1968 Plymouth GTX

[Black_Sheep]

Okay, thanks.
I doesn't surprise me as there is a lot on this car they do not reproduce or if they do, I cannot afford it.

Same with the ’69 although it’s a lot better than it was 25 years ago…

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Here's what was on there when I got it. There was only one side that had it.

I'm trying to find the 8-32 x 3/8" flat head screws that hold the 440 call out emblem in place. I see places selling them with the new emblems but not listed seperately.

 

[Black_Sheep]

Here's what was on there when I got it. There was only one side that had it.
View attachment 1561655

I guess the center doesn’t need to be open if there’s no Air Grabber. It looks kind of frail so finding used ones in decent condition would probably be almost impossible. If you just want to avoid paint to paint contact the one I posted last night would work.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I'm trying to find the 8-32 x 3/8" flat head screws that hood the 440 call out emblem in place. I see places selling them with the new emblems but not listed seperately.

Follow the link...

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

I guess the center doesn’t need to be open if there’s no Air Grabber. It looks kind of frail so finding used ones in decent condition would probably be almost impossible. If you just want to avoid paint to paint contact the one I posted last night would work.

Already ordered them. Thanks

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Follow the link...

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

Yes, I looked there but didn't see the correct head diameter. The originals were only 3/16" (.1875) and the smallest I saw listed were 5/16" (.312).
Trim parts sells the 383 call out emblems and includes a package of screws that look correct. Tried searching for just the screws but haven't had any luck yet.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Yes, I looked there but didn't see the correct head diameter. The originals were only 3/16" (.1875) and the smallest I saw listed were 5/16" (.312).
Trim parts sells the 383 call out emblems and includes a package of screws that look correct. Tried searching for just the screws but haven't had any luck yet.

Extra info, reduced head diameter screws do exist but an 8-32 might be tough to find... Especially in black oxide... If you don't mind painting them it wouldn't be hard to modify a few standard screws in a lathe...

 

[gtx6970]

Originals were a 8-32 with a #6 head

 

[Pistol Pete]

If only they were in stock....

1968 Roadrunner or GTX Hood Call Out Screw Kit

Hood callout, hood call out screw, air, grabber, n96, hood, 68, roadrunner, call, out, emblem, 68, gtx, badge

www.partsmix.com

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Wet sanding the clear on hood.

First round was with 1000 grit using a hard block (piece of Oak about 1 1/2" wide, 5" long and 3/4" thick). It is easy to see progress because the surface is dull with no shiny spots.

The second round is 1500 grit using a soft block. The goal is to remove all the 1000 grit scratches so I use 3M Dry Guide coat.
You can see how it highlights the scratches I missed.

I will do the same with the 2000 grit and then go to buffing.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Wet sanding the clear on hood.

First round was with 1000 grit using a hard block (piece of Oak about 1 1/2" wide, 5" long and 3/4" thick). It is easy to see progress because the surface is dull with no shiny spots.

The second round is 1500 grit using a soft block. The goal is to remove all the 1000 grit scratches so I use 3M Dry Guide coat.
You can see how it highlights the scratches I missed.

View attachment 1562211

View attachment 1562213

I will do the same with the 2000 grit and then go to buffing.

Have you ever tried the Trizact system? My buddy who's done this stuff for 40 plus years likes to cut initially with conventional color sanding materials to knock down the biggest texture then change over to the Trizact DA paper..

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Have you ever tried the Trizact system? My buddy who's done this stuff for 40 plus years likes to cut initially with conventional color sanding materials to knock down the biggest texture then change over to the Trizact DA paper..

Yes, however on this car I feel more comfortable doing it by hand.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Callouts repainted.
Not perfect but will look good from 10 feet. LOL

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Passenger door and fender cut and buffed.

This is after buffing with twisted wool pad on a rotary buffer with Meguiars M100. I will follow this up with Chemical Guys V36 and then Menzerna 3800.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Passenger door and fender finished buffed.

Hood inserts installed:

Front emblem installed:

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

I started installing the door handles and catch today but ran into a problem When I close the door it does seem to latch but has a lot of slack in it and the door will stick out 1/4".
I moved the catch in as far as it will go to get the 1/4" and then moved it outward to see if it wasn't fully latched and might pull in more. Nothing changed. That catch doesn't have a not of movement.
Any suggestions?

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I started installing the door handles and catch today but ran into a problem When I close the door it does seem to latch but has a lot of slack in it and the door will stick out 1/4".
I moved the catch in as far as it will go to get the 1/4" and then moved it outward to see if it wasn't fully latched and might pull in more. Nothing changed. That catch doesn't have a not of movement.
Any suggestions?

It needs to click twice... If it doesn't either the striker needs to come out further or the latch has an issue....
I put tape above, below & behind the striker before moving it so I have a reference as to where it was & what changes I've made...

I'm assuming you have new seals? some don't compress well & cause problems... I suspect you know all these things but....

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

I thought maybe it should click twice but wasn't sure. Thanks for letting me know.
No door seals on at the moment, they are on order.
I did the tape thing as well on the striker but I don't see any adjustment on the latch on the door. I will take a closer look at the catch tomorrow.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

The striker holds all the adjustments... The latch just latches... Or doesn't... It does need to click twice... On the striker once you loosen the screws it should move about 3/8" in & out plus up and down... It can be hard to notice that it's to high or low & the striker won't go fully into the latch.... Also the striker may need to be shimmed out from the body...

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

I will give it another go tomorrow. I don't think I have 3/8" movement on the striker so I'll start there.