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What did you do to your Mopar today?

Went and got our '64 Belvedere out of storage. It hadn't run in 2 years and it started in 5 seconds. No kidding. It was like I just parked it yesterday. That car has always been that way. Starts right up after sitting for 8 months (or 2 years in this case) and runs like a top. It just purred right along for the 30 minute drive home.

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Took mine out of long term slumber, realized I how much I really missed it
 
I went to the local Show & Shine and hung out with some car guys....small show, maybe 3 dozen cars but it was fun...
Now I'm gonna take care of some small electrical issues - grounds.
Easy fun stuff!

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Jeff
 
Took part in a local show today. Approx 75 cars. Only 1 dodge, mine, and 1 plymouth. I did get a top 25 plague :)

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It's been almost a month since I inherited the '69 Roadrunner from my uncle and I've been enjoying it a lot. This morning I took some pictures in the driveway, filled it with gas, and then went for a nice ride. I had it up on the alignment rack at work a few days ago and found a worn bushing on the passenger upper control arm so I went ahead and ordered new bushings for both sides.

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Yesterday I replaced plugs then I tuned the Edelbrock. After a few spring swaps the Plymouth is running great.
Today we took it to sons house, picked up the grandson and went for a round of golf.
Had a great time. Plymouth is running awesome
 
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The car had over heated idling a couple of times in the last 2 weeks so I checked the thermostat as I didn't know what exactly was in it. Boiled it and it only opened 1/8" so changed it for a high flow one. Ran much cooler on the road so I thought it was fixed BUT still got too hot idling in driveway after 20 minutes. Dang it!
Fan clutch seemed 'iffy'-swapped that too...
Checked TIMING today and boy was it retarded (like me for not checking first, but the new thermostat not solving it put me off my game. Dang it!)
Problem seems to be solved.
I flushed the radiator as well and it will have brand new coolant/distilled water so I hope to be good to go now.
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It only took about an hour to change clutch and I didn't mangle the cardboard shield much.
The strange thing was the struggle I had getting the thing out and while dreading the replacment of it it just fell down in there.
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Checked TIMING today and boy was it retarded (like me for not checking first, but the new thermostat not solving it put me off my game. Dang it!)
Problem seems to be solved.
I flushed the radiator as well and it will have brand new coolant/distilled water so I hope to be good to go now.
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It only took about an hour to change clutch and I didn't mangle the cardboard shield much.
The strange thing was the struggle I had getting the thing out and while dreading the replacment of it it just fell down in there.View attachment 989903
I'm curious as to what your initial timing was set at and where you wound up.
 
I'm curious as to what your initial timing was set at and where you wound up.
Well, I'm ashamed to say I can't hardly read the #'s on dampener but I'd guess about 7-10* AFTER TDC when I checked it initially. Yes, AFTER! The wrong side of the tab so I knew I found the reason immediately. I had checked the distributor and it was tight so I couldn't turn it by hand and I hadn't gotten on it since (sticky linkage clearance FIXED)
But here's the story:
Not long ago I stomped on the go-pedal and it went to the floor & didn't come up! I thought What The ____ & turned it off, coasted to a stop (eventually)(and BTW it NEVER stops pulling which to put it mildly was very exciting- in a bad way. I was well in to 3rd when I attempted to let off...)
Just before it died it 'rattled' a bit. I thought I'd blown it up but bonked the kickdown lever & shifted the air cleaner housing a litte bit and it fired right up w/o any effort or hideous noises, smoke and/or etc.
So I suspect that incident adjusted the timing for me.
Like I said, I checked the dist. and it was very tight and I had only been puttering around in it a few times since with a little longer to fire up the only symptom. It seemed to cruise around just like before so I did not notice a big performance issue until I got stuck in traffic at that accident 2-3 weeks ago. Anyway, sorry for the long blabfest, the short answer is initially it was 7-10 ATDC and now is approximately 14-16 BTDC which is a little to much as it wants to ping a bit. I'll pull a little out and get it dialed back in.
I don't remember what the total is at what RPM. I'm still
looking through my paperwork to find that info.
IIRC it is 14* @ 700 RPM and 34-36 all in at around 3500 or lower?
I do not run a vacuum advance right now (it is MSD, the builder changed the springs in it to ?) but want one and have a FireCore RT, coil & wires on the shelf.
 
The new fuel sending unit came today. Hopefully to fix the intermittent gas gauge issue. Do I have to install to consider. "What did you do today?" success? Lol.
 
Took low ohm MSD Blaster II coil and replaced with stock NOS coil. Read a thread low ohm coils with Chrysler ECU's aren't the best combination.
 
The short answer is initially it was 7-10 ATDC and now is approximately 14-16 BTDC which is a little to much as it wants to ping a bit. I'll pull a little out and get it dialed back in.
I don't remember what the total is at what RPM. I'm still
looking through my paperwork to find that info.
IIRC it is 14* @ 700 RPM and 34-36 all in at around 3500 or lower?
I do not run a vacuum advance right now (it is MSD, the builder changed the springs in it to ?) but want one and have a FireCore RT, coil & wires on the shelf.
Glad to hear your engine's OK. The 14° initial doesn't seem too aggressive depending upon your cam. I'm running a 236° hyd FT cam and the motor likes 19° BTDC. When I initially installed the Pertronix distributor I used the light springs which gave another 20° and it pinged. Changed the springs to get it down to 34° and runs great now. 3500 rpm seems high for all-in; I don't remember exactly but I think I'm all-in by 2400.
You drive your car a lot so vacuum advance would really benefit at part throttle cruise when vacuum is high and low load.
 
Installed QA1 upper control arms in the '69 Roadrunner this morning. I had tried to do an alignment on the car last week but the passenger side upper had a loose bushing. The car already has a few suspension upgrades so I figured what the heck, I'll try a set of tubular control arms. I got them installed this morning before work, drove it to work, put it up on the alignment rack toward the end of the day ,and adjusted it. Camber is now .2 degrees both sides, caster is 4.4 degrees driver side and 4.7 degrees passenger side, and toe-in is .13 degrees both sides. It drives straight and corners nice. Best of all, no more clunks and pops from the passenger side!

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Still working on passenger door/quarter glass alignment, mucho frustrating.
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I know what you mean! Changed my 73 SE to a hardtop and yes it’s frustrating! Especially when you think it’s right and then you roll up the window and it cuts into the 1/4 window weatherstripping Or vice versa. Hang in there you’ll get it!
This probably goes without saying but, the lower adjustment changes the anglarity and the top adjustment Changes depth. Having said that, changing one will slightly change the other. Again, hang in there, you’ll get it! We don’t have the luxury of the training that line workers got, gotta figure it out by ourselves .
 
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