BeeKool
Well-Known Member
I like that. May go with one like yours
1968 Coronet 500 Project
- Thread starter JimKueneman
- Start date
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
OH YEA, OH YEA, OH YEA!!!!!!!!!
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Working.
Headlights, all but one marker light (seems like the new Year One harness problem but too dark to debug), console lights, map light, glove box light, ash tray light, key light (but timer never turn it off), radio light, dash lights, 3 speeds on the wiper motor, 3 speeds on the blower motor, AC clutch locks up, the ever so important in Arizona rear window defogger works, brake lights, turn signals, hazard flasher, radio (but does not get any stations in the garage), oil light, parking brake light
What is not Working.
Trunk light (not hooked up yet)
Gas gauge (not hooked up yet)
right hand fender top turn signal (forgot to buy bulbs for them, duh) - FIXED
right front marker light - FIXED
Dome light (not hooked up need to find the wire in the window post)
Backup light (the switch on the console shifter is cracked will need to fix)
I can't believe this is all that does not work. I am in awe!
Headlights, all but one marker light (seems like the new Year One harness problem but too dark to debug), console lights, map light, glove box light, ash tray light, key light (but timer never turn it off), radio light, dash lights, 3 speeds on the wiper motor, 3 speeds on the blower motor, AC clutch locks up, the ever so important in Arizona rear window defogger works, brake lights, turn signals, hazard flasher, radio (but does not get any stations in the garage), oil light, parking brake light
What is not Working.
Trunk light (not hooked up yet)
Gas gauge (not hooked up yet)
right hand fender top turn signal (forgot to buy bulbs for them, duh) - FIXED
right front marker light - FIXED
Dome light (not hooked up need to find the wire in the window post)
Backup light (the switch on the console shifter is cracked will need to fix)
I can't believe this is all that does not work. I am in awe!
Last edited:
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Someone needs to keep me out of the garage! Ok brake light switch adjusted and brake lights working now. Backup light switch is disassembled, cleaned up and the JB Weld is curing to fix the cracked ceramic case. All the parts were still there so I can assemble it tomorrow.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Right fender top blinker and Right front marker light fixed. Corrosion causing bad grounding in the housing. Needed some TLC and DeOxit.
Glenwood
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the only cure for your mopar affliction is to sell it i'm afraid!
JimKueneman
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So when will you be here with $30k to pick it up?
Don't temp us, Jim...........
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
JimKueneman
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Busy night! Assembled the backup light switch. It was clear the ceramic body was super brittle. I ended up coating the entire thing in JB Weld to give it strength..
It is a cute little design. The bar slides back and forth and when over the 2 tabs in the body it shorts them completing the circuit to the bulbs.
All installed and adjusted with the shifter linkage installed and torqued.
Worked on getting the rearward going wires cleaned up. My understanding is the plastic chase is not reproduced and boy it should be. Without it making those wires clean past the parking brake would be painful.
Finished up by installing the Delco Weatherloc on the 10 gauge coming from the fuel pump to connect to my dash harness.
All done ready to button it up once I am sure I am done rolling the dash forward.
What else now works!
Backup lights.
Horn.
Trunk Light.
Fuel Gauge wires finished.
Dome Light.
Windshield Washer.
Power to ignition resistor and coil.
I now have everything from the firewall back working!
Rest of the week is getting the FiTech wiring under the hood done, check the starter relay and neutral safety switch.
Radiator was sent from Glen-ray yesterday and should be here on Thursday.
I will be ready to start this thing on Saturday or Sunday at the latest at this rate!
It is a cute little design. The bar slides back and forth and when over the 2 tabs in the body it shorts them completing the circuit to the bulbs.
All installed and adjusted with the shifter linkage installed and torqued.
Worked on getting the rearward going wires cleaned up. My understanding is the plastic chase is not reproduced and boy it should be. Without it making those wires clean past the parking brake would be painful.
Finished up by installing the Delco Weatherloc on the 10 gauge coming from the fuel pump to connect to my dash harness.
All done ready to button it up once I am sure I am done rolling the dash forward.
What else now works!
Backup lights.
Horn.
Trunk Light.
Fuel Gauge wires finished.
Dome Light.
Windshield Washer.
Power to ignition resistor and coil.
I now have everything from the firewall back working!
Rest of the week is getting the FiTech wiring under the hood done, check the starter relay and neutral safety switch.
Radiator was sent from Glen-ray yesterday and should be here on Thursday.
I will be ready to start this thing on Saturday or Sunday at the latest at this rate!
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JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Not needed. It came apart to pieces I could polish with steel wool and metal polish.
Its the Z MAX of contact cleaners. It cleans, coats, protects against corrosion, increases contact life, reduces resistance, adds coulombs to the current, etc, etc.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Wow, Bob sent it Monday afternoon from Wisconsin and it arrived today! It is a perfect replica with all factory lettering and he date coded it for me like the original. Not sure there is any reason to send him the original someday..... Glen-ray is the place to go for radiators and heater cores.
It was a perfect evening till I tried to install it (after repairing a crack in the shroud). It is clear why the side bracket was broken free on the original. The cross frame under the radiator is twisted a bit so the radiator hit it and you have to press down on it to get the bolts in. Too much tension on the brackets. I tried to bend it with a block of wood and hammer. Barely moved it and it was getting dark. Need to rethink it when there is more light.
My Summit order came in too, no more bouncy bouncy!
It was a perfect evening till I tried to install it (after repairing a crack in the shroud). It is clear why the side bracket was broken free on the original. The cross frame under the radiator is twisted a bit so the radiator hit it and you have to press down on it to get the bolts in. Too much tension on the brackets. I tried to bend it with a block of wood and hammer. Barely moved it and it was getting dark. Need to rethink it when there is more light.
My Summit order came in too, no more bouncy bouncy!
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
I used connector grease as there is a lot of mechanical movement in this switch.
threewood
Well-Known Member
I don't even think I would install that radiator, just put it in a glass case and look at it. Beautiful!!!!!
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Good grief Glenwood "I got a fever and the only prescription is more Coronet!"
I ended up back in the garage did a bit of sheet metal tweaking and the radiator and shroud are installed....
I ended up back in the garage did a bit of sheet metal tweaking and the radiator and shroud are installed....
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Mmmmm small glass case with a radiator inside the big glass case with the Coronet..... Starting to sound like art....
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Final frustration on the upper radiator hose. Looked up the part number in the old '68 parts book and found an expensive NOS one in South Carolina. Ordered it. At least I will have an original template to take to a parts department to try to match up something closer than the AC Delco that is suppose to fit. It does but it clearly is a crossover that is made to replace numerous part numbers of hose. It needs to be about 2" longer in one direction to move it towards the left about 2".
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