What did you do to your Mopar today?

[Chargerjase]

I like the exhaust ports out the back window. I've been thinking about something similar myself.

They work very well. Kind of necessary for two reasons, it saves me getting gassed out when I am warming her up and also because it’s a shared garage. The last thing I want to do is piss off the neighbours. I’m in my last year here and just want to get through it, before we both jump on a boat and get out of here.

 

[HawkRod]

I'm doing some final clearancing for my buddy's 440 (going in his 67 GTX).

This engine will run a Holley Sniper fuel injection system as well as a having the timing controlled by the Sniper. As usual, there were clearance issues with the distributor. It hit the head (expected) and also the spacer that is required due to the Mopar Stage VI heads.

The distributor hit the head here...

...and the spacer here:

I ground off part of the corner of the head. It didn't need much, and ended up looking like this:

I also ground down the end of the spacer a bit (but no picture of the spacer by itself - sorry).
Now there is space available between the distributor and head...

... and also the distributor and spacer.

Just little steps, but they are all needed!

 

[OneWheelPeel]

Installed the CrackedBack headlight relay kit. Never really drove it at night so no idea how much better it is, it was more a preventative thing. Also I couldn't get my motion detector driveway light to turn off for a pic.

At some point I'll use the torsion headlight adjusters to aim them lower

 

[YY1]

Finally tackled the timing belt in the '15 Renegade.

I'll admit it was intimidating me.

I took the week off.
Book time says 4.5 hours.
I gave myself 5 days.
I fully expected to find unusual things and the need for new tools and techniques.
I was right.
First off was the need for an external torx socket.
Next was the use of that 1" 3/8 drive extension.
I got it in a set of extensions that was on close out at Lowes.
Never used it before.
Seems like I used it 20 times.
Next was using my left hand to hand loosen nuts and bolts.

The tensioner is behind the motor mount (which you have to remove and that's what takes the E torx)
...and behind the frame rail.
The engine side of the motor mount is one of the strangest castings I've ever seen and has a bolt on the bottom that's so tight to the casting, I had to grind off some of the box end of a 13mm wrench.
...and of course that 1 of 5 bolts is the one that would not finger tighten.
30 degree swing of that modified wrench...about 700 times...laying with my head directly under the brake rotor.

It was an SOB to get the actual belt on.
Had to try all three gears and the tensioner "last" and it finally went with the crank first and tensioner last.

Not sure how you are supposed to torque the crank pulley bolts to 20 ft pounds plus 100* turn when the engine turns as you try.
I cheated and just used the impact gun a "little".

...but it's done and no longer intimidating.

Shakedown cruise showed no codes.

YAY!

On day 2 I was over the hump and got it done in 2.5 days.

 

[Unkle Krusty]

Set the inlet manifold in place, and then the carburetor.
The stock 2 barrel cast iron inlet weighs a lot.
Asked some questions about the carb, but have been reading the instructions.

 

[71RRHI]

Nothing better than the satisfaction of fixing it yourself.

 

[threewood]

Took the GTX for a short drive with the wife and did some sweet burnouts on the deserted county roads. Left a few great smoke clouds behind. My wife was smiling!

 

[HawkRod]

Finally got some shims and valve train hardware, so I finalized the 440 for the GTX.

I didn't get pictures of the process, but it basically involves bluing (or using a black marker) on the tops of the valves, then installing at least the rockers for cylinder #1 and then turning the engine over a couple of times. After disassembly, you can see where the marks are on the valves. The marks should be centered on the valve. If they are not, then you need to move the rod up or down.

This assembly ended up with a .010" shims. Below is a picture before setting preload, but the engine is now ready for painting and final set up!

 

[autoxcuda]

Finished up changing intake gasket

Gasket blew out on back china rail.

Done

Original ?

Green with Black stripe

C-6 I believe is March 1966. Same date as carbs.

 

[67 Mopar]

Stripped the valve covers back to bare metal for a repaint.

 

[Tony Tee]

I pressure washed the grey plastidip coating off the magnum as it had petrified in 10 years time into a rock hard coating. And unfortunately revealed some bad rust repairs.

 

[Unkle Krusty]

The dust and grime we collected underneath the Tukvan, on our trip to the Arctic, was more than an inch thick in parts, and set like concrete. I pressure washed underneath two times to get back to bare metal. After it dried I painted everything with red oxide paint.

 

[67 Mopar]

Finished up those valve covers this morning... 3 coats of primer, 3 coats of color, and 3 coats of clear.
Painted them Gold to match the block that I recently painted as well... it use to be Hemi Orange.

 

[67 Mopar]

Had to loose the 7 QT deep sump oil pan I had on this block and switch to a 6 QT HEMI pan. For whatever reason, the 1/2" NPT pickup tube I picked up to fit it from 440Source was way to long. I had to cut 3/4" off the end of the tube and retap the threads to get 1/4" clearance off the bottom of the pan. Better way to long than way to short eh. It's good to go now however, so maybe tomorrow I'll get the new pan installed.

 

[Unkle Krusty]

I fitted a board / piece of wood, so the end of the 727 can slide down, and in to the sling / hanger for the rear mount. I have two new rubber mounts for the engine to bolt in place. I dabbed a few places with red oxide paint. Moved all the obstructions out of the way. Soon, I will present the 727 and 318 to return from whence it came. Firing and testing probably some time next week.

 

[Triplegreen500]

Correct me if I'm wrong but you want to seal that red oxide with an actual paint or undercoat - I believe, like primer, it will hold moisture and can cause rust if left exposed.

 

[Unkle Krusty]

The red oxide is on the underside, and will be left bare.
However, painting is not my strong point. The steel forming the erection shop was painted with red oxide quite a few years ago. It is doing fine.
Others can comment on this if they like. I am not a painter.
Painting the underside is not an easy task. I will monitor the paint over time.

 

[Shenango]

Changed spark plugs on my 440 with headers. Didn't hurt at all and only was bleeding twice.

 

[Dave6T4]

I pulled the rear leaf springs out of my 1967 R/T last week, and took them to be rebuilt. I picked them up a couple of days ago, and repainted them yesterday. I plan to reinstall them this weekend. Mopar Performance S/S springs, and they had sagged. I hope they pick the a$$ end up about 2" .

 

[qkcuda]

Nothing worse than a saggy a$$ Dave!