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1968 Charger, Ray Barton 528 Hemi, Pro-touring.

Haven't seen this in a while coming along nicely
nice quality detailed work too :thumbsup:
 
As in the hose end doesn't have a groove for a clip?
Mike
It has a groove but I'm guessing to utilize it you must be able to insert the first part of the fitting through the support brackets hole? It's to small so I guess I just need to drill it up a tad..?
 
Drop spindles or not, what to do?
If I'm going for dropped spindles it will be from firmfeel.com at 440USD.
Is it worth it or not? I feel it will have a positive effect on the geometry since I can have it lowered in the front without messing to much with all the angles. I have tried lowering a previous mopar B-body and the bump steer I got from it was horrific. Very nervous behavior on the road.
I already have everything else adjustable and upgraded in the front end, the dropped spindles I guess would be the icing on the cake but is it really worth the money?
 
It has a groove but I'm guessing to utilize it you must be able to insert the first part of the fitting through the support brackets hole? It's to small so I guess I just need to drill it up a tad..?
Must be the wrong thing to do-it's far to easy! Dropped spindles=your car-your choice. You can reverse the change with nuts and bolts.
Mike
 
@493 Mike
Way to easy!
Well, atleast it's done, rear axle completed. Waiting on u-bolts and blocks to arrive. Cleaned and painted the hangers with cast iron paint.

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All done and ready to be lifted up.
It wheys tons..
Decided to ditch the drop spindles after reading everything I could find about mopar front ends during the weekend, rollcenter, anti-dive, bump steer correction etc etc..
So, took apart the front spindles and hubs to restore them, does anyone know what bearings I will need? Placing an order on Summit soon.
Car originally had drums.

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I noticed with my car that with the HD T bars , in my case 1.12 , lowered about 1.5 inch , with the custom tubular upper A arms and about 4-5* caster the tie rods stayed in the correct angle to prevent the bump steer. Very stable steering.The Hotkiss rear springs will way lower you so no need for blocks.Made a great improvement in the steering too .
 
Big milestone today, installed the dana and took it out of the rotisserie.
Screwed up when I measured clearance around the fuel pump. But I think I can save it by replacing the straight fittings with elbows.
Got the wheels close to the lip so that was a success atleast.
Now it's finally time to marry the k-member to the old elephant..

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Took the old elephant out for a good clean up, did it good, now on to dismantling for paint tochup.
Is it possible to get emotionally attached to a big chunk of iron?
Found a use for the old pedal rubbers, on the front end dolly

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My steering rod stuff arrived. I didn't want to pay as much as the Hotchkis bump steer kit let alone wait for it so I sourced metric stuff locally instead.
Got myself a lifting plate for the Hemi also.
Out with the old, in with the new. Cleaned up the spindles and hubs, new bearings and seals in.
Getting close to putting the front end together.

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My steering rod stuff arrived. I didn't want to pay as much as the Hotchkis bump steer kit let alone wait for it so I sourced metric stuff locally instead.
Got myself a lifting plate for the Hemi also.
Out with the old, in with the new. Cleaned up the spindles and hubs, new bearings and seals in.
Getting close to putting the front end together.

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Have we been introduced to the dark Charger?
Mike
 
Have we been introduced to the dark Charger?
Mike
Mentioned in the first post only. Matching number -69, 440 RT/SE, 727, 8 3/4. A4 silver originally. Mechanically restored, new interior, unmolested engine bay and trunk but needs a new paint job. We decided to wrap it in the meantime. Might repaint it to A4 sometime in the future when my -68 is finished. It's a good driver without any rust.
Belongs to my father, we traded. He got the black Charger and I got a nice -68 body and the Ray Barton Hemi:thumbsup:
 
Mentioned in the first post only. Matching number -69, 440 RT/SE, 727, 8 3/4. A4 silver originally. Mechanically restored, new interior, unmolested engine bay and trunk but needs a new paint job. We decided to wrap it in the meantime. Might repaint it to A4 sometime in the future when my -68 is finished. It's a good driver without any rust.
Belongs to my father, we traded. He got the black Charger and I got a nice -68 body and the Ray Barton Hemi:thumbsup:
Cool that your dad is still around and a car guy!
Mike
 
@493 Mike Yeah, I'm blessed that way, there is not a single screw on these cars that he is not familiar with and he really helps me a lot. He enjoys this as much as I do. Both Mom and Dad enjoys these cars. My Mom has forbidden Dad from ever selling the sublime -70 sixpack Charger and it's quite amusing watching these white haired folks driving up my driveway in a roaring muscle car with the cut outs wide opened! Brings laughter to me every time.

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So, the Hemi is painted, freshened up all surfaces, detailed and resprayed the servo pump and brackets. Good to go in.
Packed the hubs and new bearings with grease and fitted them on the spindles.
My left side motor mount was ripped and I thought I had the correct one on the shelf.. but of course it was the wrong type. So I have to search for a new one..

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Big milestone today, installed the dana and took it out of the rotisserie.
Screwed up when I measured clearance around the fuel pump. But I think I can save it by replacing the straight fittings with elbows.
Got the wheels close to the lip so that was a success atleast.
Now it's finally time to marry the k-member to the old elephant..

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Am I the only one that doesn't like the fuel pump that close to the u-joint?
 
Am I the only one that doesn't like the fuel pump that close to the u-joint?
It's behind the axle. Woops, I was mistaken it is in front. You should write this down, in case I ever make another mistake!
Mike
 
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It's a bit close and it's in front of the axle. Will replace the fittings with 90deg angles to get the hoses closer to the pump. I will also turn it slightly to maximise clearance. But I'm not worried about it being to close to the U-joint. And if I move it further away I'll be more worried about it being to close to the future 3" exhaust tube.
 
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I guess it's hard to see because of the point of view in the photo.

I just saw a guy blow his rear u-joint last week.
 
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