themechanic
Oklahoma is OK
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Ha! You could end up like that lady with a coyote stuck on the front of your car.
What did you do to your Mopar today?
- Thread starter MustangAndy
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Made it breathe.....
1967coronet440
Well-Known Member
Dressed up the 535" with a billet crank pulley, polished pump and housing and billet water neck. Need a shim kit for the crank pulley, alignment is a little off.
BBishere2
Well-Known Member
Replaced the Megashifter in the '65 with a ProRatchet - wasn't sure how I'd like it - but it's really nice - shifts are positive and sure - I'm happy with it!
Paul Boucher
Well-Known Member
Polished my new wheel well lip moldings.
Sunday drive
2 jet sizes up, bingo!
2 jet sizes up, bingo!
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Sunday drive
2 jet sizes up, bingo!
Sounds good! Looks like the Quaker State, my kind of roads!
Sunday drive
2 jet sizes up, bingo!
What no dead deer in the road. When to a NeHOA meet in the 90's had my kids counting deer. Saw 16 of them 8 alive and 8 dead.
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Finally figured out how to redesign the rear of the car so that it would solve several problems. 1. provide solid secure mounting for the tail light. 2.Have the mounting screws easy to get to. 3. Get the trunk lip base up enough to clear the top edge of the tail light assembly AND be part of the mounting surface for the tail lights too. 4. clean up both trunk seal extensions to get the factory built up triple thickness....without the factory built up triple thickness. 5. meld all these elements together in a pleasing coherent way. 6. Have the finished section fit BELOW the trunk lids closed position and leave room for the rubber seal as well. What a PITA!! Wish I had a computer program that would make this 3D and so I could manipulate the picture across all axis's to see what to do.
So here is what I came up with. I was sitting on my rolling chair base staring at the parts and brainstorming when my buddy Rick drove by and honked. He slid to a stop and backed up into the driveway and stood behind me. What's wrong ? he says. I explained the issues. We BOTH stared at it for another 10 minutes until he says, " well why don't you do this...." He came up with the solution that quick and it was something I had not thought of, at all. Go in from the top, instead of the side where the screw holes already existed. Easy.
I ended up not doing that. BUT!! It led me to another idea that did work!
So I bent up some scrap 18 gauge as a base for the torn up trunk extension lips that also attached to the current tail light mounting screw holes and to the rest of the mounting base, to the left and right towards the trunk drop offs. It was simple really....just made the pieces to fit and plug welded them together from the bottom side. Done.
That left the top finished surface to work out, where it meets the old trunk rail and the rail corners. That surface had to extend to the rear out over the tail light base/lens/trim area to protect it from being hit by anything and cracking a lens and also be a flat straight clean surface. I took the old trunk lip and cut the spot welded layers off of the back of it, 2 each, that brought the thickness down to meet the 20 gauge of the finished surface. However, that also made the piece flimsy which is why the factory made it three layers, with two layers at a right angle to the one. Stiffness. So I still needed three layers somehow. The only problem was they had to exist BELOW the finished surface of the final top layer or the trunk lid would smack it when closed because it would be too high.
So I thought about incorporating all three layers in the existing parts and not adding three more to what I already had.
Once I pealed back the top layer and got a look from the side of all three, it was clear that they all had to be joined in such a way that left the tail lights able to be easily removed. I cut a few templates out of pizza box cardboard and made the pieces out of 20 and 18 gauge and fiddled around getting everything just right. I clamped it up and studied it for awhile and saw where it needed tweaking to be perfect.
I closed up the garage and left it that way overnight to see if it still worked for me in the morning. Here's the pics.
In one I circled the existing sideway facing mounting screw holes that face into the trunk. In another I put spots where I plug welded and where I intend to join the other parts together.
