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$500- 68 charger

I've been covering up some repair scars and surface rust pits with a few different products that I've seen recommended. The inner wheel house patches were not as smooth as I wanted, and the inside of the 1/4 skins seams were not very pretty. I've heard the fiberglass & resin fillers will add strength and keep any missed pin holes from causing probs.
These products all say, for best results- use on bare metal prior to primmer. The All-u-Need primer says it will go over these without a problem also. I know some guys said to apply fillers after primer and I will do that with regular bondo type filler and a skim coat, but I think this was the best way to use these.
 

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Looks very good! I'm with you, I don't want to pop my trunk and reviel a bunch of weld seams. The under coating, if you choose to apply, also will hide a little on the 1/4 skins.
 
Looking great Daytona! I love that All-Metal, use it on all my welds just to seal porosity and rough in the shape before regular body filler. Have you shot any of that All-U-Need yet? Planning on laying the first of mine down tomorrow and hoping it goes well. Just a tip from the paint guy I thought I'd pass along, he said when you're laying it on it will look a little transparent like it's not covering much, but that it will actually be building up well and will turn a lot darker as it dries. Either way keep up the good work! :icon_thumleft:
 
The inner wheel house patches were not as smooth as I wanted, and the inside of the 1/4 skins seams were not very pretty.

Ruh Roh Daytona Kid . . . I'm in trouble because mine look like patchwork quilts ! ! ! LMAO . . .
 
Found this pic of a nice 68. Looks similar to Hunt's 69., minus stripe and V top.
 
I am about thru with the last of the preping before primer and about to start cleaning it to make sure there is no oil, dirt, etc on it. I have some acetone that I'll use for that but I am wanting to ask opinions on- what is the best type of cloth to use to keep from getting lint on the surfaces or anything that might cause problems?
 
You know I doubt anyone but you would ever notice the patches but those little things bother you unless you tidy them up, looks good. Like you did I always do the filler work over prepped bare metal (scuffed with at least 80 grit) but all that really matters is that it has something good to bight into. The cloth question is a good one because I've had that problem, I ended up buying a box of lint free towels (look like the blue ones you get at the parts store) from the body shop supply store that worked really well. In a pinch used T Shirts don't do to bad as long as the car is fairly smooth. Keep it up Daytona
 
I am about thru with the last of the preping before primer and about to start cleaning it to make sure there is no oil, dirt, etc on it. I have some acetone that I'll use for that but I am wanting to ask opinions on- what is the best type of cloth to use to keep from getting lint on the surfaces or anything that might cause problems?[/QUOTE

I would get what the paint and body supply store says, the one i go to and have for years has never let me down except everything i buy is more expensive when i go back for more!
 
I put some of the All-Metal filler on the top of the inner frnt fenders and in a few divots in the engine bay area to smooth it out a little more. I have to say that All-Metal is great stuff.. There was a blob of it that was sticking out from where I applied it. After it dried I thumped it with my finger and it even sounded like metal.. I plan on trying to make the engine bay clean, so I welded up a lot of the holes where wiring clipped in and such. I will route them another way so they won't show. I have seen a few guys here do the same and I like the look. The holes can be easily redrilled if needed later. You can also see where I added some of the green Z-glass filler around the patched battery area. It wasn't as smooth as I wanted and that stuff will also help strengthen it from cracking and fill any leftover unseen pin holes.
 

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I bought some of Eastwoods "metal to metal", I imagine its about what you have and i bought it for butt welds to go over all of it to fill in any gaps, pin holes what ever one may call them just to make sure of a good seal, ive only used it once in a small place and more just to see if its what i want, i do think its a good thing and i think im going to be comfortable with it, and it does give a nicer appearance with the work done and strong it is! Looking good bud!!! :)
 
I'm sure that will probably work good but you may want to consider a fiber-glass/resin type filler for those butt weld areas,. I've heard others here say and I believe that it works better for what you described. It has more of a matrix for strength and the resin sinks into and seals the pinholes, ect. It mixes to a more viscous/thin (closer to liquid) texture when applied, so it penetrates deeper into microscopic places., and that makes it stick better. But I do like the All-Metal in spots without pinholes, etc. I've been using the glass for butt weld patchs and all-metal for other spots. I'm going with different products for different specifics. Just my 2 cents.
 
I do thank you for your 2 cents!!, ill most likely check on it all before the time comes, it makes more sense, im not getting to the point i cant take advise, please do at anytime buddy!
 
