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1968 Plymouth GTX

The bolts are 1/4" I'm thinking the square holes in the body with the floating plate behind them are about 5/8", they could be closer to 1/2" which would only allow 1/4" of movement.... Either way it moves quite a bit...
 
I loosened the striker bolts all the way and then moved it outward. That did the trick.
Followed the same pattern with the passenger door, except it had an extra shim.

For some reason the passenger door striker is missing a fastening screw. I'll have to check the local hardware to see if they have one that will work.
 
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I am installing the brake lines and when I check my disassembly photos I see this retaining clip but don't find anything like it in my parts bag.
Anyone know what it is or looks like?

Brake Line Rear Routing 2.JPG
 
Yep and on my a body i forgot to install it couldn’t get it in afteR floor board install. That’s a later thing to get to. Good luck.
 
Right in front of where the speedometer cable passes through the firewall…
IMG_4585.jpeg
 
Struggling with a decision about EFI or simply rebuilding the Holley 4 barrel carb that came with the car.
Since I need to get the fuel tank installed and it needs a new sending unit, now would be the time to decide if I should upgrade.

I know the EFI systems are expensive but I won't need to purchase the actual system until I start on the engine rebuild. Right now it would be whether I go with an in the tank pump set up or just a new sending unit?

I have a friend who highly advocates for the Edlebrock Victor series but it seems many prefer the Holley EFI System.
 
Sticking with the carb.

Worked on the lower grill panel these last few days. I took a lot of hammer and dolly work as it was part of the front end damage on the car when I got it.
Front damage.jpg


Bottom Panel in Clear.JPG
 
Pulled the brake drums, media blasted and painted them.
Brake Drums Blasted and Painted.JPG


Removed the brake pads and hardware:
Brake Pads and Hardware Rusted.jpg


Ran one side through the blast cabinet and wire wheel to see if I could salvage them:
Brake Pads and Hardware Media Blasted.jpg


Turned out pretty decent so on to the other side.
 
Wheel cylinder removed:
Wheel Cylinder Removed.JPG


Needs a bit of cleaning:
Wheel Cylinder Inside.JPG


Wheel cylinder pistons.JPG


Got the outside cleaned up and ran a hone through the center.
Wheel cylinder cleaned up.jpg


Looking at how dirty these are makes it clear I need to take a look inside the rear axle as well.
 
Rear axle was pretty dirty and rusted:
Axle Assembly.JPG


Media blasted the rear axle housing and applied two coats of black epoxy primer. Also duplicated the factory marking:

Rear Axle Factory Mark Duplicated.JPG


Cleaned up the brake lines and got them reinstalled:
Rear Axle Painted.JPG


Waiting for the wheel cylinder rebuild kit and then I can get the brakes and wheel drums installed.

It looks like these traction bars were welded onto the bottom plates. Thinking I may be able to cut them off and salvage the original parts.
Traction Bars.JPG

U Bolt Plate.JPG
 
There's nothing original on those traction bars...
Original parts....

100_0346.JPG
 
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Got the wheel cylinders rebuild kit installed and then installed the brakes and drums. The brake lines were run through a wheel wire for clean up, blown clear with compressed air and reinstalled.
The wheels and tires are what came with the car and will be replace later on.
Brakes, Drums and Wheels Installed.JPG
 
Got the wheel cylinders rebuild kit installed and then installed the brakes and drums. The brake lines were run through a wheel wire for clean up, blown clear with compressed air and reinstalled.
The wheels and tires are what came with the car and will be replace later on.
View attachment 1578545
Holy meats!! lol
 
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