1967 Coronet 500 - Billings Montana

[MT_Mopar]

That's gotta feel good getting that all behind you and I see you used the same wire wrap I did, really nice stuff. Man I really like that radiator, do the older Mopars have more room than the 69's because I couldn't get one to fit in mine and ended up going mechanical for now?

Well, I put a tape measure on it before I pulled everything, I should have at least 1/2" - 3/4" between the new fan and the motor pulley. - That SOB better fit!, I hope... LOL!

Yea, I really like that TechFlex, with the new vinyal wrap it goes together nice.

It was me vs. rust tonight, rolled around under the car with a wire brush and shop vac, going to brush everything really good and use Eastwoods Fast Etch, then prime and paint. My arms are tired.

Also ran by Fastnal tonight and picked up some insulated 1/2" cable clamps to install my new fuel line.

 

[MT_Mopar]

Some research and development happening this weekend...

[video=youtube;QoFlcMv4yI0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QoFlcMv4yI0[/video]

 

[MT_Mopar]

The probe pistons that Jim wanted to use on my motor build are 6-8 weeks out, so instead of wait we went with the 82008 Ross Forged Pistons.

He should start building the motor next week. :hello2:

I got some disc brakes installed on the K member today, moving along on this build.

 

[coronet340]

You're the man MT, you're the man.

Was pulling that K member out a PITA? How long did it take? The more I look at mine the more I think I need to pull it.

 

[MT_Mopar]

You're the man MT, you're the man.

Was pulling that K member out a PITA? How long did it take? The more I look at mine the more I think I need to pull it.

The K member is not bad at all, I guess it depends on time, If I were in a hurry or on a schedule then something would go wrong or get stuck and I would be pissed.

I just took my time and checked with the forum and the service manual, mainly about the torsion bars and upper control arms.

There is quite a bit to replace on these, I used PST kit for ball joints, control arms, bushings and steering. That power steering pump was leaking like a POS, I was glad that was only $160 to replace.

I have been seriously contemplating installing the new motor on the K member and then lowering the car down on that. The only problem I see is lowering the car down, I can easily get the motor on the K member, and get the front of the car up high enough with jacks, but lowering has me stuck. I don't have anything overhead so I am forced to do everything from underneath, I could weld up some type of frame... not quite sure on this one. Any suggestions on how to do that would help.

I'm think I am going to just go back with installing the old conventional puller/picker method.

Going to install the brake calipers today and dink around with a few more wire jobs.

I also installed my fuel pressure regulator and getting ready to run my fuel lines from the back of the car.

 

[coronet340]

The K member is not bad at all, I guess it depends on time, If I were in a hurry or on a schedule then something would go wrong or get stuck and I would be pissed.

I just took my time and checked with the forum and the service manual, mainly about the torsion bars and upper control arms.

There is quite a bit to replace on these, I used PST kit for ball joints, control arms, bushings and steering. That power steering pump was leaking like a POS, I was glad that was only $160 to replace.

I have been seriously contemplating installing the new motor on the K member and then lowering the car down on that. The only problem I see is lowering the car down, I can easily get the motor on the K member, and get the front of the car up high enough with jacks, but lowering has me stuck. I don't have anything overhead so I am forced to do everything from underneath, I could weld up some type of frame... not quite sure on this one. Any suggestions on how to do that would help.

I'm think I am going to just go back with installing the old conventional puller/picker method.

Going to install the brake calipers today and dink around with a few more wire jobs.

It seemed like there was a ton to replace. My bushings are pretty much toast.

That's a pretty good idea lowering the car onto the motor. I'm sure someone on here has a good way to do it.

 

[MT_Mopar]

Got a new garage banner installed, makes the place a little more livable.

Also finished up the caliper install. Should install the K member soon.

 

[Propwash]

Sure looking pretty John. Looking ready to Rock N' Roll!

 

[GearAddict]

Looking good! That fully assembled K frame makes me regret not going that route on mine.

Nice work.

 

[MT_Mopar]

Thanks for the comments

I bought this Wilwood Brake Proportioning Valve 260-8419, from what I've read I install it right behind the distribution block on the rear exit line. I have a stock master cylinder with power brakes.

Question: Adjustment? - How do I know how much to adjust the valve? I'm guessing there is a little instruction sheet? I have never used one of these brake valves.

Thanks for your help!

 

[GearAddict]

I'm doing the same on mine, but haven't gotten it in yet. The instructions I've read all say to start by running it wide open, have a second person to watch from the outside, get the car up to 30 and then stand on the brake... if the rears lock first, adjust, rinse and repeat until they lock evenly (or slightly biased to the fronts? can't recall).

 

[Propwash]

I'm doing the same on mine, but haven't gotten it in yet. The instructions I've read all say to start by running it wide open, have a second person to watch from the outside, get the car up to 30 and then stand on the brake... if the rears lock first, adjust, rinse and repeat until they lock evenly (or slightly biased to the fronts? can't recall).

X2!



Trial and error Padre.

 

[MT_Mopar]

Summit Racing rocks!

I have bought a ton of parts from them, recently a crap load for the Coronet. My last order had a defective vacuum gauge, when I received it, the thing showed 8in. of vacuum and not zero (cheap $14 summit gauge). I sent them a picture of the funky gauge and told them it was not worth my time to do the whole return shipping deal and I wanted a replacement gauge sent - without question they immediately sent one, no charge to me. - Right on Summit!

Then on another order (UPS man can drive blind folded to my house he has been here so many times, LOL) the box had a big hole in the side, the order had a bunch of parts in it and I dove in like Christmas morning, opening boxes and checking out the new parts, it wasn't until 4 -5 days later that I realized I did not receive my Stewart Warner fuel level gauge, I emailed Summit and they said they had a record that it had shipped and asked if there was damage to the box, I said yes there was damage to the box but I never received the gauge. The Summit dude (Irving), said he was going to file a claim with UPS and I will here from them soon.

I was kind of pissed... but oh f*&%ing well, another $40 bucks down the drain, what the hell right?

I just received an email from Irving this afternoon saying they are shipping a new gauge out, no expense to me, and they were going to deal with UPS - NICE!

Bravo Summit Racing - I'm a happy customer :hello2:

Thought I would share that.

 

[GearAddict]

Summit is great to deal with. I had a similar issue with an auto meter gauge and they sent me a new one right away and said to "throw the old one in the mail when I can get around to it"

 

[MT_Mopar]

Time for some 8 3/4 work, nothing more embarrassing than leaving one black stripe on the pavement!

I got an Eaton locker to install, that will be fun.

 

[roadrunnerman]

Looks like you're getting closer to rockin' and rollin'.

 

[MT_Mopar]

Installing a 340LPH fuel system into a 22 gal. fuel cell.



The 8 3/4 center section is going to my gear man tomorrow, he is installing the locker with a 3:73.1 ring and pinion.



Jim is testing the OOTB flows on the eddy victors today (before porting, hehe) - will post the numbers when I get them.

 

[coronet340]

Hey John when you are done I am going to need a build sheet so I can my 500 as sweet as yours!

Are you going to convert the rear to disc as well?

 

[MT_Mopar]

Hey John when you are done I am going to need a build sheet so I can my 500 as sweet as yours!

Are you going to convert the rear to disc as well?

Thanks 340, right now the plan is to leave the rears original drum design, that may come later down the road.

 

[Ron 73]

I will admit its been awhile since ive been here but man, you are making some great progress and hope soon this will be but a memory as your having the time of your life! The parts your getting, i hope some day ill be doing the same, first the car, then the amenities to salute her!