I like what your doing with your engine bay, looks nice. Are you moving the battery? I know they "SHOULD" be in the engine compartment for good reasons but it sure looks nice without them. What about wiring, are you modifying the original harness to move things out of sight? The weather tight conduit I used to move it all under the fender worked out really nice and was easy to install if your looking for ideas. Looking good Daytona
 
Yes, I plan on batt in trunk. And yes I will probably mod wiring as needed. It was probably your car I saw that made me want to hide the wiring. I was wondering how you did that, are there pics of it on your thread?
 
Yes, I plan on batt in trunk. And yes I will probably mod wiring as needed. It was probably your car I saw that made me want to hide the wiring. I was wondering how you did that, are there pics of it on your thread?

Yup . . . 747 Mopar is guilty as charged, it was his car that got me going the same route ( X2 on the clean engine compartment ) . . . I also didn't like the look of the battery area, so I cut it all out and replace it with a flat panel . . . ( page 48 post 943 in my thread ) . . . LOVE the results.
 
Yes, I plan on batt in trunk. And yes I will probably mod wiring as needed. It was probably your car I saw that made me want to hide the wiring. I was wondering how you did that, are there pics of it on your thread?

Yeap, there's pics in there somewhere but I can always take more if needed. Glad you liked it!
 
Here is an update to my collection of useful links>
http://www.classicindustries.com/mopar/b-body-charger/parts/
http://www.competitionengineering.com/ceb/welcome.action
http://chassisengineering.com/
http://www.wiringharness.com/
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,43619.0.html
http://classiccars.com/listings/find/1968-1970/dodge/charger
http://www.autopartsnetwork.com/1968-dodge-charger/bvGfluqxG
http://www.cardomain.com/makemodel/1968/dodge/charger/
http://www.jimsautoparts.com/body.htm
http://www.dannysauer.com/gallery2/v/users/danny/blaster/
http://www.piratejack.net/index.php...wse&category_id=49&Itemid=6&vmcchk=1&Itemid=6
http://www.vfnfiberglass.com/site.htm
http://www.stephensperformance.com/
http://www.p-s-t.com/?gclid=CP2xj_zhkbUCFQ2nnQod_xcAQA
http://www.autobodyspecialt.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=A025
http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,carcode,1078826,d,1968_DODGE_CHARGER_6.3L_383_cubic_inch_V8.html
http://autorust.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3
http://www.shopping.com/mopar-b-body/products?CLT=SCH&KW=mopar+b+body
http://www.laysons.com/index.cfm
http://electric-life.com/
http://www.tuffwheelrestoration.com/
http://www.cachassisworks.com/c-162-roll-bar-1-34-street-drag.aspx
http://www.521restorations.com/index.pl?page=bbody
http://www.rosevillemoparts.com/index.php/c/restoration-a-b-e-body-/cPath/347
http://www.eastwood.com/
http://www.rustremover.net/
http://www.wingcarfab.com/
http://www.americansportscar.com/products/dodge-daytona-kit-0
http://www.moparstyle.com/
https://www.yearone.com/Catalog/1966.74.a.b.e.body
http://www.momusclecars.com/gallery.php?gallery=f12
http://www.restorationperformance.com/servlet/StoreFront
http://www.flamingriver.com/mopar
http://www.justmopar.com/store.php?crn=209
http://www.rustbullet.com/ProductCart/pc/viewcategories.asp
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...nIEJsb2NrICA0MTMtNDI2LTQ0MCAoUmFpc2VkIERlY2sp
http://www.swracecars.com/store/ALUMINUM-SEAT-KIT-OSCARItem_455=COMBO-KIT-16.aspx
http://www.partstrain.com/store/par...4294964910&widgetloc=JTJGaW5kZXgucGhw&src=vlb
https://www.autometaldirect.com/?op...odel=Charger&level1=40&level2=287&level3=1968
http://store.440source.com/
http://arengineering.com/products/rb-with-8162-8172-race-powermaster-alternator/
http://www.4secondsflat.com/Caltracs Installation Instructions.htm
http://uscartool.com/
http://www.restorick.com/
http://www.tonysparts.com/moparparts.asp
http://dantesparts.com/partsforsale.html
http://www.herbsparts.com/search.asp
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/restoration1.html
 
This is me if I had to go threw that much reading. :violent4: That's allot of links Daytona.
 
Thank you Daytona! I just sent a computer to a friend who works on them and im about to loose a lot of my links ive saved with information on them (completely formatting hard drive), I use Firefox and ive tried before to save so many of them to put on another computer and just couldn't figure them out so i made an email and copied probably 75 or more and put in it and saved it so i can get to them that way, these will be a great add on, i don't care what anyone says, it make take some time looking for exactly what you need but to many links? lol, i don't think so! Thanks again...
 
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