threewood
Well-Known Member
Still get a fresh gallon of SPI grey epoxy
I haven't forgot
I'll let you know in a few weeks, going to be a while before I pull the doors, hood and trunk to spray.1968 Coronet 500 Project
- Thread starter JimKueneman
- Start date
I haven't forgot
I'll let you know in a few weeks, going to be a while before I pull the doors, hood and trunk to spray.
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Jim, just an FYI on your engine pullies. If you find your belts squeal after installation and no amount of adjustment gets them to shut up, you'll need to remove the epoxy from the sheaves.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
But they will look pretty........
- Local time
- 3:06 AM
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- Jul 17, 2008
- Messages
- 4,825
- Reaction score
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I see you didn't leave the alternator with Kellys, so you can bring it by anytime, and I will remove the pulley.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
HaHa....I am ashamed to now.... First I dropped the damn thing and chingered up the pulley so then I said screw it I'll pull it off with a jaw puller and bent the crap out of it more.... Then found out this is a pulley that is typically thought to ONLY be found on 426/413 Hemi's. I had to convince Mopar George in LA who kept insisting that a 318 never had this pulley before he would sell his last one to me. He has been building Mopars for 45 years and never saw this pulley on a 318 even though the 1968 parts book clearly stated that the 318/383/440 all has this pulley ONLY in 1968. After that ONLY the Hemi's had it... Well you can guess how expensive that drop was since the world believes only Hemi's use this pulley.....
The new (used) one should be here this week. I will need the old one pulled off and then the new one pressed on, with the care and precision like it was made of gold....
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
A day of odds and ends... Spent a few hours this morning finishing up the bead blasting that I did not finish yesterday because of the wind and headache. After cleaning up I bought another bottle of Presta Step 1 cutting paste so I buffed out the right front fender and half the hood. It was too hot in the sun to do this so I stopped...
I have bought a set of headlight adjusters from Classic so I decided to install the headlights and clean the chrome trim. They went in HARD. I ended up breaking the tabs off the plastic part on all be 2 of them. The tabs had no real structural or use so it was not a big deal. Installed the lights. I was struggling with one of them and realized it was the wrong part number.... One of the high beams had the dimple in the wrong place and would not set in the headlight cup. I got out the die grinder and ground off the glass alignment nub that was in the wrong place (2 of them lined up correctly). Yes it is a hack but it will work for now. I don't even know if the lights work!
Then turned my attention to degreasing the parts I blasted and painting them with either SEM Satin Black or natural metal with Seymours Stainless Steel paint... Quite a pile of goodies I finished this weekend!
There are only a few items left to blast but they will be some of the last things that I need to have and will take some $$$ to get working again (AC) and the radiator. The air cleaner won't fit anymore with the Edelbrock 4 barrel manifold.
I cleaned up the garage to prepare for some major reassembly over the next few weeks.
I also hung up a light over the table so maybe I can work on restoring some items in the evening when it is dark...
So what item should I start with to rebuild? I plan to document rebuilding these items so if anyone has a preference for me to start with let me know!
I have bought a set of headlight adjusters from Classic so I decided to install the headlights and clean the chrome trim. They went in HARD. I ended up breaking the tabs off the plastic part on all be 2 of them. The tabs had no real structural or use so it was not a big deal. Installed the lights. I was struggling with one of them and realized it was the wrong part number.... One of the high beams had the dimple in the wrong place and would not set in the headlight cup. I got out the die grinder and ground off the glass alignment nub that was in the wrong place (2 of them lined up correctly). Yes it is a hack but it will work for now. I don't even know if the lights work!
Then turned my attention to degreasing the parts I blasted and painting them with either SEM Satin Black or natural metal with Seymours Stainless Steel paint... Quite a pile of goodies I finished this weekend!
There are only a few items left to blast but they will be some of the last things that I need to have and will take some $$$ to get working again (AC) and the radiator. The air cleaner won't fit anymore with the Edelbrock 4 barrel manifold.
I cleaned up the garage to prepare for some major reassembly over the next few weeks.
I also hung up a light over the table so maybe I can work on restoring some items in the evening when it is dark...
