....and ran extremely well.....BUT to each his own.....
BOB RENTON

 

[S&S BIRD]

There are a lot of good 'points' here. Electronics have let me down, more than once , and in heavy traffic. Now you are on a flatbed and have to listen to the drivers boring stories for the next hour. I miss the points distributors , as we used to carry extra points/condensor in the glovebox.....never stranded. People are never doing "quick fixes" on their cars at the side of the road anymore cause you might get shot, just try to call 'Mommy' for help with your dead cell phone ! We are now OWNED. Our hot rods ran just fine back in the 60/70's. Yup, I still drive 4 different old cars, never go to dealers or smog stations....don't have to or need to.....NEXT !

 

[kbfallon]

Yeah, like $4000 rocker arms....

I know exactly what you mean....I looked and watched for over a year to buy a set of good used roller rockers for a custom hemi charger build....and came up empty. I priced a set from one of Indy's Vendors and they accidentally sent me the retail and wholesale price...$500.00 mark up. It looks like I will bite the bullet and get the Stage V's if I have to buy new.

 

[kbfallon]

Lots of different opinions on these distributors. Points if you know how they work are usually great to 10.000 miles, people not familar with them are scared of them for some reason. Electronic ignitions are also great for a long time till some thing goes bad, usually caused by inferior new parts.
Yes a $50 distributor from the parts store can be a great one also, IF IT HAS A CLOSE RIGHT CURVE! Some run great others not so well, but it will run. They are made for say ten years to cover say of all of the 413, 426 and 440 applications.

Numbers are numbers some restorations demand them for the points cars which I personally cannot afford but are a great source of reference. Lke the one the OP is looking for I have five other people looking for that one also. Goes by first on the list. If I get the core for 100 or 500 it is passed on. Then throw in all nos parts, new bearings 100 at least, leads 125, vac advance 250, point set 75 all MOPAR nos prices. Then a proper "MADE IN USA" cap and rotor easily can get to 175 also. Gets up there fast. So a good used one for 600 is not so bad IF IT IS GOOD.



NOSTALGA COLLECTOR 426 Hemi/raised block Dual Point Distributor -... (craigslist.org)

And some single points are very hard to find. great example 2875209 68 440-4 MT 375 hp find one under 300 for a good core. Have six people looking for one and just sent one to Germany.

Then throw in crank triggers, MSD boxes etc. Mostly to gain a .01 in the 1/4. Really comes down to what are your goals and what can you afford. Many many ways of accomplishing a good running car. But always have some spare ignition parts with you. Justy my 2C.

I totally agree with you.....the points will last if there quality pieces with the right coil....just don't leave the Key On.

 

[halojumper]

There are a lot of good 'points' here. Electronics have let me down, more than once , and in heavy traffic. Now you are on a flatbed and have to listen to the drivers boring stories for the next hour. I miss the points distributors , as we used to carry extra points/condensor in the glovebox.....never stranded. People are never doing "quick fixes" on their cars at the side of the road anymore cause you might get shot, just try to call 'Mommy' for help with your dead cell phone ! We are now OWNED. Our hot rods ran just fine back in the 60/70's. Yup, I still drive 4 different old cars, never go to dealers or smog stations....don't have to or need to.....NEXT !

Ok, would it not be a bad idea to have an extra ballast resistor, ecu etc to have in case it decides to puke? Nothing wrong with points at all. I am running a mopar electronic ignition, because they are more plentiful. It's not 1972 anymore. The car I'm building hardly calls for the factory numbers correct distributor (or dizzy...yikes). To each his own in the end. What Renton said is funny that people that want to run an electronic ignition because a buddy does, or some intangible reason....really?