1969 GTX....The T stands for tetanus
- Thread starter threewood
- Start date
threewood
Well-Known Member
I'll take pics on my progress and I will get started on it Monday morning.
Moparstyle
Well-Known Member
Very nice new toys
threewood
Well-Known Member
Very nice new toys
Thanks. This was one of the "do it at a later date" items, along with a possible a/c install and a Six Pak hood. I'll try and take plenty of pics of installation....but I am not looking forward to the mess of disassembly.
moparnation74
Well-Known Member
Very very nice and look forward to the updates on your install!
Glenwood
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 2:43 PM
- Joined
- Jun 19, 2015
- Messages
- 2,929
- Reaction score
- 2,850
- Location
- Kawartha Lakes, Ontario
Me too! This is on my to do list.
threewood
Well-Known Member
Driver side is finished, took me 2 hours. No real issues, the upper ball joint takes some work but it came out fine. I will say test fit the outer taper bearing on the spindle as mine would not go on because of a burr.
Out with the old. Jacked up, jack stands. I moved the jack stand under the lower control arm to keep it up while I R&R'd the spindle/lower ball joint. Another issue was lining up the cotter pin holes with the castle nuts but I eventually got them aligned and installed.
New spindle installed...
Then I assembled the rotor, bearings and seal. I packed the bearings, layed it in the rotor and set the seal. The rotors come with the races installed...
Then I attached the caliper bracket using anti seize...
Splash shield (Bill told me I could delete this to aid in cooling so it is optional).
Next I installed the rotor assembly and filled the cavity with grease, installed the outer bearing, washer, nut, nut retainer, cotter pin and dust cap...
Caliper gets put into place after modifying the outer brake pads (bend over the tabs for a tight fit to caliper) and then the retainers and brake line. Now onto the next side...
Out with the old. Jacked up, jack stands. I moved the jack stand under the lower control arm to keep it up while I R&R'd the spindle/lower ball joint. Another issue was lining up the cotter pin holes with the castle nuts but I eventually got them aligned and installed.
New spindle installed...
Then I assembled the rotor, bearings and seal. I packed the bearings, layed it in the rotor and set the seal. The rotors come with the races installed...
Then I attached the caliper bracket using anti seize...
Splash shield (Bill told me I could delete this to aid in cooling so it is optional).
Next I installed the rotor assembly and filled the cavity with grease, installed the outer bearing, washer, nut, nut retainer, cotter pin and dust cap...
Caliper gets put into place after modifying the outer brake pads (bend over the tabs for a tight fit to caliper) and then the retainers and brake line. Now onto the next side...
Looking good, which kit? Looks just like my right stuff kit. Never mind I just saw Dr. Diff. Looks like the same caliper I have.
threewood
Well-Known Member
My knees are good so far. I have both sides finished and the distribution block installed. No issues with either although I spent 10 minutes dicking with the undersized chinesium dust cap. I hate new, not fitting parts. Car is back on the wheels, master cylinder is next.
threewood
Well-Known Member
That's what I ended up doing. It was so loose it wouldn't have stayed on out of the driveway.
So, master cylinder is in and connected. I need to loosen the brake light switch because the pedal sits higher now. But I am ready to bleed, just need to run out and get some DOT 3.
Master cylinder adaptor plate. Its aluminum with threaded holes and went together easily...
Master cylinder bled well on the bench...
Removing the brake rod....I used a small rebar handle through the hole and hit the opposite side with a hammer and it popped out...
And final product...
threewood
Well-Known Member
Don't beat yourself up, different strokes for different folks. I'm kind of hardheaded and jump right in and work until it's finished. And your videos helped
I think I have it licked. Drove it around and it stopped well, pedal was a little soft. So once back in the garage I tightened up a couple weeping fittings, did another round of bleeding on the front and got some air out. Pedal feels much nicer and has stayed there. I'll check it again in the morning but I think it is good.
Nice job! What size Master Cylinder did he recommend 15/16?
Kudos to you for a job well done and quickly. You know I had estimates for $1300 and $1500 just for labor, so that makes your work valuable.
Going from the rock hard drum pedal to the long travel disc pedal takes some time to get used to, but the stopping is improved by magnitudes.
Thanks for the information and pictures.
Going from the rock hard drum pedal to the long travel disc pedal takes some time to get used to, but the stopping is improved by magnitudes.
Thanks for the information and pictures.
threewood
Well-Known Member
Just confirmed a firm pedal after letting it sit overnight. Feels good and no leaks.
Now I have to try and get the alignment adjusted. Just using a level on the face of the rim shows 4-5° negative camber on both sides. When I drove it last night it was pulling to the left, steering had to be held right to keep it straight. I'll go monkey with that now even though I'm sore from the work I did yesterday, getting too for this lol.
Now I have to try and get the alignment adjusted. Just using a level on the face of the rim shows 4-5° negative camber on both sides. When I drove it last night it was pulling to the left, steering had to be held right to keep it straight. I'll go monkey with that now even though I'm sore from the work I did yesterday, getting too for this lol.
threewood
Well-Known Member
I chose the 15/16" because he said it is an easier but longer push and he was right. They don't feel like manual brakes and stopping takes much less power now.
I adjusted my camber with a level and carpenter square and got it pretty close to what the service manual has listed. It tracks straight but the wheel is tilted to pass side 10 degrees so I will adjust the tie rods to get it straight. Very happy with everything.
BTW can you share with us your technique to place that upper right nut on the master cylinder mounting stud?
Other than hearing that it's difficult I never really hear how it's done. I actually taped the nut to my fingertip to get it started on the threads.
Other than hearing that it's difficult I never really hear how it's done. I actually taped the nut to my fingertip to get it started on the threads.
Similar threads
- Locked