So what item should I start with to rebuild? I plan to document rebuilding these items so if anyone has a preference for me to start with let me know!
From the looks of it, I won't tell you I might have one at work. I am going to see tomorrow if I do....
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Do NOT tell me that. It is a 2095059, the hub that you use to pull it off is recessed into the dual pulley. The typical/later non-Hemi ones you can see the puller hub if you look at the pulley from the side as it sticks out beyond the pulleys, this one you can't. Oh and they are a bit over 3" around. The others are just under 3" (that is the reason it is possible to recess the puller flange it is bigger around).
Here is an aftermarket one...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/426-Race-Hemi-or-413-426-Max-Wedge-2-Groove-Alternator-Pulley/291818189840?_trksid=p2047675.c100012.m1985&_trkparms=aid=777003&algo=DISCL.MBE&ao=1&asc=39107&meid=a693fefbca1c4ec9a96be13564e66260&pid=100012&rk=1&rkt=12&sd=161804604426
Last edited:
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Know what that is worth?
Until now, I would have thought $10 ish
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
If it has the part number I stated clearly stamped $175
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
If not I'll give you $10 and put the one I have back on eBay!
The complete number is hard to see, but 28757xx A previous removal attempt has messed up the last two
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
I'll leave the Hemi pulley. It will be a good story at car shows
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
See if Ray wants to do any mods to the tranny. He was not there to talk to.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
It took a lot to spend the $$$ on the FirmFeel upgrade I just sent out. Especially when the damn shipping is almost 1/3 the cost of the upgrade of this boat anchor gear. Tonight I followed an old Ford pickup and watching the driver rock the wheel back and forth continuously the whole way keeping it between the lines. My Civic cared not if I had my hands on the wheel. I am glad my gear is in Washinton state right now
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Incredible. Dick, Matt and Dennis at FirmFeel turned my steering gear in less than a day and a half. Arrived Wednesday afternoon shipped out Friday morning!
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Installed the new headliner today. Not too bad but I screwed up the dome light hole. I will need to make a small bracket to offset it a bit to cover the hole I cut in it...
Since there are tension bars on the rear bow start at the front. Pull the headliner tight and hook it on the tack pins in the center then work out to the ends. Cut small slits to allow the trim clips to pop through the liner.
Now go to the back and do the same until you get to the corners. Cut it so the corners do not buckle the material..
Make sure that the bow loops are not bottomed out on the bow clips. If they are use some scissors to clip the loops back a bit more so you can pull the sides tight and the material will slide on the bows. Clip a few of the original clips on to hold it in position.
I had installed the weatherstrip chrome rail but decided it is MUCH easier to install the headliner without it. I removed them both.
Now pull the liner tight to the sides and spray the roof rail and backside of headliner with trim spray. Be careful the headliner has the factory holes in it and the glue will seep through. Don't spray a wet coat on the liner. Use several light coats.
Once it dries pull the liner tight and roll it over the roof lip and clip it with lots of paper clamps. In the front corners cut relief notches and spray adhesive to the roof and headliner. Once dry trim and pull it tight.
Since there are tension bars on the rear bow start at the front. Pull the headliner tight and hook it on the tack pins in the center then work out to the ends. Cut small slits to allow the trim clips to pop through the liner.
Now go to the back and do the same until you get to the corners. Cut it so the corners do not buckle the material..
Make sure that the bow loops are not bottomed out on the bow clips. If they are use some scissors to clip the loops back a bit more so you can pull the sides tight and the material will slide on the bows. Clip a few of the original clips on to hold it in position.
I had installed the weatherstrip chrome rail but decided it is MUCH easier to install the headliner without it. I removed them both.
Now pull the liner tight to the sides and spray the roof rail and backside of headliner with trim spray. Be careful the headliner has the factory holes in it and the glue will seep through. Don't spray a wet coat on the liner. Use several light coats.
Once it dries pull the liner tight and roll it over the roof lip and clip it with lots of paper clamps. In the front corners cut relief notches and spray adhesive to the roof and headliner. Once dry trim and pull it tight.
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