Water in all the cylinders?

[Moparfiend]

Whoa, I didn't see this when I posted. If you had coolant in the oil pan BEFORE all this happened, then there might be a cracked block, cracked head or at least a blown head gasket ALREADY before you started on this repair.

NO! I put fresh oil in it right when I got the car and the old oil looked new!!!! So I used NEW oil BEFORE I syarted the car up!!!!

 

[khryslerkid]

Whoa, I didn't see this when I posted. If you had coolant in the oil pan BEFORE all this happened, then there might be a cracked block, cracked head or at least a blown head gasket ALREADY before you started on this repair.

We need some history on this engine.

Stated it hadn't ran for many years. Was it ever exposed to freezing temps without antifreeze in the system, ect.

 

[Dibbons]

In the timing cover, directly behind the water pump, I found a hole corroded right thru my aluminum timing cover. A perforation in this area will allow coolant to mix with oil in the crankcase. Just a thought.

 

[Moparfiend]

In the timing cover, directly behind the water pump, I found a hole corroded right thru my aluminum timing cover. A perforation in this area will allow coolant to mix with oil in the crankcase. Just a thought.

View attachment 561039

Wow good point! I did clean this off so far this is the best pic before cleaning. I did not see any obvious holes. I might pull that area appart and check again!

 

[69Bee]

I have looked hard, and it is real odd. Water in all cylinders?!?!? The heads are LA heads, and the manifold looks to fit the LA properly. Also, a hole in the timing cover will put water in the crankcase, and not into the cylinders. I see the cork end pieces, but that would only send water into the crankcase, not the cylinders. There is also no way I can see any water getting into ALL cylinders, if any at all. It does look like you used silicone on the end rails on the new manifold, so that again when you put it back. The cork will usually hold up the manifold, and water leaks into the crankcase. The only thing I can imagine is that maybe the heads were not tight. Taking off heads can get water in cylinders, but certainly NOT all of them, and sure as hell not that much water. How hard was it to remove the head bolts?

You are going to have to remover the motor, and have the rods checked for damage due to the hydro-locking. You usually can't see it easily with the naked eye, but we machine shops have an alignment fixture to check them. If you want to bring the motor down here, I can rebuild it for you. You wouldn't be the first from Phx, or from another state even.

 

[Mike67]

I have looked hard, and it is real odd. Water in all cylinders?!?!? The heads are LA heads, and the manifold looks to fit the LA properly. Also, a hole in the timing cover will put water in the crankcase, and not into the cylinders. I see the cork end pieces, but that would only send water into the crankcase, not the cylinders. There is also no way I can see any water getting into ALL cylinders, if any at all. It does look like you used silicone on the end rails on the new manifold, so that again when you put it back. The cork will usually hold up the manifold, and water leaks into the crankcase. The only thing I can imagine is that maybe the heads were not tight. Taking off heads can get water in cylinders, but certainly NOT all of them, and sure as hell not that much water. How hard was it to remove the head bolts?

Look at the manifold ports , a lot of rust stains there could water get to an intake port???Even with a little overlap ( intake and exhaust being open @ the same time) there is a lot of rust.... Could water have leaked from the water jackets behind that solid type gasket???

 

[Moparfiend]

I have looked hard, and it is real odd. Water in all cylinders?!?!? The heads are LA heads, and the manifold looks to fit the LA properly. Also, a hole in the timing cover will put water in the crankcase, and not into the cylinders. I see the cork end pieces, but that would only send water into the crankcase, not the cylinders. There is also no way I can see any water getting into ALL cylinders, if any at all. It does look like you used silicone on the end rails on the new manifold, so that again when you put it back. The cork will usually hold up the manifold, and water leaks into the crankcase. The only thing I can imagine is that maybe the heads were not tight. Taking off heads can get water in cylinders, but certainly NOT all of them, and sure as hell not that much water. How hard was it to remove the head bolts?

Yes I used silicone in the reassembly and not the cork for that reason. The bolts were tight as snot!!!!

