440 Lifter noise ??

[Dennis H]

I have a 70 RR 440+6. My engine seems to have developed a valve train noise. I just changed the oil to a heavier classic car oil with zinc in it. The pressure is always good (60 psi). Prior to the oil change no noticible noise. It sounds like a ticking lifter on the driver side frt. Can the oil change have caused this? I definitely don't run the car hard. So it shouldn't be from any abuse. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Chuck

From what weight to what weight? I will never believe that a change in viscosity caused this. I run high zinc 10-40 Amsoil Signature in the 440 per the builder after break in with conventional. Go flog it, see of that helps. It got rid of my hemi-tic in the 5.7.

 

[clazar]

I went from 5w 30 mobil 1 to an oil made for older cars with zinc in it 15w 40.

Chuck

 

[clazar]

I'm still trying to find out which way the rocker arm dimples (pushrod indent ) is oriented. Are the left dimple & right dimple opposite of each other or are they to the near side of each other ?????


Chuck

 

[coloradodave]

EDITED: The pushrod cups (dimples) are facing each other, as the picture below shows. So the first rocker (exhaust) on cylinder #1 should have the dimple (pushrod cup) toward the firewall and the second rocker (intake) dimple should be closer to the front bumper. Had a brain-fart...

 

[b_body_hopeful]

Hope this picture helps.....

 

[super-bee_ski]

Chuck...sorry, never heard of 'classic car oil'. Lol, but I've been out of touch for years.
To me, classic car oil = Valvoline oil.

Just a heads up on the tappet bit, soaking them in oil is not good enough. All a tappet is, is a midget oil pump, of sorts.
New, used, or abused. I set mine one at a time in a container of 30w oil. Using a wooden dowl rod, I work the piston to allow the tappet to draw oil into itself (pump it up). Simply fills the tappet cavity with oil. Sure, some will leak out, but it's primed before it goes in the motor.

miller:
Some "Oils" marketed today for "our cars" and Haggerty Insurance Company researched and approved:
1. Brad Penn Oils
2.Competition Cams 15W50 Muscle Car and Street Rod Engine Oil.
3. Valvoline; Valvoline's response about the quanityof zinc in their oils:
"The amount of Zinc in the #VV851 Not Street Legal oil is .13% or 1300 ppm.
4. Castrol :
Castrol GTX 20W-50 (SL,SM)
* Castrol GTX Diesel 15W-40 (CI4,CH4,CG4,CF4,CF,SL)
* Castrol GTX High Mileage 20W-50 (SL,SM)
* Castrol HD 30 (SL,SM)
* Castrol HD 40 (SL,SM)
* Castrol Syntec Blend Truck 15W-40 (CI4,CH4,CG4,CF4,CF,SL)(Semi-
synthetic)
* Castrol Tection Extra 15W-40 (CI4Plus, CI4,CH4,CG4,CF4,SL)
* Castrol Hypuron S 15W-40 (CI4Plus,CH4,CG4,SL)(Semi-synthetic)
5. Shell assured us that CJ-4-spec commercial grade oil is the best it's ever been, and that is was designed with flat-tappet camshaft engines in mind. Though its zinc content was lowered, it still contains sufficient levels of ZDDP (1200 ppm).
6. Mobil 1 :Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50 is the best overall choice, and I've been using it in my 3.2 for the last 8k miles with good results. It has some of the highest levels of Z & P of all the oils tested...


Classic Car Motor Oil Company
http://www.classiccarmotoroil.com

Driven Racing Oil
http://www.drivenracingoil.com/

Brad Penn Oil
http://www.penngrade1.com

 

[miller]

Completely respect anyone's choice on what motor oil they decide to use. Appreciate all the research!

Not sorry for being a hard-headed (there...I said it) old guy. I've used what I use most of my driving life. It's never let me down. Never had any oil problems, until I put a piston out the side of my block. Lol. That another story we won't go in to.

I'm also one of those mis-guided souls who don't like that green crap.