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68 GTX Project

so some updates......underdash wire harness is in good shape but a few details to wrap up

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been working over the 2 speed wiper motor some......the motor tested fine, now doing some cosmetic work

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Does anyone have an example of a 4-speed backup light harness that routes from the bulkhead connector across the bell housing and along the A833 to the BU light switch? I'm looking for an overall length? Also, does anyone sell a BU light switch pigtail?

thanks
Brian

If you are installing a console, the wires will run along the drivers door, under the seat to the center hump, at that point there is a ground screw to the floor pan and then up to the console. The back up light wiring plugs into the the console wiring harness.
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If you are installing a console, the wires will run along the drivers door, under the seat to the center hump, at that point there is a ground screw to the floor pan and then up to the console. The back up light wiring plugs into the the console wiring harness.

Appreciate the input. I am not running a console however I am familiar with the automatic console wiring as I have a complete setup for an auto.

In my case, with a 4-speed, the BU light switch wiring goes thru the bulkhead connector. The auto column shift has a similar setup (I think depending on the year) where the BU light / NS switch is on the transmission.

So anyhow I'm looking for the length of the BU light harness on the engine side of the firewall that runs from the bulkhead connector down to the BU switch in the tranny.

thanks
Brian
 
Appreciate the input. I am not running a console however I am familiar with the automatic console wiring as I have a complete setup for an auto.

In my case, with a 4-speed, the BU light switch wiring goes thru the bulkhead connector. The auto column shift has a similar setup (I think depending on the year) where the BU light / NS switch is on the transmission.

So anyhow I'm looking for the length of the BU light harness on the engine side of the firewall that runs from the bulkhead connector down to the BU switch in the tranny.

thanks
Brian

My Coronet was a 4 speed console car and the wire routing was very much like the automatics. Sorry I couldn't be of any help with the length of wire you need.
 
ok, moving on, dash wire harness done and plans in place for the other wire harnesses. Wiper motor done, tested and working well. Giving it a week or two for the paint to cure before I wrap it up and put it on the shelf.

Now off for a fun adventure with instrument clusters!

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So curious, what does the world believe is the correct cluster for 68 'X? I pulled from my 68 'X a 120 MPH speedo cluster with no tach(see the middle cluster in the pix). For some reason I don't think this 68 cluster was OEM, but not real sure. I pulled from my '69 'X the one on the right with the tach and 150 MPH speedo with single/two digit (no zero) speedo numbers. The one on the left is a donor 150 MPH cluster I grabbed at a swap.

What speedos had the full 2/3 digit speed numbers?
 
See this for info...

http://www.performancecargraphics.com/Dash_Stuff/B-body_Standard_ID.htm

2. Very early 1968 (built in the period from August through about early September of 1967) GTX and Coronet R/T cars (all with 150 mph speedometer) had zeroes after each lens white numeral. These lenses are very difficult to read, due to the crowding.

3. Only GTX and Coronet R/T got 150 speedos, which is true for each year 1968-70

Note #3 should say "only and always"
 
spring is here so I'm back to metal work in the garage!

Time for the quarter panels.....

Any thoughts on approaches to disassemble this leaded seam?

Not really a fan of the idea of grinding the lead away. Melt it out maybe? That doesn't sound like fun either.

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propane torch and a wire brush, eazy peazy.... where 1/4 meets the rocker too
 
propane torch and a wire brush, eazy peazy.... where 1/4 meets the rocker too


OK, easy peasy is right. I hesitated melting all that lead and warping the panels.....not an issue.

so after removing the lead my little project blessed me with some more metal work I was hoping not to find!

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the rocker connection looks good (enough) on the drivers side
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one more little surprise! after hogging out a pile of mud I found why my driver door gap was jacked at the top where the door meets the quarter. Must of been pushed back at some point and filled with mud! Grrr! :cursin:

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Yep, I had problems in all the same places.
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You can see the filler at the top of the door post.
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Support structure under the sail panels needed major repair. Ended up scrapping the roof skin.
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