threewood
Well-Known Member
What kind of glass cleaner did you use on your windows? So clean I can't even see reflections
1968 Coronet 500 Project
- Thread starter JimKueneman
- Start date
What kind of glass cleaner did you use on your windows? So clean I can't even see reflections
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
What kind of glass cleaner did you use on your windows? So clean I can't even see reflections
Bon ami with the buffer. You need to use a #0000000000000000 pad to get it this scratch free.
Interesting technique.
My Road Runner has all of it's original glass. The side windows could use some help, and the windshield could really use some help.
I was going to use a technique that my friend's dad always used at his body shop (and I had fair results doing this on another car). It was to take 0000 steel wool and rubbing alcohol and scrub the heck out of the glass, then (believe it, or not) take newspaper soaked in boiling hot water and sand away. Final step was glass wax and a buffer.
Maybe I'll try the Bon Ami technique instead?
What ? ! ? ! ? . . .
I think I have more fun fabricating the stuff than I do getting the stuff off the shelves and putting it on my car . . .
The I can do it the way "I want" . . . ( smile )
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Sorry Larry. I design and think all day. I just want to paint and assemble on the weekends.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Sucked it up and ordered the new dash harness from Year One. They had a 30% off sale and with all the $$$$ I have invested being cheap on a $350 harness to ensure no wiring problems in the future seemed like a gotta do. This puts the nail in the coffin for not starting it this or next weekend. I will be not get the harness till next week.
I think the new harness is a smart move and that price seems reasonable. I've seen so many nasty underdash issues with my friends cars that it is one less nightmare you can avoid.
I helped a friend a few years back bring a 64 1/2 mustang back to life, and he invested almost $1000 in wiring harnesses. That alone eliminated so many headaches.
I helped a friend a few years back bring a 64 1/2 mustang back to life, and he invested almost $1000 in wiring harnesses. That alone eliminated so many headaches.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
I will have about $800 total. Only a few small harnesses here and there that are not reproduced where reused.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Got bored last night with everyone in the house sick with the flu so I went out in the garage. Played around with mocking up the rest of the under hood parts to see what it all looks like. Ordered a new AC dryer so I can get the AC buttoned up after I paint the condenser Friday. Also wanted to see if the radiator hoses fit. Lower no problem upper is not really quite right but I guess getting a perfect fit is going to be impossible. They try to make one part to fit as many cars as then can in the aftermarket world.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Interesting how big blocks seem less cluttered by pulling the plug wires out of the back and to the front where there is not much going on.
dieseldazzle
Well-Known Member
Where did you have your air conditioning hoses restored or sourced from Jim?
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Those are the originals I bead blasted and cleaned. Gonna see if how they work with the R134. Supposedly being soaked in Mineral oil for decades makes them not leak with the finer molecules of 134. We will see.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
dieseldazzle did you see this:
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/steering-column-and-ps-gear.126402/#post-910618951
Am I lined up and on the only way it can go?
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/steering-column-and-ps-gear.126402/#post-910618951
Am I lined up and on the only way it can go?
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Ok dash is stripped down, what a PIA that was. It is never clear exactly what you get with the Year One harnesses so I won't be pulling it all out until I get the new one and see. The Radio Front/Rear speaker fader is interesting. It almost looks aftermarket as it is soldered and taped in. Maybe that is how it was done back then. I should get the build sheet out from the seat and see if there is something there. I WILL be making sure all the switches work flawlessly I don't have any intention of replacing them while the dash is IN the car... Photos to follow.
Do yourself a big favor and flush all switches with DeOxIt. Really blast the rheostat with lots of spray. Let them sit overnight and then spray with DeOxIt fader lube. Cycle the switches many times and fader lube once more.
I could write a book on what DeOxIt has brought back to life.
I could write a book on what DeOxIt has brought back to life.
MNBiker
Well-Known Member
I agree on the deoxit. Use it at work and home. It is an amazing contact cleaner.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Where do I buy it in Tucson?
Elliott Electronics has it, but the price is 50% higher than what you'd get on eBay. I just received my new can from a eBay seller last week. I use the stuff almost as much as windex in that Greek movie.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
The family has been sick with the flu for the past 10 days. I thought I was going to skirt it. I can feel it starting to hit me.....
Ok Thursday night I stripped down the dash ready for the new Year One harness. I spent a lot of time agonizing over it but after pulling it out I am glad I made the decision.
Spent yesterday combing the condenser to get the fins looking presentable after 49 years of people touching it. Wanted to paint it yesterday but it was too cold and windy. Today would have been great but I did not feel like it.
Started looking at one of the center vents. It did not not work right. After looking at it I saw that one of the vanes the "melted plastic keeper" has snapped off and was loose. I don't have good photos but what happens is the vanes are connected by a metal bar with holes in it (see photos). The plastic vanes have a pivot pin that goes through the metal bar then the assembler would melt the end of the pins end to put a fillet on it so the bar can't come off. The 49 year old plastic is brittle where it was melted. I took the vent apart and then uses some of the model railroad building tools to drill out the pins and install a brass tube that is the right diameter. Once the epoxy is dry I will install the bar and cut the brass bars off to effectively create a new metal pin for the metal bar.
Ok Thursday night I stripped down the dash ready for the new Year One harness. I spent a lot of time agonizing over it but after pulling it out I am glad I made the decision.
Spent yesterday combing the condenser to get the fins looking presentable after 49 years of people touching it. Wanted to paint it yesterday but it was too cold and windy. Today would have been great but I did not feel like it.
Started looking at one of the center vents. It did not not work right. After looking at it I saw that one of the vanes the "melted plastic keeper" has snapped off and was loose. I don't have good photos but what happens is the vanes are connected by a metal bar with holes in it (see photos). The plastic vanes have a pivot pin that goes through the metal bar then the assembler would melt the end of the pins end to put a fillet on it so the bar can't come off. The 49 year old plastic is brittle where it was melted. I took the vent apart and then uses some of the model railroad building tools to drill out the pins and install a brass tube that is the right diameter. Once the epoxy is dry I will install the bar and cut the brass bars off to effectively create a new metal pin for the metal bar.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
While trying to find the parts that I knew I put on the floor under the dash (finally found them the wind blew them under the shelves in the front of the garage) I got out the buffer and buffed the $hit out of the car for the final buffing. I finally gained confidence in my ability and "cranked up the RPM". It is smooth as silk now..... The paint is DONE.
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