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1970 Plymouth Sport Satellite from Junk to......

My car never budged when I removed my roof skin. My car was on jackstands at the time. The subframe is pretty good support. See how the new skin lays on the frame.
 
While waiting for some supplies I continue on the rear quarter panel. Inner structure fab.

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I have only have hand tools. No bead roller or brake. Doing it all by hand. This is the inner structure that I will butt weld and hope all lines up well.

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Decided to go to for an overlap weld here. I did chamfer to 45°. The beads needed to be deeper but it was the best I could do with the method I used. Need a bead roller to make them perfect. But they are functional adding rigidity to the panel.
These are the initial tack welds....
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Inner structure of the quarter panel is welded in. I skimmed the panel with fiberglass duraglas to ensure a leak proof seal. Since this sits between the outer body and inside it will never be seen once welded up to the outer body patch seen below.

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and yes I welded it all up I just showed the initial tack welds.
 
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This Sherman panel is requiring much more fitment work than it should and what they charge for this piece. I could have saved $130 and did it myself for all the hassle.

Working on ideas on the for the marker light which Sherman didn’t put in the panel. Just another detail that has to be contended with here.

I am planing on a butt weld using a technique that overlays the new panel then tack it in. Then use a grinder with a thin cut-off at a 45° and cut out and weld up as I go. The panel falls into place with minimal gap in a controlled manor.

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Get some more advise to your #1 task. I have in the past used the 3M panel bond to bond a roof skin to the roof cross members. I was told that wasn't the correct product to use at these locations. 3M makes several types of flexible foam products that are designed for roof braces.
After I bonded the roof to the cross members in the direct sun light it would cause a ghosting effect and the roof would look wavy.
A little more prep work like:
1. Removing the primer where the 3M panel adhesive will bond the skin to the crossmembers.
2. Punch holes in the periphery of the skin and remove some of the paint near each weld point.
3. Make some MIG welding ground strap openings in the paint on the skin.
4. Finish passenger sail panel and deck areas.
5. Test fit skin and window.

What else am I missing hum......?

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Get some more advise to your #1 task. I have in the past used the 3M panel bond to bond a roof skin to the roof cross members. I was told that wasn't the correct product to use at these locations. 3M makes several types of flexible foam products that are designed for roof braces.
After I bonded the roof to the cross members in the direct sun light it would cause a ghosting effect and the roof would look wavy.
Thanks man I will look into this. When I scraped off the old adhesive it was like a rock. Sounds like I might need something more flexible.....
 
Youare making progress!! Yes I agree Sherman panels are pretty much JUNK!! I can be a total f*****p but I make better panels by hand than they do. I guess they make theirs by hand also!!!! Make a 7 yr old hands!!
 
This Sherman panel is requiring much more fitment work than it should and what they charge for this piece. I could have saved $130 and did it myself for all the hassle.

Working on ideas on the for the marker light which Sherman didn’t put in the panel. Just another detail that has to be contended with here.

I am planing on a butt weld using a technique that overlays the new panel then tack it in. Then use a grinder with a thin cut-off at a 45° and cut out and weld up as I go. The panel falls into place with minimal gap in a controlled manor.

View attachment 945181
Lookin' good Ron! Pain in the *** now, but you will be very happy later!!!
 
Rear driver quarter panel patch fitment preparation took more time than I thought it would but I wanted to make sure it was right before the final cut in and weld.

The cut in and weld went really well. I used the technique of using the new panel as my stencil for cutting and cut at that seam at 45° to have the panel lay in with minimal gap. Worked like a charm! Its also perfectly flush.

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Rear driver quarter panel patch fitment preparation took more time than I thought it would but I wanted to make sure it was right before the final cut in and weld.

The cut in and weld went really well. I used the technique of using the panel as my stencil for cutting and cut at a 45° to have the panel lay in with minimal gap. Worked like a charm!

View attachment 946078 View attachment 946079
Nice.
 
Rear driver quarter panel patch fitment preparation took more time than I thought it would but I wanted to make sure it was right before the final cut in and weld.

The cut in and weld went really well. I used the technique of using the panel as my stencil for cutting and cut at a 45° to have the panel lay in with minimal gap. Worked like a charm!

View attachment 946078 View attachment 946079
Nice work Ron!!!
 
Sometimes you have to improvise. I find that I am blowing through the body metal when patching. It might not be 18ga (like my new panels) or it just might be less heat tolerant after 50 years or something else I don’t know. Maybe some one here can explain this and if this is common. Anyway some copper backing will help me weld the seam up here....

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Really becoming attached to these.....

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Woot Woot!!! Ron finally got the trunk pan from me! It was a pleasure to meet Ron and his lovely wife Maria! Good luck on the project Ron, I will be following this thread!!!

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Thanks Bart for than pan! Never new how much sheet metal can make a guys week! It was a pleasure meeting you and seeing your great looking car and house!
More to follow!!
 
Ron, I'm having the same issue on my floor pan ... keep blowing through the new pan cuz it's so thin. I turned my heat and speed way down and it seemed to help. Using a piece of copper is a good idea. PS ,,, I am jealous of your progress ... keep up the good work.
 
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