kjalltrac
Well-Known Member
That's very impressiveHave you broke one? We run a stock cast crank to 850hp (9.55@142/3775lbs). Year 6, still going.
Doug
That's very impressiveHave you broke one? We run a stock cast crank to 850hp (9.55@142/3775lbs). Year 6, still going.
Doug
Do a interweb search on budget 440 builds. I know Hot Rod / Car Craft / Popular Hot Rodding have articles out there on these type of builds. You can get 500 hp easy without breaking the bank. My advice (only because it's what I'm doing now with my car), decide what you WANT; develop the COST SHEET to achieve the WANT. If the $$$ are more than you have NOW; then either ADJUST the WANT or SAVE for the WANT. Whatever you do, make sure you'll be happy with what you end up with.That's the thing, of course I can do it "right" the first time, but I don't have the bills to buy a 572 Hemi or bore, balance and purchase a stroker kit for this block.
So I figure, do the best with what you have. And a smogger 440 is not so fun.
IQ52=> I think you made some impressive numbers on your smogger dyno session.
I can probably get close to 400-450 hp with this combo.
I´m just not sure on the converter and rear end gear ratio.
The real down side is the potential damage to expensive parts if it blows up. Damage to rods, crank, or block and the replacement just got expensive. Going cheap upfront usually results in overall more money at the end.This is my take. If it's really low budget and you blow it up, so what. Very little investment. New cheap pistons, rings, bearings , machine work, labor will far exceed the cost of 2 used short blocks. Now if you have the knowledge and told to ball hone and throw bearings and a timing chain in it the additional investment is still small. On the other side of the coin . Perfectly good running race motor. I bought new rods and am having the crank magged cause I can't afford to blow it up, too much dollars in mega block.
Doug.
.The real down side is the potential damage to expensive parts if it blows up. Damage to rods, crank, or block and the replacement just got expensive. Going cheap upfront usually results in overall more money at the end.
Edelbrock E-Street heads, correct?Have cleaned up the ports a little and done a valve back cut and laped them.
Not a single valve where sealing properly ootb.
View attachment 592969
Thanks,Open headers would help that thing go over 5000rpm, pick up some power, and lose some weight.
Yes, thats with mufflers (the mufflers are 2 chamber design that necks down to 2 1/4" inside) and fully exhaust.usual things work on timing curve
6 cyl torsion bars- give em a try
is that through the mufflers? if so not bad
check the backpressure on the mufflers and vacuum at High rpm and report
is that compression real with the heads cc'd and what's the deck clearance
10:1 is not much for that cam and not much for AL heads with that cam
would a 274 HL or 285 HL be better-too early to tell
maybe time to go solid where do you need more power- back off the cam advance 4 degrees and see if the over 5 k improves- after making sure the tune is perfect as can be
what's your rpm after the shifts
what's your cranking compression?
borrow some 1.6 rockers for a test but problem is pushrods may hit so maybe clearance next time it's apart
lifters pumping up?
As usual, I’m late to the parade. Gotta disagree on the headers, 1-7/8” at minimum. Get the exhaust out of there easier.backpressure is the most obvious thing for falling on its face at higher rpm- when the backpressue goes up
just pull the mufflers off and try it
I use 3" in 3" out Turbo mufflers 3" inside
don't get talked into larger headers
I have good reason to believe that my purple stripe cam is the 292°/.509"The engine feels slow after 5000rpm?