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383 build

KB hyper flat-tops (to get valve reliefs, watch the TOP RING GAP) with close to zero deck clearance and the closed chamber Eddy heads would be a nice pairing, and the XE275HL Comp hydraulic cam is hard to beat with the short-stroke engine on the street.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Good cam! Use with 3.55’s to 3.91’s in the street. Use the an excellent high flowing valve job. Bigger valves an excellent plus.
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How many 383's have been ruined by a 242/246 "gnarly" cam? Keep the duration reasonable and let the engine scream instead of drown. People forget its only 23 cubes bigger than the 360.
 
Bighead440 said:
KB hyper flat-tops (to get valve reliefs, watch the TOP RING GAP) with close to zero deck clearance and the closed chamber Eddy heads would be a nice pairing, and the XE275HL Comp hydraulic cam is hard to beat with the short-stroke engine on the street.
Click to expand...



Hmmmmmmm. KB 162?. It'll need about a 0.025" cut on the block to get to zero deck. Certainly doable and the CR ends up down around 9.5:1. If you need the P to V clearance fine, but I would rather have a nice flat top with a bit more CR and without those huge 8 cc valve pockets. Flip side is the KB is 50 grams lighter and you might want the lower CR depending on cam/gas and elevation. Not sure why KB would design a relatively new piston that does not zero deck easily, and has the 5/64 ring pack. Seems like a missed opportunity to do something better. Certainly both the 2315 or the 162 pistons leave a little something to be desired

Personally, I would not use a fast rate hydraulic cam on a 383, especially a HL cam.
 
Ok, LOL. What aftermarket cam is like the cam in a 383 found in a RR? What aftermarket manifold and carb would be the best bet? Im using HP exhaust manifolds.
 
BSB67 said:
Nice.

The 2315 piston will be between 0.015" to 0.020" in the hole in an uncut block. So it sounds like that is what you might have.

You can then either cut to zero deck and use a 0.040 gasket, or cut to 0.010 in the hole and go with a 0.030 MSL gasket. With the 75 cc eddy head it puts you right on 10:1 CR. You really cannot do any better for a street car. No valve reliefs in the piston is why you need to keep an eye on the exhaust valve.

I think KB has a piston that can get to to 10:1 as well, but it has a dome to make up for the valve reliefs, and will not give you quench. Kinda dumb.
Click to expand...
This is dead nuts on

Anyways

Ran those pistons in my rebuilt numbers matching 383 Magnum .030 over for 20 years - Uncut face block , Pistons .015" in the hole like mentioned

Didn’t even know what I had in there until I pulled the heads - Was a youngster out of high school when I had the motor rebuilt with one of those kits from PAW from what I remember (Huge thick book back in the day) and didn’t write anything down other then a receipt I had from the machine shop

Ran the Mopar 284/484 camshaft and lifters straight up

So fast forward until a few years ago , Bought the Eddy E Street heads 75cc expecting slugs in the hole , was a pleasant surprise when I pulled the 906 heads and found those marked 2315 pistons in there so I know I was running something respectable anyways

Man everything still looked awesome internal

Installed the E Street Heads , Fel Pro .039" blue head gaskets , and away I went with no other changes



Lasted all of a week LOL

Got happy with the RPM’s , man it pulled with those 3:91 Gears , right up until I noticed a lifter clacking at the gas station

Had no idea until a pushrod dropped out nursing it home for five miles - Man I got lucky really lucky

Pulled the new eddy heads and saw the eyebrows , two intake valves kissed the pistons , took out the camshaft lobes and misery set in

No Super Bee for a year - I figured hell , it’s been twenty years since the last rebuild - Machine shop had the block alone all spring and summer last year - Man that sucked - Line Bored for 440 Source Billet Steel Main Caps - Cleaned up the holes and just cleaned up the decks as I know with those heads I would Bee close to 10.5-1 Compression with the new kit

Built the motor myself last winter - 383 Magnum/432 Stroker (440 Source Kit) Those same Eddy E Street 75cc heads - Comp Cams XE 275HL Ran it hard this summer - Man it spins up fast , really fast , and serious torque for a little 432 Stroker

Very very happy

 
wyrmrider said:
Good catch and
Good question
will stock HP exhaust manifolds work with the slant plug heads?
something to get in writing
Too bad KB does not make my quench dome with a dish piston for the 383
I can post a pic of one for a 3 3/4 stroke on a RB LY rod for the open chamber 906 head- a stealth motor we did mock up (if I can figure out how to post pics)
I just will not build a non quench MOPAR (with the ridiculous plug location)
if you do do it cut the compression a half point and - well you need to sneak up with the timing in any case
too bad - good chamber and you need less than 30 degrees
Click to expand...
Yes

Zero issues with the HP exhaust manifolds and Eddy E Street 75cc angle plug heads - Even running reproduction factory date coded plug wires and NGK plugs - Honestly nothing is touching or even really that close - Factory plug boots look perfect after all summer
 
fratzog lover said:
How many 383's have been ruined by a 242/246 "gnarly" cam? Keep the duration reasonable and let the engine scream instead of drown. People forget its only 23 cubes bigger than the 360.
Click to expand...
Small block guys get the B engine better sometimes I think. The smaller small blocks have a 3.31 stroke while the B has a 3.38. The 360 a 3.58.

