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What did you do to your Mopar today?

I just took it apart, one fitting at a time, and blasted the hell out of it with brakleen.

There's really not much to them.

One fitting has a spring under it and the other has something i couldn't get out, so I just blasted it.

It worked just fine before. I was really only trying to get all the DOT3 fluid out.
 
Yup...after a 12 hour work day, that's all I managed myself!
But tomorrow morning I'm tackling my new kickdown cable. ....!

Jeff

Ok...heading to the garage to start my kickdown project. ....
I'll let you all know how it goes!

Jeff
 
Added a Bosch retro tach because my tic-toc-tach is reading incorrectly. Will eventually have it calibrated.
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Drove 50 miles to the upholstery shop. He figgered out how to attach my broken garnish moulding clips and installed all the rest of the moldings. He put in the new package tray and seat divider. He also installed my rear quarter window fuzzies and worked on the rain gutter trim. He also installed my re-covered sun visors . The all new headliner had been installed a couple weeks ago. He does excellent work and I am very happy with it. I sat in the shade with a fan on me and drank cold water as I watched !!.................................MO

I need a new headliner. Did your guy install yours with the windshield and back window in place or were they removed?
 
Took it to a local car show/swap meet.
Found a set of TTI 1 7/8" headers for $400cdn and just enjoyed the day...
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changing insurance
needed an apprai$al, which i got, today.
 
Took her to work, and she was happy to exercise the fact that while there are speed limits, there are no acceleration limits.
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Thanks to members idrivemopar and wcwilliam for helping me in my "Need pic..." thread

I got almost all of the brake system back together save the front calipers and soft lines.
Would have got them but decided on another coat of paint.

It's not quite as pretty as OEM, but it's close.

I made a tool to get brakeleen through the lines and vacuum out the residue.

I was not able to get the pass side line just like the factory, but I got it to where it doesn't rub and looks passable.

All in all I am pleased with the "Right Stuff" stainless line set, but just like their trans lines some bends are not quite factory, but appear to be concessions for ease of installation.

I also found that you can get the rear wheel cylinders out if you remove only the "easiest" spring (the one without the self adjuster) on each side and remove one of the actuator pins. That gives you just enough room to roll and wiggle the cylinder out and save quite a bit of time and potential frustration.
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Installed clamps for the fabbed trans lines, installed radiator, measured and cut radiator hoses, measuring and configuring hoses and ends for the hydra-boost unit.
 
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I seem to come across some real loser project cars that I cannot resist.
Since 2007, I have fixed up and sold several A body cars. The CA cars are less likely to have rust so they are a good starting point. I used to have great luck finding little parts at the local self serve yards but these A body cars have really thinned out! The Pick N Pull yards have an online inventory to check but it isn't always accurate. You have to be there early every day to be first on the scene. A 73-76 Disc or 8.25 axle car gets stripped out real quick. It is to the point where you have to buy whole cars now to get a few needed parts.
I've replaced fenders, doors, quarter panels, etc. Most of these projects are only profitable because I do almost all of the work myself using good, used stuff. I built a small stockpile of sheet metal when stuff was easier to find.
I've had great luck with used engines, transmissions, etc. Almost every car had a thrashed interior. Only one car I sold had an interior good enough to leave alone.
My current project is a 73 Dart Sport 340 in TX9 black. The car came to me with no engine or trans. The K member was modified to fit a 440. I slipped in a low mile 360 but recently found a '73 340 that would be date code correct. I'm tempted to use the 340 but this 360 runs so well!
The car is the last of the 340 models. Cast crank, lowered compression but still a potent car for its time. Disc brakes, Black on black, 14" rallye wheels. I'm hoping to have it finished to sell in a couple of months.
 
When I lived/traveled in The LA to Detroit areas, I used to go the yards 2-3 times a week.I made sure I was always in line in the a.m. I still have some trim parts I pulled in the early 80's. You couldn't buy whole cars back then. I pulled many 6bbl shortblocks outta Chrysler wagons. The rest of the engine got left laying on the ground, as I didn't want to pay for the common stuff. I bought lots of mopars, then drove them back to Mi. I'd always have 2 purchased, and fly back to get the next one. That was pre transport-company days, and I moved a bunch of cars over the years. It was a great setup, and I made lots of cash. People were waiting to see what I brought back from the left-coast. There was only one of all the cars I wish I'd kept. It was a twin to the Bullitt Charger. Whitewalls, wheelcovers, and loaded.
 
Installed a SS return line and fuel vapor separator. Had to cut the new line in two to route the front section under the frame connector and through the frame along side the fuel line. I guess the previous owner installed the fuel line before he installed the frame connectors.
 
Installed my new fan shroud. Test run tomorrow to see if it solves my idling cooling issue. New radiator keeps it at 185-190 when I'm moving but still shoots up to 210 when sitting in traffic. Before the new radiator it would have a hard time getting back to 210 after sitting in traffic, where the new one gets it back to 185-190 as soon as I'm moving. Hoping the shroud keeps it lower while idling.

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Installed my new fan shroud. Test run tomorrow to see if it solves my idling cooling issue. New radiator keeps it at 185-190 when I'm moving but still shoots up to 210 when sitting in traffic. Before the new radiator it would have a hard time getting back to 210 after sitting in traffic, where the new one gets it back to 185-190 as soon as I'm moving. Hoping the shroud keeps it lower while idling.

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Nice, please let us know how it works out. I have a 65 Coronet without a fan shroud and what is probably the original radiator. It's not quite on the road yet, but I'm concerned about it keeping cool also.
 
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