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1968 Plymouth GTX

Odd that many places offer complete seal kits for the heater box and not one of them thought to produce the now 55 year old seal on the vent.
I don't think that seal was designed to be replaced. I believe the part # for it is the flopper and seal as one. It is really bonded to the metal. I always blast the door and just tape off the rubber before painting.
 
I don't think that seal was designed to be replaced. I believe the part # for it is the flopper and seal as one. It is really bonded to the metal. I always blast the door and just tape off the rubber before painting.
Mine was in pretty bad shape. I tried removing it thinking I could repair it but that didn't work. And you are right, it is really bonded to the metal. I even used 3M adhesive remover but it didn't seem to touch it.
 
Do you have a source for the flapper and seal part?
No, I have had some spare boxes in the past and robbed the doors from them when I needed something better. Start a wanted thread, I bet someone on here has one they would sell.
 
I found one on eBay.
Now I need the temperature control door. :( Turns out the bent portion that the cable hooks to is broken off on mine.
Temperature Cable Clamp.JPG


If anyone has a picture of the part, that will help as I may need to repair this one.
 
Another question for y'all.

I am redoing my dash pad and before recovering it I wanted to check the fit. My question concerns where the end of the dash pad goes under the A-pillar molding. How big of a gap should there be?

Looked at some pictures like this one but really couldn't judge the distance. I looks like it could be 3/16 to 1/4" if viewed straight on.
68 GTX Hemi Survivor.jpg
 
On my GTX it’s about 1/4” on each side…
 
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Thanks. That's about what I had on the test fit with no vinyl, so everything should be okay.
 
Some progress on the dash pad restoration.
Started with this:
Original Dash Pad top.JPG


Removed the loose vinyl and foam (a dirty and time consuming job) and then filled the cracks and voids with expandable foam. Removed the excess with a saw blade and sanded the foam level to the surface.
From there I applied filler and sanded everything flat and smooth. It took repeated coats of filler due to deformed areas through out the pad.
Prepped for new vinyl.jpg


I have enough vinyl for three tries at getting it right. If everything goes as I hope it will, then I plan to restore this other old pad I saved from my signature car and then selling it.
As you can see it is in much worse condition and may require installing new foam as well:
Top.JPG
 
I think it turned out pretty good.
New Vinyl.jpg


New Vinyl Back Side.JPG


Now if I could only find the right color paint for it.
 
I'm assuming losing the step detail on the upper front edge of the pad was deleted because it would be hard to get the vinyl to stay bonded?

Whatever the case your pad looks damn good...
 
I tried to keep it but the old pad was such a mess, especially after hacking all that hard, brittle vinyl off, that I couldn't get it to look uniform.
 
I tried to keep it but the old pad was such a mess, especially after hacking all that hard, brittle vinyl off, that I couldn't get it to look uniform.
I think the way to accomplish carving the contour into the foam would be to create a jig that guides a cutter & the best way to cut foam is with a hot knife...

But honestly it looks great without the contour so as usual I'm over thinking it... :lol:
 
I think the way to accomplish carving the contour into the foam would be to create a jig that guides a cutter & the best way to cut foam is with a hot knife...

But honestly it looks great without the contour so as usual I'm over thinking it... :lol:
I tried to find a close up of the repo dash pads showing the step, but most only give you distance shots of their products.
 
I tried to find a close up of the repo dash pads showing the step, but most only give you distance shots of their products.
If you'd like I can get you close up detail shots off mine... It's an uncracked original..
 
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