Update. Since my last post I’ve:the jegs should work fine that impeller is better than fins
get high flow stat
The 195 isn’t the problem. It’s the 210 on the hwy that causes pinging and low oil pressure (under 7psi at idle). I live in Florida so if it’s 210 at 83 degrees what will it be at 95?core support completely sealed
spoiler or valance under the core support
oil cooler
larger ps cooler
trans cooler in radiator?
get it out and use Borg Warner Canada 100 plate cooler NOT TUBE AND FIN
1/2 inch in and out and use half inch oil proof hose to and from the trans throw a filter (transdapt adapter and full size filter) on the converter to cooler line
what' wrong with 195?
anyone like header wrap?
cold air to the carb
So tell me how this one is better than the Milodon hi flow 180 and the EMP Stewart High Performance Thermostat 180?180 Stant Super Stat. Standard.
An old hotrodder from back in the day told me to drill a couple of small holes along the outside of the thermostat to add to the cooling flow. He said even if the thermostat fails I would still get some flow to prevent major overheating. I've done it in the past. Just my 2 cents.
This is the water pump I have from Jegs. Wondering if I should upgrade to a Flowkooler brand with fins?
View attachment 966298
It’s from 440 source but the site listed these as new and retooled since previous housings had a smaller intake orifice.Mainly drilling a couple of small holes in the T-stats flange helps with any air lock in the system.
@Sonny what water pump housing do you have? Some of the early aluminium aftermarket housings had a flow problem. I'd have to research this again to refresh my memory.
Nice looking 8 blade pump. Where did you find that one?
How much initial timing?The 512 inch big block in my car stays in the 180 to 190 range with a premium Stant 180 thermostat. I do have a Stewart sitting on the shelf if I need it but so far I've never needed it. I have a stock Cordoba radiator in my Duster with a factory shroud and the big 7 blade fan with the clutch so that probably helps. I also run a lot of timing advance at idle and cruise which helps keep the engine temps down.
FlowKooler sells Robert Shaw T stats for less. 370-160 here $24.99 just installed with Flowkooler high flow water pump. Waiting o temps to rise to test it out.
https://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/collections/thermostats?_=pf&pf_t_make=make:dodge
I did not go back and read the entire post or search but have you tried the internal spring in the lower radiator hose?View attachment 972956 View attachment 972957
Update. Since my last post I’ve:
Added overflow tank.
Added EMP thermostat.
Added flowkooler pump.
Added lower Radiator hose internal spring.
Added 14 1” holes with flappers to shroud.
Tried water wetter with distilled water.
Used foam to seal radiator to rad support.
And nothing. Maybe 2 degree drop on highway. Idle to 25 mph- 195 degrees
Over that on hwy at 70mph- 208. Only 84 degrees outside.
Possible causes?:
-My (2) 1320 cfm fans too small (12” pullers with 95amp alternator). Temp does come down from 210 to 195 but only when at idle so the fans are working better than high speed air flow.
- my 727 trans has a 2000 stall converter with 3:55 gears. Engine rpm is 3200 at 70 mph. Should I have a trans cooler?
-air fuel ratio is 13 at cruise so not lean.
-timing is 18-34 so not too advanced.
-using ported vacuum advance. Timing is 44 degrees in park at 3000 rpm when hooked up.
Any suggestions???