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440 Source Stroker Kit for my 383..thoughts??

PT64POLARA

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So my original 383 in my 64 Polara is getting a little tired. This is my only car, so I want to do the motor the right way the first time. I would like the motor to produce around 500 horse. I may be running the car in FAST racing class, so I want everything to appear stock. I have been researching the 440 source stroker kits and they seem to be a great package for the money. I can either go with the 438 kit, which stuffs a 440 crank in my 383, or go all the way with the 496 kit. I want it to be as reliable as possible. The car is also a factory AC car, which I will be keeping on the new motor. Like I said, I am keeping this car forever, so I don't really have a limit on the budget. I want to best overall package that car get me to the track with the AC on, run her, and get home reliably. Thanks in advance for your responses.
 
Hi PT64, i know of two guys using 440 source kits on 440's with great results but no one I know has done a 383. If your thinking about F.A.S.T. racing you are going to want a lot more than 500 hp, but still look stock. The attached article is a mild 383 stroker build up using 440 source stuff with a stock 440 crank. The mill made good power for small C.i.d and a mild non-roller cam. If it was me i would use as much C.I.D. as you can make and a stout solid roller. Wish i could help more, Good Luck.
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...mance_383_stroker_engine/edelbrock_heads.html
 
in a 383 i wouldnt go opver 4.15 stroke as the compression heighth is short with a 4.25 stroke and the piston dwells at the top too long for the street
 
in a 383 i wouldnt go opver 4.15 stroke as the compression heighth is short with a 4.25 stroke and the piston dwells at the top too long for the street

It's always been my understanding that in keeping the rod length the same and increasing the stroke the piston dwells less at TDC. Rod length divided by the stroke is rod to stroke ratio. Somehow it was found ideal that MoPars have the best rod to stroke ratio for drag racing (1.80 - 1.85). Typical GM engines have a short rod for the stroke and that combo is said to make the piston accelerate faster from TDC to help with moving air, but probably more to do with compactness of the engine package since a shorter deck block can be used. High ratio engines such as the 383 are good for high RPM because the piston dwells higher at TDC and has less side loading. I'd run the longest rod you can get away with in a stroker engine that will get you close to the 1.7 to 1.8 ratio.

I like the idea of making a low block 426 and using the 440 rod, but agree with trying to get the most displacement possible for your goal. While it will be impossible to go to 1.8 ratio with a long stroke it's not advisable to go too low. Since there have been plenty of successful engines with a R/S ratio between 1.58 and 1.88 I'd say pick a combo between those numbers and choose a cam that works best with the ratio. Also, the acceleration rate of the piston away from TDC has influence in cam design.
 
It more or less boils down to longer rod (more piston dwell time)= more complete combustion at higher RPMs or more top end HP. On the flip side, a taller piston (more compression hieght) = less piston rock and more low end torque. These trade off mostly come into play in max effort motors because if your building a street motor you use what's most available or popular.

Daredevil had it right about the compression hieght with that long of a stroke. A standard deck hieght small block can use a 4" stroke and stock length rods and still have ample room between the piston pin and the oil ring. You should check out "How to Build Big Inch Small Block Mopars" Its a great book with TONS of info.

EDIT:
I'm a big ole dummy and forgot we were talking about big blocks... please forgive the last paragraph.
 
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The source stuff seems to be betting better,,,,,,,,,,,but,you need a really good engine builder to carefully check every componant for square & true.I have heard stories of cranks needing alot of attention before it could be used,rod having to be reconned even though they are new.Overall their kits seem to have many happy customers.As far as your build,without having budget constraints I would consider a good 440 block as a better foundation for an easy 500 cubes.There are NO LIMITS to internal mods,so it is easy to get carried away.I will also say that I have played with the SUPERCAR guys and they are a GREAT bunch of guys.I end up in the AFX class.You don't have to have the fastest car there to have a blast.Do you have an engine builder??

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When I die, I hope heaven looks like that and they are all mine. Of course I could draw the short straw and hell would be imports, ford escorts, and an occasional Pacer.
 
in a 383 i wouldnt go opver 4.15 stroke as the compression heighth is short with a 4.25 stroke and the piston dwells at the top too long for the street
Cant remember why i was told too much dwell at the top was bad. maybe i misunderstood.
 
Any difference between 440 source and the offerings from Muscle Motors? As far as stroker kits?
 
Cant remember why i was told too much dwell at the top was bad. maybe i misunderstood.

Increased dwell really can't be taken advantage of until high RPM's. However, when you start adding boost increased dwell hurts you. That's why a lot of blower motors are built with shorter rods and more Comp Height. It boils down to cylinder pressure vs piston rock. Something like that anyway.
 
Hemi Itis. I think we met at Mopars at E Town. I was the young guy with the White 64 Polara 500 with the red interior. I was speaking with you about transmission. I have been meaning to get in contact with you about my tranny and engine rebuilds.
 
Hemi Itis. I think we met at Mopars at E Town. I was the young guy with the White 64 Polara 500 with the red interior. I was speaking with you about transmission. I have been meaning to get in contact with you about my tranny and engine rebuilds.

Yup,I remember you and your dad:yes:pm me if you need my number again,,,,,,,,AL:HappyNewYear:

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