Totally agree. Still running the same condenser for years with no problems, and the spares are all over 20 years old but never used.
What is your favorite Ignition setup
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451Mopar
Well-Known Member
Another issue is not what the best system is, but the quality of the parts. I have had junk points and junk electronics.
With these ignition systems it is difficult to determine which parts are good or junk without having had tested them. Price should indicate something about the quality, but in this case, you can get expensive junk too. Back in the 1980's I bought some "high performance" points, but the rubbing block broke off after about 200 miles.
I don't know anyone complaining about the ignition systems on their new cars where you changes spark plugs about every 100,000 miles and never worry about the ignition system failing.
With these ignition systems it is difficult to determine which parts are good or junk without having had tested them. Price should indicate something about the quality, but in this case, you can get expensive junk too. Back in the 1980's I bought some "high performance" points, but the rubbing block broke off after about 200 miles.
I don't know anyone complaining about the ignition systems on their new cars where you changes spark plugs about every 100,000 miles and never worry about the ignition system failing.
Quality points and condenser have been a Issue for quite a while, condensers usually fail half the time when I test them and you are lucky to get 17 inoz of spring tension (17-23 normally spec is required so no point float) You see the old stuff but it, prices are spiking on them right now, gad I have been getting them for years, I will not use post 80 ignition parts in my distributors.
RGAZ
Well-Known Member
Good discussion. Since its opinion, I will second the Petronix adapter. Its a pretty clean install and I have found it to be very reliable in my Nailhead Buick.
I would say its 1 step better than OE, nothing extreme.
RGAZ
I would say its 1 step better than OE, nothing extreme.
RGAZ
Bats5
Active Member
I have a 318 with a points system, looking to change to an electronic system. Do you have the part number for you HEI module you used? was it easy to install?
You need a early 70s small block distributor (I paid $38.00 for a new distributor at Rock Auto) to trigger the HEI module (Standard # LX301T), the adapter to mount the module (http://www.designed2drive.com/), a Standard #FD478 ignition coil, Airtex/Wells #1P1091 coil electrical connector, the ballast resistor must be by-passed (12 volts to feed the module), and yes, time to rewire and mount everything. Easy? I am pleased with the install as I stated earlier.
Mike
Bats5
Active Member
Awesome, thank you so much. appreciate the detailed response.
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THIS!
I don't have time to read the manual or tweak the data points, but this is the "map" from the Progression Ignition app.
Download the free app and play around with it.
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I'm posting this MAJOR update in several "Progression Ignition" threads to make sure no one misses it!
"PROGRESSION IGNITION UPDATE!
Ted at Progression is emailing lots of people today:
The Chrysler NEW SMALLER DIAMETER distributor housing units are available!!
He said he has changed all the associated pictures on their website.
This should eliminate the occasional fitment issues some had with aftermarket heads and/or fabricated valve covers.
https://progressionignition.com/shop/ols/categories/chrysler
My reliable setup is this...
Pertronix Ignitor II or III in oem dist.
Flamethrower coil
Gutted ballast resistor
Solid state voltage regulator
Bonus....
Add denso alternator w/ internal VR and gut the stock VR = Constant volts.
Pertronix Ignitor II or III in oem dist.
Flamethrower coil
Gutted ballast resistor
Solid state voltage regulator
Bonus....
Add denso alternator w/ internal VR and gut the stock VR = Constant volts.
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Again, PerTronix billet aluminum distributor w/Ignitor III was my 1st choice (at the time) when the 421 Tripower got a major performance rebuild, switched to hydraulic roller cam and lifters, bored another .005 for .035 over, etc...
I have yet to do anything with the curve kit that came with it. All I did was set initial advance (vac line disconnected) hooked up vac advance hose, checked total timing. I DEFINITELY set the Rev Limiter so I don't have to worry about me or my wife missing a gear at WOT.
BUT
I know I'm leaving significant power untapped in the (now 428 cu in) 1965 Tripower GTO, and it IS important to get more out of it than I have, because although the rebuild was necessary, we haven't reached our goal of 12.8 sec in the 1320 to beat my dad's 1st Place winning time in his 65 GTO 389 Tripower, and I KNOW the engine has the potential!
My point?
I think the PerTronix products are GREAT, and especially if you want stock appearance with a rev limiter and multiple HOT, POWERFUL spark, their Ignitor III module is THE way to go, bar NONE!
BUT!!!
I know of NO other ignition system that has the myriad of vital as well as performance oriented setup/control and data feedback capabilities (without including the various Engine Control Systems that are used with fuel injection and cost thousands of dollars) AND are extremely easy for set up and adjust as the Progression Ignition!!
Many of the systems listed in this thread have limited ability to control the slope of the advance curve, total advance, many have no rev limiter capabilities, and NO data feedback.
The tuning capabilities of some are based on mechanical functions like weights and springs.
For under $600 the Progression Ignition system has more to offer that is extremely useful than any of the systems, but it's not hard to get the most out of it. I am certain that if the PerTronix in the GTO was as easy to maximize its tune as the Progression is, I would have done that within weeks of installing it, instead of it still not being done.
