You guys want to save a couple bucks ?
I know a guy.
I know a guy.
Why is automotive body paint so costly ?
- Thread starter rustytoolss
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I always use the card.........the card is what was pissing me off with the orange and yellow
Canadian1968
Well-Known Member
It does matter on the color. But I know what you mean . Some colors are actually designed like that on purpose to help accent body lines and curves. Others have a crazy flop that allow the metallic to really pop from a side angle
Like at the start of thise video !
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I still get crowds around this
ol' gal. The majority want to
know the year and make.
It's taken a long time to get
it to this point with
everything in this build being
custom. It turns out, the
single most expensive step
is going to be the paint,
which I'm terrible at
applying, and don't have the
money, time, and energy to
complete. I'll leave it up to
my son if he wants to see it
thru.
ol' gal. The majority want to
know the year and make.
It's taken a long time to get
it to this point with
everything in this build being
custom. It turns out, the
single most expensive step
is going to be the paint,
which I'm terrible at
applying, and don't have the
money, time, and energy to
complete. I'll leave it up to
my son if he wants to see it
thru.
Darryl Tilton
Member
I'm late to the party here but will add my dos centavos. As a PPG certified shop, the PPG rep told me that 25% of the cost goes toward forward technology. Meeting upcoming regulations. When I use Deltron or Concept paint line I have no problem with coverage of reds, orange or yellow. Omni is like pisswater, 8-10 coats. The Omni epoxy and polyurethane primers are good products but their topcoats are not very good. PPG 2021 clear is the bomb! Workability and longevity and you can mix it with Concept colors. I have won best of show and best paint trophies with this system. I am going to try some SPI in the near future as I need a new budget friendly line since Auto Extra left, it was a good dollar friendly product. My bottom line is, if I need to do a job that is top of the line and needs to last, PPG Concept/Delton line. I have 30 year old paint jobs out there still near perfect.
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Brick and cement man is building a low horsepower wheel stander I bet lol,
j-c-c-62
Well-Known Member
It must be better because it costs more mentality.
It's also got electrolytes I am told.
JC Boatguy
Well-Known Member
j-c-c-62
Well-Known Member
Is he hiding his face from the camera, or crying because he got a splinter in his eye?
"wraps" are looking better every day !!!
Just bought the paint to do my RR. 3 gallons of red and 3 gallons of reducer. Sherwin Williams ATX. $2700 ... Canadian
Just bought the paint to do my RR. 3 gallons of red and 3 gallons of reducer. Sherwin Williams ATX. $2700 ... Canadian
sam dupont
Well-Known Member
On coverage: My friends and I would buy cars in need of something, fix it, and sell. Making a profit was elusive and I vowed to show it could be done if one watched spending. I bought a van from a local roofing company. They paint all their rigs red and I painted it white with tractor enamel, on sale for $12 per gallon ($32 today). I was spraying the second coat and the red was still showing so I started putting it on thicker. With the third coat, there were still light red tiger stripes in the finish. So I started putting the paint on very thick, but it still didn't fix it. I suspected what was going on and went into the office and stared at the gray carpet for a couple minutes. Went back out and sure enough, the paint was fine, no stripes. It must have been the cones and rods in my eyes causing the stripes from staring at that vast expanse of white.
moparx
Well-Known Member
I know you are not supposed to mix brands, but years ago, [back in the mid 70's] a buddy managed a body shop for a large Ford dealership.
We came up with the idea of a "beer paint job"............
on at least 12 or more vehicles, we just mixed a bunch of the "leftover" pints, quarts, etc, into "custom" colors, added a touch of whatever beer we were consuming at the moment, and sprayed away. We covered everything except the glass and lights. When ya really don't CARE, these paint jobs turned out GREAT and lasted forever ! This was before the OEM,s went to all one color vehicles. We should'a sued 'em for stealing our idea......
We came up with the idea of a "beer paint job"............
on at least 12 or more vehicles, we just mixed a bunch of the "leftover" pints, quarts, etc, into "custom" colors, added a touch of whatever beer we were consuming at the moment, and sprayed away. We covered everything except the glass and lights. When ya really don't CARE, these paint jobs turned out GREAT and lasted forever ! This was before the OEM,s went to all one color vehicles. We should'a sued 'em for stealing our idea......
OldIron
Member
Last month I painted my 93 Dakota that I bought in 93. The 30-year-old 300k mile trashed surface was made good after removing all the clear coat and a lot of the base down to the factory primer and some of it to metal. With sandpaper.
I used Viper Red acrylic enamel with a hardener, all from Clark's Wholesale Paints, from eBay. They call the paint line PMI. Total cost was about $100 for a gallon of paint, quart of reducer, pint of hardener. Next time I will order more reducer. This was sprayed over an unknown brand of black epoxy primer form Amazon, that was $60 with thinner.
Application was outside in the shade with a 5-mph breeze at 70 degrees with 125 feet of hose from a 4 horse 20-gallon compressor. All the wrong stuff.
It went on surprisingly well and smooth with 55 psi at the Binks model 7. No drips, runs or orange peel. 3 medium wet coats, dry to the touch between coats. The finish product is just a touch dry as anticipated.
My plan was to cut with 600 and buff. But it went on well enough to cut with 800, or maybe even 1000.
It's hard enough to cut and buff after one month. If it weren't for the dust, I would call it good and skip the cut/buff.
So, depending on the car, it's an option.
We will see if the paint stays on the truck.
I used Viper Red acrylic enamel with a hardener, all from Clark's Wholesale Paints, from eBay. They call the paint line PMI. Total cost was about $100 for a gallon of paint, quart of reducer, pint of hardener. Next time I will order more reducer. This was sprayed over an unknown brand of black epoxy primer form Amazon, that was $60 with thinner.
Application was outside in the shade with a 5-mph breeze at 70 degrees with 125 feet of hose from a 4 horse 20-gallon compressor. All the wrong stuff.
It went on surprisingly well and smooth with 55 psi at the Binks model 7. No drips, runs or orange peel. 3 medium wet coats, dry to the touch between coats. The finish product is just a touch dry as anticipated.
My plan was to cut with 600 and buff. But it went on well enough to cut with 800, or maybe even 1000.
It's hard enough to cut and buff after one month. If it weren't for the dust, I would call it good and skip the cut/buff.
So, depending on the car, it's an option.
We will see if the paint stays on the truck.
PurpleBeeper
Well-Known Member
Heated or sprayed (like with paint), isocyanates are very dangerous. Wear supplied air or change your organic facemask cartridges ever single time you spray. It literally reacts with your lungs
Coop
Active Member
Funny how the same people that warned of “inflation” are the same ones that raise prices “in response” to the market. It’s all a sham run by puppet masters waiting for the next fabricated excuse to further line their pockets.
sam dupont
Well-Known Member
They come from the catalyst?
So you can run, jump and climb faster after drinking it?
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