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1970 Dodge Charger 440 4bll carburetor questions

I'd start with plugs. Sounds like a miss.
And as F4R/T said,, I've seen broken valve springs that run like that..
 
The car is in the shop. Don't have a good close up pic with the air cleaner off.

Dodge Charger Engine.png
 
He did take off the valve covers on the drivers side and said it looks good when running. By the way, if it was a valve problem, would you still be having perfect compression?
 
Pull the air cleaner off

Bottom left on the front base , next to the mounting bolt or stud , will bee a carb number #

Give it to us

A lot of those Carter Carbs have been exchanged or replaced over the years

We need a Carb #
 
Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points and condensor if so equipped.

Those parts come before carb work. A lot of poor performance is incorrectly blamed on the carb.

 
I see an ECU

So he has a Chrysler Electronic Ignition
 
The mechanic said I had an electronic ignition and no points. Dumb question but is there still a coil and distributor cap? Not sure how the electronic ignition factors in.
 
I am all ears if any one know any good Mopar mechanics in the Raleigh, Durham, Chapel Hill area. My mechanic used to own his own shop and shared it with another elderly gentlemen who specialized in older cars. My mechanic has still be doing it for over 20 years, but he mostly works on new cars now and works for somebody else. He works on classics only in his spare time in between the new cars.
 
Take the wires off one at a time and see which one changes the popping in the exhaust. Sounds like either crossed wires or a cracked cap.
 
Backfire and rough idle does not point to a carburater to me.
It can.
I had a ThermoQuad that caught fire but it still ran. It would idle rough and hesitate on acceleration.
One half of the carb was melted and not flowing fuel. This was on a dual plane intake which meant it was starving 4 cylinders of fuel.
A quickie carb swap would answer the question as to whether it is a carburetor problem or not.
A compression test would surely highlight any internal troubles. One or more flat cam lobes also makes for a rough idle and poor acceleration as well as backfiring.
 
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I just talked with my brother who was a former Mopar guy and worked on a lot of Mopars back in the day. He echoed a lot of stuff that you guys said. Since the car was rebuilt and assuming the rebuild went well, he is thinking it is most likely the wires. He wants me to get new wires and plugs first before doing anything.

Appreciate it. All good thoughtful responses.
 
I just talked with my brother who was a former Mopar guy and worked on a lot of Mopars back in the day. He echoed a lot of stuff that you guys said. Since the car was rebuilt and assuming the rebuild went well, he is thinking it is most likely the wires. He wants me to get new wires and plugs first before doing anything.

Appreciate it. All good thoughtful responses.
Consider a new quality cap and rotor to.
 
Yes, he said that too. Thank you.

By the way, just FYI, the VIN number says that it came with a 318. And it now has a 440 so it is not the original engine. I looked up the engine block as it has a casting of Oct 1972, 440. I was told the car was rebuilit with new pistons , etc, so I don't know how many horsepower it has , how it was bored, etc.
 
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That would be a 1973 model year 440. First year with a cast crank (should have a thick damper installed). If they rebuilt the car/engine to sell, it probably has a cheap low compression kit installed. If your mechanic did a compression test, 130 would be on the low side.

BTW, if you're buying ignition parts, might as well buy another ECU. There have been quality issues with those for several years.
 
Thanks. Related to the ECU , was that original in 1970 or 1973 of the engine? And the electronic ignition vs. points. No one had said yet.
 
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This is what it looked like when the previous owner got it and before repaint. I hope to get one without the air cleaner today.

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I just went to pick up the car to fill up the gas tank with Ethanol Free Premium - Mechanic still working on it. Before the car ran pretty good, it just had a minor backfire. The Mechanic is not done with it but now the engine runs terrible - the engine shakes bad and thought I was going to stall at a red light. The Mechanic is going to install new plugs. He said he put the car settings back to where they where when he started and doesn't know why the car runs worse than when we started.

I took pictures of the engine compartment while at the gas station.

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Dodge Charger - Carb 2.jpg


Dodge Charger - Carb 1 .jpg
 
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