showard
Well-Known Member
Holy Cow!! That looks beautiful in that spring Arizona sun.
1968 Coronet 500 Project
- Thread starter JimKueneman
- Start date
Looks great Jim, You did a beautiful job , start to finish.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Finished up the AC vent I fixed.
Cut off the brass tubing so it fits in the vent. I left them way longer than the original plastic pins so I did not have to be so fussy with keeping the tie rod on.
Install the vanes with the spring keeper to put tension on them.
Install the throw rod. Note the only way it can fall off is if I flipped it upside down. In normal operation it can't fall off
A little Plastidip on the ends of the rods puts some black on the brass rod to make them disappear and is plenty to keep the rod from falling off.
Faux chrome refresh on the ends of the vent. Sprayed on silver self etching primer (masked it off) and then some Krylon "chrome" paint. I then mixed up the SPI Universal clear after it dried a day and brushed on a few coats to make is shine and give it some durability, the Krylon is not that tough.
Cut off the brass tubing so it fits in the vent. I left them way longer than the original plastic pins so I did not have to be so fussy with keeping the tie rod on.
Install the vanes with the spring keeper to put tension on them.
Install the throw rod. Note the only way it can fall off is if I flipped it upside down. In normal operation it can't fall off
A little Plastidip on the ends of the rods puts some black on the brass rod to make them disappear and is plenty to keep the rod from falling off.
Faux chrome refresh on the ends of the vent. Sprayed on silver self etching primer (masked it off) and then some Krylon "chrome" paint. I then mixed up the SPI Universal clear after it dried a day and brushed on a few coats to make is shine and give it some durability, the Krylon is not that tough.
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JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Woot! New Dash Harness came. Will have a tutorial on transferring the accessory harness over to the new main harness in the next few days. There is a bit of work to do. Bob at Glen-Ray says my radiator should ship on Friday.... Are we having a starting party at my house next weekend boys!
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Very nice,
I saw it in another thread in the Resto-Mod forum, I think it was,
I had to check it out
I saw it in another thread in the Resto-Mod forum, I think it was,
I had to check it out
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
New speakers on their way from
http://www.turnswitch.com/
Now if billccm can get the FM on my radio up to snuff with the new capacitors I am in business....
http://www.turnswitch.com/
Now if billccm can get the FM on my radio up to snuff with the new capacitors I am in business....
They have not built a radio yet that I couldn't get up to snuff. If caps don't do it I will figure it out!
(Disclaimer: I may need a schematic and blow the dust off ye ol'10MHz scope)
(Disclaimer: I may need a schematic and blow the dust off ye ol'10MHz scope)
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JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
The guy at Electo Tech warned me if I drive the car in mountains where there is a lot of multi path I will quickly learn to hate that analog FM. He agrees the AM is rocking but not the FM.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
I was partially assembled on the dash so I will start from where I was. The first thing to install is the vent assembly for AC cars.
Then install the pad with 4 #10 screws. There is a little adjustment, put it in the middle of the slot.
There are nuts on the back of the pad to hold it to the dash frame.
Now install the frame around the vents. There are very, very, very shallow lips that grab the edge of the plastic vent frame. It is easy to not get it centered and bind on the vent so it won't rotate. As you tighten the face screws keep moving the vents to make sure you keep it all centered.
Now it is WAY easier to install the faceplate if you remove the switches shown. NOTE the speaker fader must be installed before this plate goes on.
Then install the brass coated screws, I forgot the rear defogger switch/fader cover here but I remembered it soon after.
Now install the switches from the back
Then install the pad with 4 #10 screws. There is a little adjustment, put it in the middle of the slot.
There are nuts on the back of the pad to hold it to the dash frame.
Now install the frame around the vents. There are very, very, very shallow lips that grab the edge of the plastic vent frame. It is easy to not get it centered and bind on the vent so it won't rotate. As you tighten the face screws keep moving the vents to make sure you keep it all centered.