I'm stepping off my soapbox.
My opinions are obvious.
I am especially on a rant because I've always thought the ignition system was WAY more important to performance than most people do.
I'm excited the smaller diameter Progression distributors are now available for MOPAR engines!
I'm waiting for a couple of upgrades to their capabilities, as long as they are available by the time my 572 needs its ignition system.
I have yet to do anything with the curve kit that came with it. All I did was set initial advance (vac line disconnected) hooked up vac advance hose, checked total timing. I DEFINITELY set the Rev Limiter so I don't have to worry about me or my wife missing a gear at WOT.
BUT
I know I'm leaving significant power untapped in the (now 428 cu in) 1965 Tripower GTO, and it IS important to get more out of it than I have, because although the rebuild was necessary, we haven't reached our goal of 12.8 sec in the 1320 to beat my dad's 1st Place winning time in his 65 GTO 389 Tripower, and I KNOW the engine has the potential!
My point?
I think the PerTronix products are GREAT, and especially if you want stock appearance with a rev limiter and multiple HOT, POWERFUL spark, their Ignitor III module is THE way to go, bar NONE!
BUT!!!
I know of NO other ignition system that has the myriad of vital as well as performance oriented setup/control and data feedback capabilities (without including the various Engine Control Systems that are used with fuel injection and cost thousands of dollars) AND are extremely easy for set up and adjust as the Progression Ignition!!
Many of the systems listed in this thread have limited ability to control the slope of the advance curve, total advance, many have no rev limiter capabilities, and NO data feedback.
The tuning capabilities of some are based on mechanical functions like weights and springs.
For under $600 the Progression Ignition system has more to offer that is extremely useful than any of the systems, but it's not hard to get the most out of it. I am certain that if the PerTronix in the GTO was as easy to maximize its tune as the Progression is, I would have done that within weeks of installing it, instead of it still not being done.
I'm stepping off my soapbox.
My opinions are obvious.
I am especially on a rant because I've always thought the ignition system was WAY more important to performance than most people do.
I'm excited the smaller diameter Progression distributors are now available for MOPAR engines!
I'm waiting for a couple of upgrades to their capabilities, as long as they are available by the time my 572 needs its ignition system.
Geoff 2
Well-Known Member
Pert claims that the Pert III multi sparks throughout the rpm range. Don't believe it for a number of reasons:
- firing a lot of cyls like 8 reduces dwell time for each spark. Cannot see how this could be done with inductive ign, which is what I believe PERT III is...
-...because CD ign is the other type of ign that can multi spark & it requires a sizeable transformer [ that is why 6AL & others come in a box, for the trans ] which would not fit inside the Pert module.
- multi spark is a great sales feature. If it was really possible, others would be copying the design
- I emailed Pert with the above info/questions as to how it can multi spark, got no reply.
- firing a lot of cyls like 8 reduces dwell time for each spark. Cannot see how this could be done with inductive ign, which is what I believe PERT III is...
-...because CD ign is the other type of ign that can multi spark & it requires a sizeable transformer [ that is why 6AL & others come in a box, for the trans ] which would not fit inside the Pert module.
- multi spark is a great sales feature. If it was really possible, others would be copying the design
- I emailed Pert with the above info/questions as to how it can multi spark, got no reply.
Canadian1968
Well-Known Member
I am confused by the petronix line up. Which kit did you use to do the stealth install inside a stock Mallory style distributor ?
And if I am reading correctly if you want the ignitor 3 you have to but that separate onto of the conversion kit ?
440 PHIXX
The Island of Misfit Mopars
Points work. But they are in a constant state of going out of tune. Block wear, and erosion of the contacts. Electronic is set and forget.
I used an oem single point distributor, not a Mallory.
I have the II in my 62 Belvedere and the III in my GTX. The only install difference is that a hall effect sleeve is used over the cam lobe on the II but the III doesn't use the hall effect sleeve. I prefer the III.
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Considering I only put about 1000 miles on per year, I really don't mind taking a few minutes each spring to check the points, dwell, and timing. Once that's set I'm good for the summer.
440 PHIXX
The Island of Misfit Mopars
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YES.....I agree.....plus I just like the origional appearance and function of the old Prestolite dual point distributor....the car is not a race application Just an occasional use vehicle......
BOB RENTON
A daily I totally get it. I ran points on a 66 Coronet daily for a couple years until the condenser failed. Bought a new Mopar conversion kit and ran that trouble-free for 8 years.View attachment 1344204I understand. In some cases it may not be worth the trouble. My daily still has points. But it’s a 383. I daily drove a ‘68 wagon with a 273. I leaned over that long front end once. Then installed the Mopar 4 pin.
440 PHIXX
The Island of Misfit Mopars
I built my Six Pack Charger back in 1985. And way back then the DC manual recommended upgrading to electronic, unless you were in Stock Eliminator. Just for the consistency factor. But... they were selling parts. So could also be some commercialism. And there certainly was some suspect info in those books. Anyone remember the “thin wall” 440 blocks, that could only be over bored .02?
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