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Who knows about speaker building and crossovers?

YY1

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OK, so I have a temporary cheap system in my Satellite.

It's a Dual (I know [it IS 30 WPC and aux in]) head unit and Bose 5" home speakers designed for surround use (Really, I know- 8 ohm with a 4 ohm amp).

Any way, I'm really not the biggest bose fan, but they are working, albeit with no low end to speak of.

So... I got this Sony home sub unit for $5, and it actually looks like a pretty good driver- 8" with a beefy magnet and rubber surround.

I'd like to hook that sub to the other channels of the amp, but I want to block the trebble.

I have some crossovers from a high end DIY speaker kit I inherited from my cool uncle.

They're "Dimension 4" kits, and there are several crossover included.

The one I think will work is pictured below.

My question is- how does it hook up?

Normally there are + and - in and a + out and - out for each speaker, right?

This one has "L+ in" and "WL out" and then "common".

I think this may actually even be a band pass crossover.

Do I just hook up the +in and common from the amp, and run WL out and the common to the sub?

Any help?
 

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If all you want to do is block the highs on that sub, just buy a low pass crossover. You can find em online for $20.

it's been a very long time for me since i worked with stand alone crosovers so i have no help for the "w" connector.

wait, i be the W means woofer. And i bet the "l" means line level.

- - - Updated - - -

it looks like a single output crossover, so it really is a filter. Te key is to find out what it is filtering and what it is letting through. If you let more than like 100 or 200hz through a true sub, you'll degrade the performance of the speaker pretty quick, especially at loud levels.

To test what frequency that thing works at find and download some free frequency mp3's and run em through an ipod that is going through that speaker. If you dont hear it, that crossover is blocking it. I would start at like 100 and 2000. Then work up/down from there. It could be a band pass filter which allows only midrange, gut that W really makes me think its a low pass.
 
That's what I was thinking. Thanks for the second opinion.

I'm pretty sure W is for woof, and I think the other one just like this hs WR instead of WL.

What I wasn;t seeing, is the common seems to just attach and keep going, without actually going through anything. It does hit the other side of that cap, though.

...and I have a really old analog frequency generator from an old phone co substation that was being torn down.

Used to have a huge Western Electric rack mount freq counter, complete with nixie tube display.
had to let it go due to running out of space while I was still living at "home".
 
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