 

[Moparfiend]

Look at the manifold ports , a lot of rust stains there could water get to an intake port???Even with a little overlap ( intake and exhaust being open @ the same time) there is a lot of rust.... Could water have leaked from the water jackets behind that solid type gasket???

I see water stains in the intake manifold right in the plenum! I tried cleaning it BUT that's correct and it seemed to be on the passengers side only....could this be the smoking gun???

 

[Moparfiend]

Are those magnum heads???? If so that intake won't fit according to Edlebrock

View attachment 561021

Should be a stock 318

 

[JimKueneman]

I have looked hard, and it is real odd. Water in all cylinders?!?!? The heads are LA heads, and the manifold looks to fit the LA properly. Also, a hole in the timing cover will put water in the crankcase, and not into the cylinders. I see the cork end pieces, but that would only send water into the crankcase, not the cylinders. There is also no way I can see any water getting into ALL cylinders, if any at all. It does look like you used silicone on the end rails on the new manifold, so that again when you put it back. The cork will usually hold up the manifold, and water leaks into the crankcase. The only thing I can imagine is that maybe the heads were not tight. Taking off heads can get water in cylinders, but certainly NOT all of them, and sure as hell not that much water. How hard was it to remove the head bolts?

You are going to have to remover the motor, and have the rods checked for damage due to the hydro-locking. You usually can't see it easily with the naked eye, but we machine shops have an alignment fixture to check them. If you want to bring the motor down here, I can rebuild it for you. You wouldn't be the first from Phx, or from another state even.

I don't know, my 318 you built for me ran like crap until I plugged in all the plug wires..... I would have expected it to run with only 4 much better than it did......

 

[Kern Dog]

I drained the radiator before I did anything and also drained the oil pan which also had coolant in it (again before tear down). I did not however drain the engine (plugs on the side of the block) until I had everything apart. When I did pull them nothing came out....

I have found in some cases that pulling out the screw in drain plugs on the side of the block that nothing comes out....Because sediment had covered the back side of the hole. I've had to clear the blockage with a flat blade screwdriver to get the coolant to flow out.

 

[Moparfiend]

I have looked hard, and it is real odd. Water in all cylinders?!?!? The heads are LA heads, and the manifold looks to fit the LA properly. Also, a hole in the timing cover will put water in the crankcase, and not into the cylinders. I see the cork end pieces, but that would only send water into the crankcase, not the cylinders. There is also no way I can see any water getting into ALL cylinders, if any at all. It does look like you used silicone on the end rails on the new manifold, so that again when you put it back. The cork will usually hold up the manifold, and water leaks into the crankcase. The only thing I can imagine is that maybe the heads were not tight. Taking off heads can get water in cylinders, but certainly NOT all of them, and sure as hell not that much water. How hard was it to remove the head bolts?

You are going to have to remover the motor, and have the rods checked for damage due to the hydro-locking. You usually can't see it easily with the naked eye, but we machine shops have an alignment fixture to check them. If you want to bring the motor down here, I can rebuild it for you. You wouldn't be the first from Phx, or from another state even.

Hey 69bee, I decided today to pull the engine because as its going to be easier to look at and deal with (Jim you were right!!!!). I just spoke to the wife and she said she would help me pull the motor. Its the hood that I actually need her help with lol. I am having back surgery tomorrow so it will take a little a few days to pull it. It should be easy as I have taken just about everything off the darn engine. All I need to do is sling it and separate it from the trans and bingo. I am re-thinking my approach of just putting new gaskets on. Maybe a rebuild is the smart move.

 

[JimKueneman]

Hey 69bee, I decided today to pull the engine because as its going to be easier to look at and deal with (Jim you were right!!!!). I just spoke to the wife and she said she would help me pull the motor. Its the hood that I actually need her help with lol. I am having back surgery tomorrow so it will take a little a few days to pull it. It should be easy as I have taken just about everything off the darn engine. All I need to do is sling it and separate it from the trans and bingo. I am re-thinking my approach of just putting new gaskets on. Maybe a rebuild is the smart move.

