howiedodat
Well-Known Member
Running yet ????
Won't start
- Thread starter THE STIG
- Start date
THE STIG
Well-Known Member
So dude came over today and we got it to run for a few seconds but the gas smells like it's gone bad. So now I'm going to the hardware store tomorrow for some sort of siphoning pump and a new mailbox, then to put some good dinosaur juice in and keep my fingures crossed. Incase it comes to it does anyone know where my fuel pump would be located? I'm thinking it may be somwhere on the passenger side.
bluefury
Well-Known Member
No start.....
Well I pulled the cap and the rotor spins and the carb is getting gas, and now the battery issues are coming back. This is getting really really old.
No mention of the ballast resistor.............!!!!! Put a jumper across the terminals.
I've driven Mopars since the 60's and learned along time ago to carry an extra ballast resistor in the car.
Well I pulled the cap and the rotor spins and the carb is getting gas, and now the battery issues are coming back. This is getting really really old.
No mention of the ballast resistor.............!!!!! Put a jumper across the terminals.
I've driven Mopars since the 60's and learned along time ago to carry an extra ballast resistor in the car.
Is it running? Hope you are having some good luck with the car.
blackblazer717
Well-Known Member
Im having the same issues, except mine, i did a cap,roter,plugs,wires... Went to start, ran for 4 seconds, died no have no spark... Im gunna blame the bulkhead connector until i get home and diagnose further. Already tryed replacing pickup coil, and checked some wiring. It could also need a new dizzy completely and or bulkhead connector or under dash wiring.
Coil spark sounds good but how is the spark at the plugs?
Compression OK?
Compression OK?
THE STIG
Well-Known Member
I swithced from spark to fuel, I drained the old gas from the tank and replaced it with 5 gallons of new premium then replaced the fuel pump and filter. It wasnt all as easy as I made it sound, there was a lot of bad gas in that tank and I had to chase down some new tools to get the new fuel pump in but today it started and ran. For the first time in about a year I had to use the key to turn the engine off! But thanks to everyone for thier insight I greatly appreciate it.
howiedodat
Well-Known Member
Glad to hear you finally got it going. Good luck with the rest !
THE STIG
Well-Known Member
I do have another question. While I had the alternator out I had it tested at AZ and they told me it's all good except for the diodes which were "N/A" so I'm asuming that it's good but the battery won't hold a charge but with the engine running in theory the alternotor should recharge the battery. I discovered that the thing that attaches to the back of the alternator was broken off at the connector so I replaced the the bad end now how do I test if the battery is being recharged?
poly3521
Well-Known Member
Ok, Testing for alternator charge is easy. You need a multimeter, or a voltmeter. Set the multimeter to VDC. Black Negative to Battery Negative, Red positive to battery positive. See what you have in the battery. Normal, according to the US Marine Corps, full charge is 12.65 Volts. Yours may vary. Start the engine, and see what it reads. Should be between 13.5 and 15 Volts. If it isn't, you may have the wires crossed on the alternator. Happened on mine by the previous owner. It should go BAT, Blue wire, Green wire on a 70 and newer. If thats good, check your voltage regulator, it may be bad. It should be on the firewall, and they aren't too expensive. If it does the same thing with a new regulator, you need a new alternator or yours rebuilt. Hope this helps. John
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