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What did you do to your Mopar today?

I just finished reinstalling the weight adding, horsepower robbing, cast iron chemical pumper.

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I used to be a big fan of Uniroyal Tiger Paws.

Around 2013, I bought a "set" of 225 14 and 225 15 and the 14s belts separated in under 1.25 years.

Those were the 15s and they have been in storage for the past 2 years making them 3.25 years old.

It wasn't the side wall, it was the tread.

They also have less than 6500 miles on them!

At the same time I bought those RWL tires I also bought a used set of two 14" whitewalls.

Those used tires are still good!

This time I went with cooper Cobra.

We'll see.

I think either the rubber refining or the belt bonding process has been cheapened.

I've had a few other relatively new tires belts separate sitting in storage, while much older ones do better.
 
Today I changed all my sparkplugs, installed new MSD pug wires, checked under my MSD distributor rotor, which was one of the few things i didn't set up on my motor, to find the light silver and light blue advance springs and factory blue stop for 21* advance all in by 2500. Good to know as I'm about to use my homemade piston stop to find TDC as soon as i get the time. Why didn't I do it while I was changing my sparkplugs and wires you ask? Cuz I did it on my half hour for lunch is why!
 
Yep.

Getting my A/C back up is rapidly climbing to the top of my to do list.
 
I unbolted the starter and pulled it forward enough to rotate it so I could get a socket on the two nuts holding the wires to the starter.

I also had to use a 5/8" wrench and a ratcheting wrench for the 5/8 starter bolt on top.
Did you make your own positive batt cable or get a stock replacement? And if stock, where'd you get it from?
 
Got the new lump installed today. 496, 8" PTC, ProTrans.

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It's an obsolete Hogan/Barton design. Good enough for a pump-gas motor, for screwing around with.
 
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Removed my heater box yesterday and made some block off plates with stuff I had in garage. . . I think looks pretty cool
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Fighting with the engine install. Changed some small things, that are making life a major PITA!!! GRRR! Overall, Wed-today has sucked.
 
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Vacuumed a lot of water out of the Commander after a sunroof drain clogged again. Also took the winter tires off the Neon. Started the Charger for the first time in weeks and watched it while it got good and hot so I could once and for all locate a pesky coolant leak. Of course, this time it didn't leak a drop. Realized my almost new 440 Source aluminum water pump is screeching, so I cleaned and painted an iron one.
 
Got matching wheels and tires on the front.
Scored these center cap at a local thrift sore.
They were better than any of the ones I had.
It was 1/2 off sale day. $5 for the pair.
Replaced PS input shaft seat.
FSM says remove column and steering box and use special tools.
I did it removing only the "puck". I hope the seal is seated fully.
Drilled a hole with a 3/32 bit and used a #6 screw and long curved needle nose to pry out old seal.
Used socket and several wrenches to install.
We shall see.
Also used grade 8 bolts instead of counter sunk phillips screws.
I finally found the reason these were used- one of the four interferes with the roll pin on the splined connector.
A few more hours of engineering could have avoided this.
My choice was- use only one countersunk screw, but since the nut (only one non-locking nut) tightened without a wrench on the bolt head, I opted to go that way, and use a jamb nut.
Tested A/C by jumping 12v to compressor- blew hot. Dang.
Guess I'll go see my friend that own a "real" repair
shop and has A/C service equip.

Turned over 60,500 miles.
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Drove it to work today for the first time since November! Was able to test out the new stereo and heater. All good:thumbsup:
 
Finally finished installing the Bilstein rear shocks after RCD mailed me the correct bushings.

Installed new j bolts for the fuel tank straps. The manual says torque to 50 in/lbs but they never got that tight before I was afraid of breaking something. I assume it is because aftermarket stainless steel straps are more twisty than oem straps.
 
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