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What did you do to your Mopar today?

Tried firing up new ignition… no fuel.

Replacing fuel pump. Pump rod good.

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Adjusted the front height a bit. The pass side bolt really fought me and still needs to move a bit to make it even with the D side. Even tho it appears to be backed out more than the driver's side by a bit. Anyway lowered about an inch.
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Been crawling around underneath. Doug said the shifter arm from the steering column needs to drop in to the gear box, with a bit of wiggle room. Well the part that adjusts was rusted frozen to the shaft. Pic shows the pieces BG, before grease. Then I connected a bunch of stuff, like the new master cylinder. Slowly making progress. Might fire next week.

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Spent a couple hours (more likely closer to 3) trying to remove rear window trim, and i'm all out of swear words, but got er done.

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Cam lobe worn?

Nope. Just checking. There was very little fuel pump arm wear. Car only has 8K miles since 1981…. Bad just from stitting. Was put in 7/6/2008. Maybe replaced original here (C-6 = March 1966):

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Drove it 15 or so miles to local cruise-in. Seems to be ok. These ‘66 carbs are sorta PITA.

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Getting all the pieces connected for the new carb and manifold. Bolted on the new adapter piece for the carb. Rod is too short to connect to the original swivel part. Some things need to move left about one inch for the wider carb. Made a bracket to bolt to the original swivel part. Steel is too hard to drill with my selection of drill bits. Needs a 3/16 hole.
Will buy two drill bits today. Pics when it is connected.
 
Moved from a field to a covered area to begin a long term return to life as I can fit it in with everything else.

383-4speed with Air Grabber hood and 3.23:1 Sure Grip. . Blue and another green over the original F8 green with F8 green interior.

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I bolted up the stock exhaust to the stock manifolds. Difficult at best. Put some pieces on the front end. Bent a piece of metal fuel pipe, to join up to the rubber fuel line to carb.
Got the carb linkages organised yesterday. Turned the crank by hand, to learn which way the distributor turned. Clockwise.
Back to TDC on number one, and turned the distributor about 15 degrees. Broke the new fuel filter.
Tomorrow. Radiator, ignition, oil, battery. Check the linkage to the 727. Loosen the bleed lines to the front brakes early and moniter.
 
this might be a little OCD but i waxed / polished my entire exhaust system , headers , crossovers , mufflers and pipes and tips . then I did the same to the fuel tank.:realcrazy::realcrazy:
 
the header polish for ceramic coated headers from mancini will let off a little on warm up and then nothing ,no burning or discoloring and the rest of the exhaust.i used a plain cleaner wax with no problems,
 
I filled all the fluids, 727, 318, radiator, power steering pump.
Then removed a bunch of wyres that went to the coil and ignition, and a few that had no connections. Ran a new red wyre from the fuses ( not original ) to the coil area. Put the battery in and cranked over the mighty 318 with no plugs in. Volts on the meter went South, and the test light went out.
Checked the battery, okay. Starter motor serviced last year.
Current suspect is the starter relay. Not sure if it is the original. If it was replaced, by me, it must be Chinese.
Will get a new one Monday.
 
Finally got the new rear shocks in, it was a bitch getting the old ones out. Finally I drilled access holes in the trunk, it’s not as bad as it sounds though, 2 inches below where I drilled there is no trunk, it rotted away. What I drilled was very rusty too so I don’t feel bad. I’m just lucky the actual shock crossmember and other structure is good.
The old shocks had those JC Whitney helper springs so I think the new shocks with no springs is very slightly lower.
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