$500- 68 charger

[conv67bdere]

Wow Daytona Kid . . . that engine compartment looks GREAT ! ! Looks like things are really coming together for you - thanks for the updates ! ! !

( I want to get my engine compartment in primer now . . . That looks so good ! ! )

 

[Propwash]

Nice seeing the bay all primered up, ready to go. That center chunk seems like a pretty square deal. Heck of a lot better than a one wheel peel.

 

[daytona kid]

I knew this would be hard but I'm starting to believe it is impossible. I'm trying to put the new sway bar bushings in their brackets and it is not working. They are starting to break before they even start to go in. I think the factory put them in with the brackets apart then welded them together. Anybody know the trick?

Never mind, I cut the brackets, opened them up, put the bushings in and welded them up carefully, quickly and with a wet rag handy.

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Nice seeing the bay all primered up, ready to go. That center chunk seems like a pretty square deal. Heck of a lot better than a one wheel peel.

Dang, I know it's not great but that's the final paint. lol.

Sway-bar installed.

 

[kb67mopar]

Nice seeing the bay all primered up, ready to go. That center chunk seems like a pretty square deal. Heck of a lot better than a one wheel peel.

You making fun of me prop? haha my one wheel peel will at least sound good happening!

 

[daytona kid]

I think he was making fun of my glossatin paint job also, lol.
Got the chunk installed, and I have an axle question. I understand how to adjust the end play but how do you lock the adjuster ring (2nd pic) to keep it from moving after adjusting? .

 

[Photon440]

According to my '70 shop manual, there is a locking tab for that adjuster.

 

[kb67mopar]

There is a lock tab that is supposed to hold that in place.

 

[440+6]

 

[daytona kid]

View attachment 207944

That's what I needed to see. I get it now. Hope I can find that lock tab in my molasses bucket. I sure don't remember removing it., but that's what I get for throwing all the hardware off the car into 1 bucket. lol..

 

[cdr]

lookin great !!!!! i have the same paint everywhere on my car, glossatin gotta love it

 

[71airgrabberRR]

That's what I needed to see. I get it now. Hope I can find that lock tab in my molasses bucket. I sure don't remember removing it., but that's what I get for throwing all the hardware off the car into 1 bucket. lol..

I'm pretty sure I have a few extra laying around. Shoot me a PM if you can't find yours.

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Your car is looking great !!!

 

[Ron 73]

One things for certain, It should be clean and in great shape! Those little pieces are easy to miss and sometimes hard to find but if you put it in there its hanging around waiting

 

[Photon440]

That's why I have a big powerful magnet to fish stuff out of my bucket.

 

[daytona kid]

That's why I have a big powerful magnet to fish stuff out of my bucket.

Good idea, but my bucket is about 6" deep with most all the car's hardware. I found the lock tab tho, it was with all the rear brake parts which I had kept separate in my big cooler vat. Thnx guys!
One of my buds want some jack-stand/dollies like mine so I made him a set. The stands on these are welded to the angle iron (at his request), but can be unbolted so he can also use just the stands or just the dollies. 3 different ways to use them. I may start selling these, $400 for a set of 4.

 

[daytona kid]

Axles and brake back plates installed. Will set end play on axles and paint them tomorrow.

 

[daytona kid]

I should have notice when I removed it but one of my rear drums is shot. I've been looking for some and having trouble. I thought/hoped they were 11" but now I think they are 10" since that's what they measure I.D... I haven't seen any that look like these. The shoes are 2.5" wide. Are these 10" drums? Can you guys tell me what I have here and where I can get at least one?
This link says 10"x 2.5", is it what I need? Says it fits 68 Charger r/t. My car is not an r/t.. I assumed r/t came with 11".. I'm confused> http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/wagner-brake-drum-bd60140/20801022-P?searchTerm=brake+drum+-+rear

 

[71airgrabberRR]

I should have notice when I removed it but one of my rear drums is shot. I've been looking for some and having trouble. They appear to be 11" but I haven't seen any that look like these. The shoes are 2.5" wide. Are these 10.5" drums? Can you guys tell me what I have here and where I can get at least one?

Measure the drum from the inside area where the brake shoes rub against it when they stop the car. I can't really tell from the photo but you might have a 10 inch brake drum. Then take the measuring tape and measure how wide the area is that the brake shoes rub against. Most (but not all) 10 inch drums have a 2.5 inch wide brake shoe. You can also measure how wide the brake shoes are if you still have them. The 10" brake shoes can vary in dimension from 2 inches wide all the way to 2.75 inches.

If your car has a 2.5 inch drum you can probably go to your local parts house and buy a set. Hope this helps.

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Basically on the drum you are checking diameter (10 or 11inch) and depth (2 to 2.75)

If you can get the brake shoes and a new hardware kit while you're at it. Take in your old shoes to save a core charge.

 

[MT_Mopar]

I have an axle question. I understand how to adjust the end play but how do you lock the adjuster ring (2nd pic) to keep it from moving after adjusting? .

Ever since I messed with mine and put it back together I had leaking problems, what a PITA! That little tab locking sucker... RIP you SOB! - I ended up tearing the thing apart and putting in Moser Engineering Green Bearings: http://www.moserengineering.com/oth...mopar-dana-60-non-adjustable-w-snap-ring.html

Good reasons why to change: http://www.doctordiff.com/blog/tech-info/why-green-bearings/

Dr. Diff Sells them pretty cheap: http://www.doctordiff.com/green-bearings-pair.html

I don't want to see you go backwards on your project, just sharing one headache I had after my car was rolling down the street.

Black engine compartments rock! Keep up the good work!

View attachment 208693

 

[daytona kid]

Ever since I messed with mine and put it back together I had leaking problems, what a PITA! That little tab locking sucker... RIP you SOB! - I ended up tearing the thing apart and putting in Moser Engineering Green Bearings: http://www.moserengineering.com/oth...mopar-dana-60-non-adjustable-w-snap-ring.html

Good reasons why to change: http://www.doctordiff.com/blog/tech-info/why-green-bearings/


Dr. Diff Sells them pretty cheap: http://www.doctordiff.com/green-bearings-pair.html

I don't want to see you go backwards on your project, just sharing one headache I had after my car was rolling down the street.

Black engine compartments rock! Keep up the good work!

View attachment 208693

If I would have known they made sealed bearings I would have bought them, but it's to late now. I'm not taking it back apart, I'll just keep my fingers crossed. Thnx anyway.

 

[747mopar]

Plain and simple TAPERED BEARING ARE FAR SUPERIOR TO ROLLER BEARINGS. I work as a Maintenance-Machinist-blah blah and know from plenty of experience that roller bearings are not even in the same ball park as tapered especially when thrust comes into play so for me I would never change to the weaker Ford setup. Having said that the Ford setup obviously works just fine too.



The link does have some good points, I guess I always go back too "if it ain't broke don't fix it".