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What did you do to your Mopar today?

Working on the set up and installation of a home fabricated fresh air induction on Brutus, the 64 Dodge. Air comes in the inside headlight buckets , along the outside of the inner fenders and through the inner fenders where it will hook up to flexible ducting and then to the dual snorkle air cleaner. ............................MO
I got it cobbled together so I can go cruising Memorial day. Being the weekend, I ran out of hose clamps and a 4" to 3" adapter. Therefor the " gorilla duct tape.!!. Later, I will get some better hose and tidy things up a bit. .................................MO

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I stripped the paint off the tail panel and had the anodizing stripped. Then I had it polished and just got it back from the powder coater. I also had him coat my Weiand 8009 intake.

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Finished putting the interior back in the roadrunner, new door mirror, new tail-lite lenses.

Removed the shock lower bolts, and upper control-arm bumpers outta the WO-car....unbolted the k-frame, and reinstalled the 1" spacers/blocks between the k-frame and frame rails....while the whole car was still together. It went very smooth.
 
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Finished putting the interior back in the roadrunner, new door mirror, new tail-lite lenses.

Removed the shock lower bolts, and upper control-arm bumpers outta the WO-car....unbolted the k-frame, and reinstalled the 1" spacers/blocks between the k-frame and frame rails....while the whole car was still together. It went very smooth.
Was this to raise the front end of the car? Do you have a pic of the spacers? bought or home fabricated? ...........................MO
 
We made them on my friend's mill. 7075 aluminum. They were originally made for oil-pan clearance. I needed to put them back in, as we modified the headers to fit the lowered engine[carb to hood-scoop clearance], and keep the headers tight. Without the blocks, we would have had to redo the headers. Ah....NO. Of course, I had the car all assembled... when I realized this. Hope to install the headers tomorrow.
 
Finally got a little time to put some of the parts on. As I started to put the driver's side LCA on I discovered the nut won't go all the way on. I discovered the pivot shaft threads were messed up and part of the thread area was bent.

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I replaced it with one of my cars originals. I checked the drivers side and noticed that it already had an original pivot shaft. I also noticed that the rubber bushing in the passenger side had a slight tear and was already worn badly.

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Since I had already bought all new bushings and boots for rebuilding my original front components, I pulled both shafts and rubber bushings and put in the poly bushings and the original pivot shafts.

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So I got the LCA and strut rod loosely on. You can see the original gold color in this next pic.

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I removed the original torsion bar, cleaned out as much of the old grease that I could and started putting in the Hotchkis 1" torsion bar. Problem is I can't get the boot over the end of torsion bar.
Anyone have any advise, tricks or wisdom on getting the boot over the end?
 
Finished putting it back together in time for Fleetwood. Going to Barrie for a swap meet, then London for the Fleetwood car show.
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T bar boots-

get a series of increasing size sockets and stretch the boots over each one.

Eventually they will be stretched enough to go over the bar ends.
 
Jury is still out, it's a bit tighter than I hoped. It does drive well though, prob put 50 miles on it today.

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Mines a bit looser than I'd like it to be. Gotta manually shift it, to keep it from starting in 2nd or 3rd. We detail washed my runner today, and found more little bullshit problems to be addressed. One good thing....the gas-gauge is accurate. I don't believe it. Now I need a new steering wheel. The old one looks good, but is really whipped-out internally. I could kill the ******** who assembled this car. It'll be perfect, in some time.....and I'll be much more broke.
 
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I just got thru mounting my whiz-bang radiator in the WO. Now I have to build the 20AN hoses. After that, I get to take it all-apart to coat the mounting brackets... and remove all the 2" tape I used to protect the paint, before final install. Oh boy!! This is fun......
 
Ordered acorn nuts for $2 each for my tail light finish panel. RT Specialties is the only place I could find them. Shipping choices started at $13 for US Mail. Ouch!
 
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I hurt the 383 in my 69' Dart GT the other morning. It's definitely not happy and making a hell of noise, but still had 85 psi of oil pressure.

Stroker 400 to 512 here I come!!
 
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