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408 stroker cooling issues

71GTX440

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Fort Knox, KY
I have a blueprint 408 stroker (495hp), TF727 trans, champion 3 row, 26" radiator.
Currently have a single 3100cfm thermostatic fan that turns on at 180 and off at 165 degrees.
Everything has been running great the last few weeks as I am still under the 500 mile breaking on the engine.
I have been averaging 190-200 degrees with zero issues.
As of yesterday, it was 98 degrees with 102 heat index. Had a local car show I went to, car got up to 220 degrees and was slowly climbing. Pulled into a friend's house, shut down, popped hood and put an extra external fan on the radiator and engine to cool it down. Drove to the car show and still heated up to 210 before pulling in and shutting down. Sat there for 6 hours and drove home. Temp once again got up to 220 degrees. Temp outside was 92degrees at 8pm.

Am I overreacting on this or do I need to start looking for a dual fan setup to pull more cfm's across radiatior?
If so, any recommendations? I have about 4.25 inches between my radiation and my main pulls as I installed a serpentine system.
 
Puller or pusher? Post pics of your set up.
 
I feel that you can not beat the factory setup. I have seen to many people having problems with electric fan setups. @!biomedtechguy
 
If you have no space then you should consider a dual fan setup, make sure you are running a shroud, only way to pull the heat out of ALL of the rad when in line at a car show.
 
If you have no space then you should consider a dual fan setup, make sure you are running a shroud, only way to pull the heat out of ALL of the rad when in line at a car show.
I currently have an aluminum shroud that fits the radiator and has a large hole in the middle foe the single fan to pull air through. Thinking of a dual, 12" fan that comes on at different Temps so it lessens the amp draw through relays. Total CFM when both on would be 4300 CFM
 
With a 50/50 mix of glycol and a 16 lb cap, that's not that hot. I've mentioned the virtues of a thermostat with a larger opening, like the EMP/Stewart from Summit. Flow through an 1 7/16" opening is tremeandously better that the 1 1/8" opening on a Stant.
 
:xscuseless:

....also try Water Wetter.


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A new engine will always run hotter than one that is 'run in'.
 
Make sure you have the timing and fuel mixtures on point.
I don't have a part suggestion but being a performance engine I would go for as much fan/cfm as I could fit in there and remember to upgrade the electrical system accordingly.
 
Can run factory, no space

How could there be no space with a B-body and a small block?

Is the serpentine system taking space? Is the Champion radiator pushed back more than stock?

What's the crank to water pump pulley ratio on that serpentine system? Some system are under driven which hurt cooling.

Also, with a new motor sometime RTV can come loose from assembly or just other stuff. Good idea to flush/drain radiator with first oil change.
 
How could there be no space with a B-body and a small block?

Is the serpentine system taking space? Is the Champion radiator pushed back more than stock?

What's the crank to water pump pulley ratio on that serpentine system? Some system are under driven which hurt cooling.

Also, with a new motor sometime RTV can come loose from assembly or just other stuff. Good idea to flush/drain radiator with first oil change.

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Make sure you have the timing and fuel mixtures on point.
I don't have a part suggestion but being a performance engine I would go for as much fan/cfm as I could fit in there and remember to upgrade the electrical system accordingly.
Fan is on a relay, draws 12a on startup, alternator can easily handle it. Already have a 4g wire from + alternator post to + battery post. Alleviates strain on dash wiring
 
You thinking there isn't a real issue? I have heard from others there engines ran "hot" for the first 1k+miles
I actually own a BluePrint 408 stroker engine, so I can speak from experience.....unlike others who are discussing builds by others.
 
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