OhioMopar
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Here are pics under my Bee. Should be the same.
1969 Road Runner....another one!
- Thread starter Capt-Culver
- Start date
Capt-Culver
Well-Known Member
Thanks Darren...Appreciate it!
Dako
Well-Known Member
Rule#1
Never discard anything coming off the car until you have it all back together...
Capt-Culver
Well-Known Member
Thanks...I learned my lesson on this one. Being my first build, I knew I was going to make mistakes...just glad this one wasn't too bad.
On another note, I have my K-member tore apart. The center link that connects the idler arm, pitman arm and tie rods....my pictures don't clearly show the center link position. Does the center link bend down and toward the K-member....or down and away from the k-member?
Capt-Culver
Well-Known Member
Capt-Culver
Well-Known Member
Also, I have another question. This car has 11 inch drum brakes in the rear and 10 inch in the front....was that common?
GearAddict
Well-Known Member
Looking good.
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Cap... for all 69 RR's I think it should have had 11's on the front? If I recall, 11's and a sway bar were 2 of the defining features of the RR that were stock compared to a Belvedere or Satty, where they were options...
I should add that I'm a relative noob at this, so I might be wrong.
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Cap... for all 69 RR's I think it should have had 11's on the front? If I recall, 11's and a sway bar were 2 of the defining features of the RR that were stock compared to a Belvedere or Satty, where they were options...
I should add that I'm a relative noob at this, so I might be wrong.
Capt-Culver
Well-Known Member
Haha....yea, me too....thus all the questions. I've figured out that this car isn't as difficult as I thought it would be. However, I got this car in pieces.....and it's a bit harder to figure things out if I didn't physically remove the parts. The parts I remove, I can put back together.
Propwash
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I'd agree...My Bird and Coronet are 11" all around cars. 11's in the Front & Rear. When you think about brake proportioning, your fronts brake about 70% of your total braking. I can't see Mopar putting on a smaller brake in the front, because that would definitely be working against the concept of keeping a majority of braking up front. Keep up the good work!
Capt-Culver
Well-Known Member
Completely agree that most of the breaking is done up front. They should probably be standard on 440 / Hemi cars....but wasn't sure if they were an option for the 383 cars. And even if it was optioned, not suer why the original owner would only upgrade the rear. At any rate...disk brakes will be going up front at some point before the car gets on the road.
Propwash
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SOunds like a good idea. You might have some luck selling those front 10" brakes over at FABO. Those boys like to upgrade to the Large bolt pattern brakes. Their wheel options are severely limited by the 5 x 4" bolt pattern.
Capt-Culver
Well-Known Member
So, if I wanted to keep the front on a drum system, I would just need to upgrade the backing plate and drum, correct? Would I still be able to use the hub and spindle?
GearAddict
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I'll let others answer definetively (due to my noob status) but I think the spindles are the same. No hub in the mopar drums, as they use the drum itself to mount the studs to.
You will also need new wheel cylinders if I recall...I don't think they are the same from 10" to 11".
I just pulled mine off and am replacing with disc's If you need a complete backing plate assembly let me know. I have the drums too, of course, but you might not want them as the previous owner welded in longer wheel studs (the look a little funny unless you have thick rims with long wheel lugs).
Door bracket
I'm restoring my '69 Coronet and when removing that bracket I broke the same stud on both doors. Obviously a manufacturing defect. I'm going to drill out the broken ones and weld new ones in.
I'm restoring my '69 Coronet and when removing that bracket I broke the same stud on both doors. Obviously a manufacturing defect. I'm going to drill out the broken ones and weld new ones in.
I was able to get a couple of hours in the garage today and stripped the doors... found a lot of bondo and rust, not sure if I'll be able to save them.
On a side note, I broke a couple of studs today. Does anyone know if there is an aftermarket provider for this support bracket that came out of the door?
And before they were blasted....yuck!
Basket case
Well-Known Member
yeah spindles are the same.
Capt-Culver
Well-Known Member
Are the lower control arm pivot shafts greased before going back into the K member?
GearAddict
Well-Known Member
I was wondering that myself.. they don't apear to be greased and it makes no mention of greasing them in the service manual.. I would have thought they would be just based on the metal on metal wear.
Capt-Culver
Well-Known Member
I can't find it in my service manual either. However, PST sells "non-greasable" pivot shafts...which seems to indicate the originals are to be greased.
Signed,
Clueless
Signed,
Clueless
Capt-Culver
Well-Known Member
More updates:
Hope the purists will forgive me for going all black....but for simplicity sake, it was easier that way.
Strange Axle bearings for the rear.
Test fitting the tie rods. (Still waiting to get my K-member back)
Hope the purists will forgive me for going all black....but for simplicity sake, it was easier that way.
Strange Axle bearings for the rear.
Test fitting the tie rods. (Still waiting to get my K-member back)
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OhioMopar
Well-Known Member
That's what this hobby is about. Helping..
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If you decide to go with 11" drums, let me know. I have the ones off the Bee I'll never use again.
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