Slippery Slope People say it will come out without the hood removed. You have done the hard part leaning over the fender. Short enough chain and it may just come out. The other option I have seen is you use some nylon tie downs to strap something on the top of the hood that you can hook your engine hoist to. That way you can hold it with the hoist, remove the bolts (put blankets between hood and the cowl/glass) and guide it off to the side.

When I am that deep I just want to get it done once, right, and be finished with it!

 

[Moparfiend]

I have found in some cases that pulling out the screw in drain plugs on the side of the block that nothing comes out....Because sediment had covered the back side of the hole. I've had to clear the blockage with a flat blade screwdriver to get the coolant to flow out.

I'll check that thanks!

 

[Moparfiend]

Slippery Slope People say it will come out without the hood removed. You have done the hard part leaning over the fender. Short enough chain and it may just come out. The other option I have seen is you use some nylon tie downs to strap something on the top of the hood that you can hook your engine hoist to. That way you can hold it with the hoist, remove the bolts (put blankets between hood and the cowl/glass) and guide it off to the side.

Jim your a master with that engine hoist lol I always have looked at it as an engine hoist but actually its a general purpose crane lol

 

[JimKueneman]

Hoping it does not rain Saturday (suppose to snow here, 3500ft snow level expected)..... well looks like only 10% now but still 27 Saturday night here! You can give mine a drive and see if you'll be happy with mildly upgraded 318.

 

[69Bee]

Look at the manifold ports , a lot of rust stains there could water get to an intake port???Even with a little overlap ( intake and exhaust being open @ the same time) there is a lot of rust.... Could water have leaked from the water jackets behind that solid type gasket???

In a word, no. The only place wet in the intake is across the front. Some water might get by the valves, but not that much in my opinion. I feel that that much water in all cylinders was caused by headbolts being loose. We could speculate all day long, but the motor needs to come out and apart to ascertain what is wrong, and to fix the problem.

 

[Moparfiend]

Hoping it does not rain Saturday (suppose to snow here, 3500ft snow level expected)..... well looks like only 10% now but still 27 Saturday night here! You can give mine a drive and see if you'll be happy with mildly upgraded 318.

Hi Jim that’s awfully gracious of you! If Saturday works for you the wife and I could come by for a short visit! I PM’d 69bee to discuss possibilities of a build.

 

[Fran Blacker]

In a word, no. The only place wet in the intake is across the front. Some water might get by the valves, but not that much in my opinion. I feel that that much water in all cylinders was caused by headbolts being loose. We could speculate all day long, but the motor needs to come out and apart to ascertain what is wrong, and to fix the problem.

Most or all lower head bolt holes are rusty, as you said loose? When he tried to start it sucked into cylinders? Think you nailed it.

 

[threewood]

Hoping it does not rain Saturday (suppose to snow here, 3500ft snow level expected)..... well looks like only 10% now but still 27 Saturday night here! You can give mine a drive and see if you'll be happy with mildly upgraded 318.

27!!!!!!! Holy Shamoley!!!!! It's 72 here in Yuma right now.

Hey 69bee, I decided today to pull the engine because as its going to be easier to look at and deal with (Jim you were right!!!!). I just spoke to the wife and she said she would help me pull the motor. Its the hood that I actually need her help with lol. I am having back surgery tomorrow so it will take a little a few days to pull it. It should be easy as I have taken just about everything off the darn engine. All I need to do is sling it and separate it from the trans and bingo. I am re-thinking my approach of just putting new gaskets on. Maybe a rebuild is the smart move.

If you need a hand on Saturday I should be up there for the car show. My GTX has already been in the rain so I know it won't melt lol. Hopefully we can meet at the show at the least.

And for the water, I'm guessing blown gasket on the two that poured and the others filled when the heads / intake were removed. Looks like rusty, stagnate water and could have come out after being stuck in the head with a rust plug. But a rebuild will be money well spent for a few decades of happy driving.