What did you do to your Mopar today?
- Thread starter MustangAndy
- Start date
98 SNAKE EATER
Well-Known Member
Installed a new trunk seal
Moparmatt72
Well-Known Member
Sonny Black
Well-Known Member
View attachment 178847View attachment 178848
project stupid fun got new shoes and 1/2 of it's 3" exhaustimp3:
Charlie, You might not believe this but Sonny love that car...I would wet sand and take a wheel and shine the shi! out of it, so you can see that virgil exner design!!! cool car!:eusa_think:
98 SNAKE EATER
Well-Known Member
I had sent my fuel pump out to Mallory for repairs and they sent it back with a brand new motor
Swapped out my temporary Quick Fuel pump and she's good to go again :cool:
It's nice to have a pressure gauge that doesn't flicker like crazy (QF pump doesn't have a bypass)
Swapped out my temporary Quick Fuel pump and she's good to go again :cool:
It's nice to have a pressure gauge that doesn't flicker like crazy (QF pump doesn't have a bypass)
Gpuller
Well-Known Member
WTF...I still see tread.
98 SNAKE EATER
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I usually don't start shopping for new ones until the old ones start sparking when they spin lol
bobtile
Well-Known Member
Gunna use them as snow tires!
1970GTX
Well-Known Member
Drove it. First outing of 2014. 16*C here today ( 62 F)
Superbee69er
Member
Got started on my rust repairs
BigBlock61
Well-Known Member
I spent all day cutting out spot welds in the Coronets floor. I really hate spot welds!!!!!!!
sixt4driver
Member
Dropped and cleaned the gas tank, new fuel sending unit, fuel filter, oil change, throttle springs.........took it around the block and the heartless b!$c# died on me. Had to tow her home. I think the pump is bad. She may be pissed that I haven't taken her out in a while. She will get all of my attention tomorrow!
TekHousE
Well-Known Member
Well my new dashboard circuit board arrived yesterday.
So today I pulled the gauge cluster out...Bit of a learning curve on my 67 Coronet. But went slowly and nothing broke. Note to anyone doing it. Disconnect the neg battery lead! OPEN the glovebox! to get the cluster out on the 67's (and I guess the 66's too) the ENTIRE fascia tilts out, from the glovebox side (right) to the far left! So removal of the radio buttons, heater/ac knobs all have to come off. The radio also has 2 securing nuts for each knob, that secure the radio to the fascia. Take them off too, otherwise you will find yourself trying to pull the radio out as well.
Some posts I have read say to drop the steering column right down to the seat..I did not need to. I loosened all the bolts, and it moved down maybe an inch or maybe 2 at most. Nearly forgot..DISCONNECT the Speedo FIRST!
The whole assembly just wanted to tilt forward, I had to lever a bit at the top as it comes out TOP first, there is a deep flange or lip on the lower edge, so tilt it out top first towards you. Once the top is clear, I found that once I loosened the wires at the top right, near the ALT and clock (delete clock in my case) and pulled the BULB housing and wire out on that side, I could then get in to pull the big round wiring plug from the circuit board. It was then free and I could take it inside and lay it on my dining table..much to my wifes delight..and swap the circuit board out! LOL
Getting it back in was easier than removal, now I knew all the steps. Lining up the radio knob posts was tricky by myself, but I managed it OK in the end.
Buttoned everything up, tightened the steering column, replaced the battery lead, fired up and went for a drive..All working! YAY! I now know how much gas I have..Or do I? Since as ALL people that have replacement fuel senders it maxes out at half full! Still light years ahead of NOTHING! ;)
So today I pulled the gauge cluster out...Bit of a learning curve on my 67 Coronet. But went slowly and nothing broke. Note to anyone doing it. Disconnect the neg battery lead! OPEN the glovebox! to get the cluster out on the 67's (and I guess the 66's too) the ENTIRE fascia tilts out, from the glovebox side (right) to the far left! So removal of the radio buttons, heater/ac knobs all have to come off. The radio also has 2 securing nuts for each knob, that secure the radio to the fascia. Take them off too, otherwise you will find yourself trying to pull the radio out as well.
Some posts I have read say to drop the steering column right down to the seat..I did not need to. I loosened all the bolts, and it moved down maybe an inch or maybe 2 at most. Nearly forgot..DISCONNECT the Speedo FIRST!