So here is what I came up with. I was sitting on my rolling chair base staring at the parts and brainstorming when my buddy Rick drove by and honked. He slid to a stop and backed up into the driveway and stood behind me. What's wrong ? he says. I explained the issues. We BOTH stared at it for another 10 minutes until he says, " well why don't you do this...." He came up with the solution that quick and it was something I had not thought of, at all. Go in from the top, instead of the side where the screw holes already existed. Easy.
I ended up not doing that. BUT!! It led me to another idea that did work!
So I bent up some scrap 18 gauge as a base for the torn up trunk extension lips that also attached to the current tail light mounting screw holes and to the rest of the mounting base, to the left and right towards the trunk drop offs. It was simple really....just made the pieces to fit and plug welded them together from the bottom side. Done.
That left the top finished surface to work out, where it meets the old trunk rail and the rail corners. That surface had to extend to the rear out over the tail light base/lens/trim area to protect it from being hit by anything and cracking a lens and also be a flat straight clean surface. I took the old trunk lip and cut the spot welded layers off of the back of it, 2 each, that brought the thickness down to meet the 20 gauge of the finished surface. However, that also made the piece flimsy which is why the factory made it three layers, with two layers at a right angle to the one. Stiffness. So I still needed three layers somehow. The only problem was they had to exist BELOW the finished surface of the final top layer or the trunk lid would smack it when closed because it would be too high.
So I thought about incorporating all three layers in the existing parts and not adding three more to what I already had.
Once I pealed back the top layer and got a look from the side of all three, it was clear that they all had to be joined in such a way that left the tail lights able to be easily removed. I cut a few templates out of pizza box cardboard and made the pieces out of 20 and 18 gauge and fiddled around getting everything just right. I clamped it up and studied it for awhile and saw where it needed tweaking to be perfect.
I closed up the garage and left it that way overnight to see if it still worked for me in the morning. Here's the pics.
In one I circled the existing sideway facing mounting screw holes that face into the trunk. In another I put spots where I plug welded and where I intend to join the other parts together.
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The server wont let me post up the pics.
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Apparently the photos it wont let me post are the ones I drew lines on.
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In the first pic you can see the three layers. The bottom and middle layers are plug welded together and the inside edge, in the trunk, rolls up behind the trunk seal lip. The other pics show how the final piece will look over the lights. The brown cardboard piece is a template for a side wall piece to strengthen it up in that area.
The remaining decision to be made is how to fasten the top layer, other than butt welding the rail to it.
Plug all the way through from the bottom?
The remaining decision to be made is how to fasten the top layer, other than butt welding the rail to it.
Plug all the way through from the bottom?
Last edited:
POMONAMISSEL
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just dropped off a 440 wedge we're building for a street car , kb pistons , scat rod , standard forged steel crank , standard bore 440 hd block , after this shop , to the balancer's shop for the rotating mass to be static n dynamic balanced . but it seems that the new server will not allow pics to post . what a bummer ! trying in editing to attach them . still no . this sucks !
POMONAMISSEL
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oh ya , steath heads , custom ground roller cam and h/s roller rockers . and more to come , lol ;)
new air cleaner will be here tomarow .... orderd the new wheel covers with the knock offs today .... still in the box thay came in in the trunk when the car was new in 66. good ol CL ....
drove her home today .... holy hell ... them gears woke her the hell up. yeeeee-hawwwww
themechanic
Oklahoma is OK
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Got my Coronet R/T back from the paint shop prison. They quoted 2 weeks but it took them 3 months to paint the new hood, scoops, fenders and blend the doors. Mostly because pf their screw ups dragging the job out longer by having to redo things several times.
Now I have to clean the clear over spray and buffing compound mess they left in my formerly pretty engine bay. They also ruined my new battery cables by chewing up the connections with their jump starter.
For the record, if you are in Oklahoma avoid ECL Body Shop like the plague.
Lesson learned.
Now I have to clean the clear over spray and buffing compound mess they left in my formerly pretty engine bay. They also ruined my new battery cables by chewing up the connections with their jump starter.
For the record, if you are in Oklahoma avoid ECL Body Shop like the plague.
Lesson learned.
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