$500- 68 charger

[daytona kid]

Just about done. It did warp a little and there are some pin holes. Should I worry with a few pin holes? Some are in some thin metal so it would be tuff to fix them. What is the best type of bondo/filler that will cover this scar? Por-15, Rust Bullit? or just good ole bondo?

 

[71airgrabberRR]

"Tiger Hair"

I would cover the seam with a body filler that has fiberglass strands in it. It's similar to "Bondo", but a lot stronger. We call it Tiger Hair and it's a green color. You can rough shape it, then fill over it with traditional body fillers. It will make a nice repair.

Hope this helps.

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Spray on an epoxy type paint prior to using the filler. That will seal the bare metal from rusting. Southern Polyurethanes makes a great paint made just for this purpose. Scuff the epoxy up prior to adding the filler if you want to, just don't take it down to bare metal.

 

[hunt2elk]

Welding them up would be the best. But if you don't think that would work well, I would at least use a fiber strand filler. I've heard of some people using a product called Metal to Metal, but I'm not familiar with it.

 

[chargercrazed]

For the pin holes and the areas where the metal is thin use one of these copper plates from Eastwood. When attached on the backside of the quarter joint you can weld in the holes.
Amazing work you are doing for the first time.

http://www.eastwood.com/welders/welding.html

 

[747mopar]

Agree with chargercrazed, I've used copper as a backer to fill minor pin holes I even made a set of forked vise grips that have a copper bottom jaw for clamping spot welds "never blow threw". If you decide to use filler always seal the back side, if it draws moisture it will bubble threw (seam sealer will do the trick).

 

[Propwash]

Nice work kid! Great to see the quarter on there. I'm with these guys, weld the pin holes in.

 

[Mr.SpeedFreak]

Agreed welding would be best and holding the piece of copper underneath would make it easier, used that trick on a couple pinholes in my trunk and it works fine.

But if you're going to use filler, don't use the short strand fiberglass bondo cause from what I've seen it's prone to lifting and cracking. The only thing I would recommend for that use is All-Metal, it's basically an alluminum body filler that's waterproof and tough as hell. Around 40 bucks a quart at Napa, but neither me or my buddy that restores Mopars for a living have had any problems with it. So either that or welding should be fine :icon_thumleft:

 

[Ron 73]

Maybe some JB weld instead of filler if you going that route, Id think that would last but just throwing it out there.. :dontknow:

 

[daytona kid]

I will weld the pin holes. I have a copper spoon that I have used behind thin metal. It did work well... I cut a section out of the right side 1/4 skin and found to much rust on the house lip, so I will patch it similar to the left one. I was hoping to be able to patch it without having to buy another house half but I decided it would easier to fix with a piece of a new one.

 

[hunt2elk]

The project is looking great. I think welding up the pin holes in the quarter is a wise decision. Everything will be a solid piece of metal and you wont have to worry about any bad spots poking though your paint years down the road. I almost had to laugh when you mention having to buy another wheel house. I did the same thing - made a list and bought everything I would possibly need for the rebuild. Save on shipping charges right? Then get things torn apart and realized I really should have a new full floor pan, then 2 weeks later found a couple more small pieces I had to order. Every time I called Jeff@521 Restorations, he would kind of chuckle and say something like 'I thought you told me that you already had everything to finish the project'. Guess not.

 

[RyanSchoen]

But if you're going to use filler, don't use the short strand fiberglass bondo cause from what I've seen it's prone to lifting and cracking.

That's interesting as I have had good luck with fiberglass filler and know of others who have as well. I have used Everglass with great results. However I have also used the metal to metal and it worked well.

 

[Mr.SpeedFreak]

That's interesting as I have had good luck with fiberglass filler and know of others who have as well. I have used Everglass with great results. However I have also used the metal to metal and it worked well.

Huh, I was using the bondo brand short strand on my chevelle and seemed like kindof a 50/50 shot on if it lasted or didn't. I don't have any experience with everglass though. :thinker: but so far I've never had any problems with All-Metal, and in general seemed like stronger stuff. (supposedly "the closest you can get to lead filler")

 

[dvw]

First seal the holes with something. POR from the back side until it flows trough the holes. Guaranteed it will never bubble. I use Duraglass as a base coat, then Bondo. I can say that I filled some holes with All Metal over 25 years ago, some up to 1/4". It still looks perfect to this day. Try to dolly the panel as straight as possible before coating. Low spots are always better then high. The results
Doug

 

[Ron 73]

Nice looking car dvw, like that color!

 

[daytona kid]

Nice looking car dvw, like that color!

X2
Very Cuel! That is about the same color of the 1st 70RR I had.

 

[71airgrabberRR]

Everglass and All Metal

That's interesting as I have had good luck with fiberglass filler and know of others who have as well. I have used Everglass with great results. However I have also used the metal to metal and it worked well.

Thats the name of the filler I have used before. Stuff works great.

I just couldn't remember the name..... I guess thats a sign Im getting older.....

Then I have also used All Metal. It's a very good product too. I'm glad that you were able to weld in the holes. That is the best way if you can do it.

The reason why I recommended what I did in my earlier post was because I didn't know what your skill level was and was under the impression that you were going to leave it as is.

But if you never try to do something you never know. I'm glad things worked out for you. It can be tricky welding metal when it is very thin.

Keep up the great work!!! Looking forward to more great posts.....

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If I had to pick between the 2 products, I would use All Metal.

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Either way will work just fine though. The trick is to make sure your surface is clean and rust / oil free. Try to grind down the welds until they are smooth. If you have small pinholes after grinding, go back and try to weld them up. Then smooth them down again.

If the areas are just too stubborn and keep burning through, you can leave them, I prefer not to, (too much heat / grinding work in one area can distort the panel making it wavy), but use a small hand held sand blaster like a speedy blaster to clean out the slag from the weld area.

Then wipe the entire area down with a good cleaner / degreaser. Wear rubber gloves when you do this because oil from your skin can cause you problems later. You want to make sure the surface is a surgically clean as you can make it.

BTW , I like the color above too.

 

[daytona kid]

Took a little break from the 1/4 skins and worked on the roll bar stuff a little. This is a pic of the passenger floor where the right door bar will weld to the bolted plate, nhra legal. Drivers side ditto. I welded nuts on the bottoms of the plates where all the bars will bolt on. That is the last of the 6 main bar mounts. Now I will angle cut the bars ends prior to welding to plates. And I will soon start on the 2 small ones in the main hoop going down and in, lateral braces I believe they are called. All of the main bars mounts are super reinforced with 3/16 plates weld to framework where they bolt in.

 

[cdr]

very nice

 

[BigBlock61]

Lookin real good kid

 

[Propwash]

I couldn't tell you a damn thing about a roll cage besides they use round bar, but thanks to you i'm starting to learn. Good stuff!