The whole assembly just wanted to tilt forward, I had to lever a bit at the top as it comes out TOP first, there is a deep flange or lip on the lower edge, so tilt it out top first towards you. Once the top is clear, I found that once I loosened the wires at the top right, near the ALT and clock (delete clock in my case) and pulled the BULB housing and wire out on that side, I could then get in to pull the big round wiring plug from the circuit board. It was then free and I could take it inside and lay it on my dining table..much to my wifes delight..and swap the circuit board out! LOL
Getting it back in was easier than removal, now I knew all the steps. Lining up the radio knob posts was tricky by myself, but I managed it OK in the end.
Buttoned everything up, tightened the steering column, replaced the battery lead, fired up and went for a drive..All working! YAY! I now know how much gas I have..Or do I? Since as ALL people that have replacement fuel senders it maxes out at half full! Still light years ahead of NOTHING! ;)
Mr Belvedere 30144
Well-Known Member
Installed new plugs NGK 3332 and some Accell superstock plug wires (most expensive wires I ever bought ). Adjusted the Lokar kickdown cable. Installed new choke on center carb. waxed and detailed entire car. Changed oil and filter, Valvoline V2 20-50
K&N HP 1003 filter. Got the casting numbers off the block and heads. 346 heads. March 27th 1976 block 6T 440 E.
K&N HP 1003 filter. Got the casting numbers off the block and heads. 346 heads. March 27th 1976 block 6T 440 E.
72Fourspeed
Well-Known Member
New plugs and new Edelbrock 750.Wouldn't pull off idle with 2 different used Eddy's. New one works great, next up is electric choke conversion. Happy now that it's running right.
charliesharp
Well-Known Member
Thank you Sonny! paint work maybe some time before that happens. Going to finish getting it running and then drive the tires off of it
- - - Updated - - -
finished exhaust :tongue:
98 SNAKE EATER
Well-Known Member
I've been trying to work out a bog off the line, so I stopped off at BLP to see if one of their adjustable secondary rods would fit my KD, but the ones they had were either too long or too short
Installed the short one and the secondaries open up with slightly more throttle (50% maybe) and that's with the end link just barely holding on with a few threads (kind scary)
Thing is, since it's not long enough to reach the bottom hole on the primary plate, the secondaries won't open 100% at WOT
Thing is, since it's over carbed to begin with, I don't mind the secondaries not opening fully :eusa_think:
Took her out for a spin last night and it made a HUGE difference!! :headbang:
The bog is virtually gone and I'm sure I'll be able to get rid of it completely with a little more adjustment :cool:
All this time I've been d!cking around with pumps and shooters and the real problem was simply too much air too fast :icon_confused:
Already picked up a few more end links from BLP to play around with as well as a stainless threaded rod from Ace
If all goes well, I'll be calling out that modded Coyote Mustang that put a car on me last weekend
Installed the short one and the secondaries open up with slightly more throttle (50% maybe) and that's with the end link just barely holding on with a few threads (kind scary)
Thing is, since it's not long enough to reach the bottom hole on the primary plate, the secondaries won't open 100% at WOT
Thing is, since it's over carbed to begin with, I don't mind the secondaries not opening fully :eusa_think:
Took her out for a spin last night and it made a HUGE difference!! :headbang:
The bog is virtually gone and I'm sure I'll be able to get rid of it completely with a little more adjustment :cool:
All this time I've been d!cking around with pumps and shooters and the real problem was simply too much air too fast :icon_confused:
Already picked up a few more end links from BLP to play around with as well as a stainless threaded rod from Ace
If all goes well, I'll be calling out that modded Coyote Mustang that put a car on me last weekend
Coronet 14
Well-Known Member
Basket case
Well-Known Member
Cletus
Well-Known Member
Tore out a gunky, leaking fuel tank:
No wonder I had to change two fuel filters and the pump...
Fuel source is a loose boat tank in the trunk for the time being... gonna take her to the shop and replace the trunk floor and rear quarter panel - felt kinda unnecessary to install a brand spanking tank just to take it down in a couple of weeks.
Oh, and removed the '69 grille and headlight becels. She's got her original grin back! Well, maybe I happened to road-runnerize the grille a bit when restoring it... looks kinda nice with that gun metal (ninja edit - read: dark argent) accent imo.
No wonder I had to change two fuel filters and the pump...
Fuel source is a loose boat tank in the trunk for the time being... gonna take her to the shop and replace the trunk floor and rear quarter panel - felt kinda unnecessary to install a brand spanking tank just to take it down in a couple of weeks.
Oh, and removed the '69 grille and headlight becels. She's got her original grin back! Well, maybe I happened to road-runnerize the grille a bit when restoring it... looks kinda nice with that gun metal (ninja edit - read: dark argent) accent imo.
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