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440 Shakes too Much

Mine is just a stock 440, but we all know the mounts don't get along with the torque.
This is what I did, strap attached to inside of the mount plate on the top boss, then down to a pre existing hole in the K frame (I did enlarge hole to accept 5/16 bolt with a nylok nut) thru bolted with homemade rubber bushing top and bottom. Works like a champ, out of the way and no vibration
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I don't think your going to be happy with the solid mount..
I have polyurethane mounts in both the 63 and 65 cars.Both were non driving projects so I had no comparison. Both vibrates like a paint shaker.
I changed from rubber to poly in my 64 and really noticed the difference.Hated it.My 2 cents.Oh yeah, I put in poly trans mounts too. I have been told to swap the tranny mount back to rubber and the vibrations will be less.
 
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This is from 440 source. It stinks when they break the lug...but we haven't broke one with the solid mount(not yet)and we are running the less strong block w moroso mount....but yet I have seen several older block break the ear with rubber mounts.. I'd be curious to know if anyone broke the lug w the solid mount or if the give in the rubber somehow breaks the ear??? Of course power level changes the outcome.
Thoughts???
 
I'll ask the silly question here:
Does the engine run as smoothly as it can, given the build? Is there any reason it doesn't?
Is this an idle smoothness thing or are we talking all the way up the RPM's?
 
I have had it happen twice. Both times the accelerator pedal went to the floor and the shifter was jammed in low. It kinked the headers when the engine hit the fenderwell. As the engine approached 7k it stopped pulling enough to leverage the shifter into 2nd and the gas pedal came back.

At 7K on a run away horse, you said let's see what 2nd gear does?
Tip of the hat. You must wear an extra large jock strap
 
Had a '64 Olds (w/V6, no less) that broke the drivers' motor mount out of habit.
Would pin the throttle to the floor and bind that mechanical linkage up every time.
My first car in high school, cost $95. :)
 
I have had it happen twice. Both times the accelerator pedal went to the floor and the shifter was jammed in low. It kinked the headers when the engine hit the fenderwell. As the engine approached 7k it stopped pulling enough to leverage the shifter into 2nd and the gas pedal came back.

The only purpose of the torque strap with solid mounts is to give it extra support so you don't break the ear of the bottom of the mount on the driver side. If you are running a later 440...(not sure when they beefed it up)..Solids alone should be fine.
I had that happen in a 1969 Torino. It was easily brought under control by turning off the key.
 
Tinker67, that looks like a good idea! It's simple and out of the way. I'd have to find a way to make the strap, but should be simple install. Probably start with drivers side solid, since I ordered them today. Thanks for all the tips! I'll update this after we get it in
 
At 7K on a run away horse, you said let's see what 2nd gear does?
Tip of the hat. You must wear an extra large jock strap
Key was next
.Lol...I was the passenger...brother was driving and both of us 18 years young. Didn't know what was wrong but heard a thunk and the hood popped up a bit and the shifter jerked, but was already in low and the gas pedal matted...it happened at 6...7 came pretty quick.

The other time just turned off the key.:rolleyes:
First one is better story:rofl:
Car still has the hood dent..character I guess
 
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Never a car, but I did have a 1971 CZ380 go WOT in first gear on gravel. All my beer buddies stood with their mouths open. I got it going in a circle and went round and round slowly choking down the rpm's til I choked it out completely. No one was more amazed, or relieved, than I.
I bought that low hour bike for $30. The owner said it is possessed and he was glad to see it go. It is fast. 43 HP @ 235 pounds. It has thrown everyone who has ridden it.
 
I run 2 solid Moroso mounts on my Charger

10.7:1 compression, Eddy heads, .509 purple shaft cam, 3.91 Gear, Auto with rubber mount

I do not find the vibrations to be a problem
are there a few more vibrations? yes but I don't think its annoying

I have had a MM break on me and it tore the accelerator cable to the point it stuck the engine wide open
Very Scary

I would not to go back to rubber again
 
It’s a weird feeling at the line when you load the converter and feel the tranny trying to join you in the passenger cabin.

The other solutions are long run better but you can bolt a chain from the block to the cross member or airplane wire. I’ve used a chain for years. Quick, cheap and easy. Now if only everything were that way…
 
Okay. Replaced the driver’s side with Moroso solid. Started it up and now thaw fan hits the shroud. I think the new solid is about a 1/4 in taller than the one that came out. Fixed the take off in first, but now may have bother issues! I can look at the motor from the front and see it’s off just a bit. Higher on the driver’s side. I also have a TKO 600 in this car, that was already a tight fit. Is that going to be an issue too?
So now what? Put a solid on the other side? Put the old one back in and add some sort of strap?
Starting down the rabbit hole!!!
 
I am not sure they had column key switches in 68,(maybe they did), but at least the steering would jam due to the engine lodged against it. I understand that it affected more than one model GM car. Of course I could be suffering early onset senility, lol! :rolleyes:
Never had it effect the steering, but until the did away with mechanical linkage and went to cable, this was a Big Problem
 
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