Now it is WAY easier to install the faceplate if you remove the switches shown. NOTE the speaker fader must be installed before this plate goes on.
Then install the brass coated screws, I forgot the rear defogger switch/fader cover here but I remembered it soon after.
Now install the switches from the back
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Install the fader knob and the front is done.
So here is the new Year One dash harness and AC harness. Clearly my car had more options that added more wiring to create the rats nest I took out. The Year One basic harness is nice and clean and linear.
Original rats nest.
i
We can see lots of extra stuff in the fuse box for my 500 options.
Starting with the basics. Here is how the base harness is installed in the dash through the loops.
Up to here it is all obvious. Not sure if it is because of the 3 speed motor but I could not figure this out without a wiring diagram and an ohm meter. There are 3 brown wires and 1 brown/white wire that are single wires to single pins on the wiper and washer switch. I can tell you now that the brown/white goes to the bottom pin on the wiper switch and the brown in the wiper switch bundle goes to the other terminal. There are 2 brown wires in a separate bundle (taped together) and they go to the washer switch, order unimportant
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
More detail of the blinker and hazard flasher connections along with the lighter.
Plugged in the new AC harness and decided I was done for the night as I need to pull some of the parts out of the original fuse box to install this harness.
Plugged in the new AC harness and decided I was done for the night as I need to pull some of the parts out of the original fuse box to install this harness.
threewood
Well-Known Member
What would you charge to refresh the stock radio in my 62 Belvedere? It works fine but sometimes fades on its own. And I bet it is coated in dust.
threewood
Well-Known Member
Could you take a good shot of the back of your fuse box when you get there? I need to double check mine has the wires in the correct spot as some of the light wires were free floating when I got it.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
There is one above. What do you need that is different? What is the fundamental question. It is becoming clear as to the design philosophy of this electrical system.
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Send me a PM with your model number and we can discuss. I'll look to see if I can get a schematic (sometimes antique radio forum guys will scan for free).
"Fade" after warm could be as simple as a capacitor. Can't recall if 1962 radios were hybrids (tubes and transistors). If any tubes your problem could be just a tube. Fortunately, the tubes are available and plentiful. Unfortunately most sellers charge $$$ for replacement tubes.
threewood
Well-Known Member
I had a stack of pink wires all connected to each other for the light package that were disconnected because a wire was shorted back to the trunk. My fuse box has 5 slots, one empty. My fsm doesn't make sense how everything is suppose to be connected. I do have a spare 6 slot fuse box I could use if I need an extra sl
Crap, found the pics of the back above...perfect. I really need coffee. Thanks.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
No instructions but match the factory original connectors and wire colors.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Yes all the accessory lights go to the one fuse as shown with pink wires and all AC stuff goes to the AC fuse with green wires. Quite simple and logical.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Ok here we go.... the new fuse box did not have the insert for the AC fuse so I had to remove it from the old one. A small screw driver from the face on each side of the insert releases it so it will pull out the back.
Now pop in into the new few box.
The AC harness plugs into the fuse clip with the green and the black/white coming from the main harness
Now we need put the flying leads in the bulkhead connector. Blue in "A" and Green in "B". This is what engages the clutch in the compressor.
This bundle connects to the resistor block in the AC box
This connects to the delay valve in the bottom of the AC Box under the passengers side.
First accessory harness pulled off the old rats nest, what is it for?
Eureka it is for the coveted rear window defogger!
Now pop in into the new few box.
The AC harness plugs into the fuse clip with the green and the black/white coming from the main harness
Now we need put the flying leads in the bulkhead connector. Blue in "A" and Green in "B". This is what engages the clutch in the compressor.
This bundle connects to the resistor block in the AC box
This connects to the delay valve in the bottom of the AC Box under the passengers side.
First accessory harness pulled off the old rats nest, what is it for?
Eureka it is for the coveted rear window defogger!
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