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$500- 68 charger

Finished welding the house patch on. It came out so good I may change my mind about the de-humping.
 

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Looking good Daytona! It's up to you but if you imagine you'd ever want any more room in the wheelwell now would be the time to dehump it. It'd be a treat to try and do later with the quarters on and the car put back together.

But for what it's worth my 18x9.5's fit in the stock wheelwell no problem, and looking at the room left over I could probably go 11"+ without any issues like 747 mentioned earlier
 
Looking good Daytona! It's up to you but if you imagine you'd ever want any more room in the wheelwell now would be the time to dehump it. It'd be a treat to try and do later with the quarters on and the car put back together.

But for what it's worth my 18x9.5's fit in the stock wheelwell no problem, and looking at the room left over I could probably go 11"+ without any issues like 747 mentioned earlier

This is another tough decision for me to make but now is the time I have to decide to de-hump or not. I finished out that house like I would to keep it stock, but I knew it was unnecessary if I de-humped it. I guess it was good practice for the 1/4 skin.
 
Finally getting a start on the de-humping. Cutting out the constuction paper patterns is tricky but a must. This pic gives an idea of the extra tire room gained by doing this.
 

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You know you can get a pretty big tire in there with out doing the de-hump thing. Do you have the tires that you want to use in the back so you can do some mock up before you proceed with........
 
Eh, no problem with gaining a little extra room if you're willing to do the work :icon_thumleft: I also forgot to ask if you already got your wheels and tires?
 
No wheels or tires yet. But I have made up my mind to go on and do this., already bought the 20 gauge sheetmetal to do it with.. In 1970 I put N-50x15's on the 1st of the 3- 70 RR's that I had, and with a minor lip tweak they did not rub even at times when I had the cars low in the rear. So I know fairly well what it can handle without de-humping. And as I said before, I may even do a mini tub mod later down the road also. I realize that the street/strip tires out nowadays need not be that big to even make this car pull wheelies. But in case I ever want to put some really huge/wide/tall tires on it (bigger than N-50's) just for looks, and keep the rear low, I can.
 
More room is better then not enough if you have in mind maybe later to do it! Looks like you have it figured out good..
 
The main reason I did that modification on mine is because I'm going to drop it 1"-2", you can run big tires without doing it if you have stiff springs and not dropping it but it doesn't take a genius to look at it and see that if you fill the fenders and ever compress the suspension much "your in trouble". I watched my brother ruin the rear quarters of what's now my 1975 Torino doing the very thing. Always better safe than sorry.
 
Yep doesn't seem like a ton of work just to be safe and have some extra room. :icon_thumleft: what wheel size/style were you thinking abot going with Daytona?
 
Yep doesn't seem like a ton of work just to be safe and have some extra room. :icon_thumleft: what wheel size/style were you thinking about going with Daytona?

Not sure yet,. I kinda like pro star wheels.. Haven't given it much thought since it will be quite some time before I need them at the pace I'm going., but probably not that big at first. I am going to be racing it a little, hopefully. So I will most likely get some of those M/T street legal strip radials which appear to be very sticky, therefore big width will not be that necessary I believe. But I may get 2 sets, 1 for racing and 1 for looks/cruising. I like the size of this guys tires, which seem to work very well>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bkGD3JITfb0
 
I had Weld Pro Stars on my last car "excellent wheels" they are easy to take care of and just about anything can be polished out with them.
 
I thought for a long time about how to do this de-hump mod based on 747's pics. I thought it might be easier to cut the stock metal out before welding in the new metal but to keep the lip in place I left some pieces in for bracing which will be easy to cut out later after the new metal goes on. I am also going to flange the joint/seams. I left 1/2 inch of metal inside the lines where the new metal will go and I will bend that 1/2 inch up to meet the flanged edges of the new metal. And I will punch spot weld holes in the new metal for the connections. I will leave some tabs where the 2 new pieces meet. This should be as close to factory looking seams and as strong as I can figure how to do it. Thnx again 747.
 

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I started spot welding the 1st piece on. I flanged the edge and punched spot holes. It seams to be fitting good. Only getting an hour or 2 a night to work on it but making some progress every night during the week after work.
 

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