If you have built a 318 or 340 and you did well with it, then a B engine will or should be a snap.
Draw back? Weight.
Benefit? Everything else.

Too big of a cam in any short stroke engine kills the low end torque. Numerical low gears, wrong stall and heavy car weight will ruin a otherwise good engine.
 
I have two 383's.
My charger runs the Mopar .455 cam, KB hypereutectic pistons, milled 906 heads to get 9.4:1 CR, weiand intake and HP manifolds.
The cam was used from my brother (probably only 5,000 miles). I've run it for 20+ years and about 33,000 miles and it is fabulous.
It idles pretty well, has terrific torque and makes power to somewhere in the 5,000 rpm range.
My Satellite has the .484 cam with closed port heads with headers and 3" flowmasters. It runs nice but admittedly I have not spent much time tuning and tweaking. I have not really wound that one out either this is the first summer with that one and it splits time with the Charger.
Between the two I would recommend the .455 cam. P4286677AE.
 
comments on pg 1 I've been away will tackle page 2 later
Felpro gasket and 15-20 down does not work- see BSB67
I do not think those pistons have valve reliefs- check valve clearance before and after TDC
I see the [email protected] HL comp cam and intake change dropped torque 30 foot pounds at around 3000 rpm
you can feel 30 foot pounds so either have a higher stall converter with that cam or drop down to the 275 and use higher ratio rockers if you want similar top end
(what would the torque drop be at 2000 and 2500 rpm?)
DP and the shorter cam for a street build
 
I'd suggest the Stealth heads, and have them checked and corrected by a good shop. I like the KB hyper pistons for a street-type build - as was said - make sure your builder respects the top ring gap recommendations from KB, and measures the deck height in order to set the static compression around 10:1. As for a cam - 1st choice is the Comp XE268 is a really nice street grind, doesn't get really exotic, used probably 6-7 of them very successfully, and makes great power in a 383 with decent as-cast heads. 2nd choice would be the Summit brand "small" cam. That's what I'd recommend.
 
Don Frelier said:
I have two 383's.
My charger runs the Mopar .455 cam, KB hypereutectic pistons, milled 906 heads to get 9.4:1 CR, weiand intake and HP manifolds.
The cam was used from my brother (probably only 5,000 miles). I've run it for 20+ years and about 33,000 miles and it is fabulous.
It idles pretty well, has terrific torque and makes power to somewhere in the 5,000 rpm range.
My Satellite has the .484 cam with closed port heads with headers and 3" flowmasters. It runs nice but admittedly I have not spent much time tuning and tweaking. I have not really wound that one out either this is the first summer with that one and it splits time with the Charger.
Between the two I would recommend the .455 cam. P4286677AE.
Click to expand...
Anyone I have talked to who has used that cam loves it. It also does well with MPG's. It is the Captain America of 383 street cams. Has great vacuum numbers, cruises to the shore well with 3.23's, idles smooth etc. If you don't need a hot cam for your 383 B body, you could do a lot worse.
 
agree the MP cam is excellent
If you have a low compression motor or a really high compression motor then there are other requirements
there are also more modern cams but if you have that one use it
if you have modern al heads, headers/ no headers all make a differnece
is that the single pattern or dual pattern (longer exhaust) version- sorry do not have time to look up the PN till tonight
cheers
 
wyrmrider said:
agree the MP cam is excellent
If you have a low compression motor or a really high compression motor then there are other requirements
there are also more modern cams but if you have that one use it
if you have modern al heads, headers/ no headers all make a differnece
is that the single pattern or dual pattern (longer exhaust) version- sorry do not have time to look up the PN till tonight
cheers
Click to expand...
The MP cam? Single pattern 272/272 (@.050 - 231/231) IMO, a really excellent street grind with a good valve job.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4286677/overview/make/dodge
 
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Last edited:
Right
The single pattern cam is for headers and better with a modern aluminum or ported iron head
But pricey
there are better choices $ for dollar
remember a 272 Mopar is like a 280 class cam for everyone else and more than that for Crane/ Summit/ Elgin etc
 
The comp XEnnnHL mopar cam is not near as radical as the Summits or the Comp 268 chevy grinds which do not utilize the mechanical advantage of the larger Mopar lifter.
You want something a little less intense look at Voodoo or Engle or Mopar Performance or Crane .904 series
you want about the same as the hard working chevy profiles look at Howard-
you get more area under the curve with any of the non chevy cams-or you can go a size shorter and be about the same- With MOPAR you have a choice
 
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