What did you do to your Mopar today?

[Brandy]

Can't be all bad, brother - you're still on the better side of dirt, after all.

Agree, just joking. The garage has been a work in progress and will likely change yet again as time goes by and I get a "wild hair" ...I just need to fight the urge to save every damn thing "Because I will use it someday".....just yesterday I needed something I had just thrown out...lol...

 

[Brandy]

welded the new floor pans in on the road runner

 

[71charger_fan]

took a few minutes this morning to fit the plastic draft blocker to the passenger side. Relearned a lesson about the accuracy of a "copy of a copy" though. Fortunately, it's a part that may never be seen again after the interior gets put back together.

 

[themechanic]

I installed a new disc/disc master cylinder and combination valve. Need advice how to get SS brake lines to seal.

 

[Brandy]

Picked up and mocked into place the full length trunk close out panel. It's a thing of beauty....70" long.

 

[themechanic]

Ordered front to rear SS brake line and universal prop valve for the rear brake.

 

[hemi*guy]

Not much ...just cleaned it and let it run a bit!

 

[LAXmoparman]

Installed lower a arms, and dynamic strut bars. Spindles and discs next. Does it look right?? Lol

 

[71charger_fan]

Installed lower a arms, and dynamic strut bars. Spindles and discs next. Does it look right?? Lol

View attachment 867438 View attachment 867439

I have those same strut rods and lower control arms. My only criticism is the groan under braking from having no bushings on the strut rods. I had the earlier version of the upper control arms and didn't like them so I switched them for Hotchkis.

 

[BDF6]

Installed lower a arms, and dynamic strut bars. Spindles and discs next. Does it look right?? Lol

View attachment 867438 View attachment 867439

Need more vise grips
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I changed out the carburetor, some fuel lines & fuel filter.
The latter being why I changed the other stuff.
Swapped the 780 QF for a 800 AVS2 and must say that I am QUITE pleased with the change. My calibration kit (ordered at same time) will not be here for 2 more weeks so I'll try to put some (s)miles on it & see which way I want to go with it, if anything.
The throttle response is excellent- no hesitation or lag out of the box. I'm liking that a lot.

 

[dadsbee]

Spent a few hours cleaning the oil and belt dressing mess off my inner wheel wells on the Bird after it's 500 mile run down South. Turns out I'm gonna just throw all my cleaning products away and use my bottle of Coleman camp stove fuel (Naptha) from here on out. Only thing that doesn't just smear grease around.

Then I just sat on my new bar stools with a beer, stared at the cars and watched NASCAR on the tube. Okay, there was more than A beer...

 

[LAXmoparman]

I have those same strut rods and lower control arms. My only criticism is the groan under braking from having no bushings on the strut rods. I had the earlier version of the upper control arms and didn't like them so I switched them for Hotchkis.
View attachment 867462

Did the older models that you
Had have grease fittings? Only reason I ask is I have heard other people say they are kinda squeaky and didn’t know if they had addressed that issue with the new ones?

 

[70chall440]

Continued to fix the rust on my 70 RR

 

[71charger_fan]

Did the older models that you
Had have grease fittings? Only reason I ask is I have heard other people say they are kinda squeaky and didn’t know if they had addressed that issue with the new ones?

The older ones did not have grease fittings. They didn't squeak and I didn't put enough miles on them to develop any squeaks. The ride is marginally harsher without bushings. I honestly believe that CAP (I bought mine before they sold to QA1) may have mis-marked my upper control arms relative to right/left. Mine never even came close to contacting the rubber bump stops.

 

[Durandal25]

.....I called a priest...lol

 

[biomedtechguy]

View attachment 867656
The older ones did not have grease fittings. They didn't squeak and I didn't put enough miles on them to develop any squeaks. The ride is marginally harsher without bushings. I honestly believe that CAP (I bought mine before they sold to QA1) may have mis-marked my upper control arms relative to right/left. Mine never even came close to contacting the rubber bump stops.

Those Hotchkis UCAs were very tempting. Everything I have owned for a year, that I've finally got enough time and money to install, a complete QA1 K-member and front suspension system, the only exception is the SPC UCAs. I know that I won't hear something I've heard too many times "not enough adjustability" in the factory UCAs with these:

If for any reason I decide to replace these UCAs, Hotchkis is the only other ones I would consider.

 

[68Moparmaniac]

Bit the bullet today and ordered this 1000cfm EFI system for the Charger.

 

[themechanic]

I installed the front to rear brake line. All other lines were SS and new when I bought the car except this one. ????

 

[biomedtechguy]

I installed the front to rear brake line. All other lines were SS and new when I bought the car except this one. ????

We discussed me getting all new stainless brake lines, and I'm ok with that, but I don't know what I have.
Can you test for stainless steel brake lines with a magnet? Usually a magnet won't stick to stainless steel. Or how else can I tell? Markings? What and where?

 

[themechanic]

We discussed me getting all new stainless brake lines, and I'm ok with that, but I don't know what I have.
Can you test for stainless steel brake lines with a magnet? Usually a magnet won't stick to stainless steel. Or how else can I tell? Markings? What and where?

Buff it with some steel wool. SS should be more shiny.


https://www.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_tell_the_difference_between_stainless_steel_and_carbon_steel

There are a few different ways to tell the difference between steels. There are a few different types of Stainless steel so some tests work better than others. The 300 series stainless steel contains Chromium and Nickel which makes this steel non-magnetic but the 400 series steel contains just chromium which makes this type magnetic, so first test is if a magnet does not stick to it then it is stainless steel. If a magnet does however stick to it is does not mean that is is high carbon steel, so proceed to the next test. Examine the steel, does it seem to have any rust on it, any red oxidation of the metal which indicated a higher iron content which is found mainly in carbon steels, stainless steel will NOT rust in this way, so if you don't mind putting it to the test try putting a blot of water on it and leaving it over night, if red rust occurs it is carbon steel, if not you have stainless.