68 RM23 Roadrunner, The rebuild of an old friend

[Runner 68]

Hey Gent's, still chipping away here. Thought it was time for an update to let you all know I haven't keeled over yet.
This BS supply chain crisis is kind of hindering the project but adjusting as I can.
Have been ordering engine parts. The two most critical, heads and stroker kit are in limbo. Heads should be here early February, the stroker kit is in indefinite suspension. WTF.

In the meantime still plenty to do. Under carriage done. I have been taking my time going through all the old parts and re-assembling where I can. A big order from DMT should arrive tomorrow. All of my original trim pieces have been cleaning up nicely, better than expected actually. I was stressed about popping in the drip rail pieces but they were a snap.

Thinking about shooting the red on the tail panel a little darker red. What do you guys think?

 

[440jimr]

The red appears to be very close to the original appliqué color….I like it!

 

[Runner 68]

The red appears to be very close to the original appliqué color….I like it!

Thanks 440. It seems a bit light to me. I thought the goal was to match the taillights. I think I missed, maybe not.

 

[moparedtn]

The repro reflective decal/stripe on my '68 GTX tail panel works fine for the reflecting part, but
I'm not a big fan of how it looks in daylight at all. Painting the area may have been the better
way to go?

 

[Runner 68]

The red appears to be very close to the original appliqué color….I like it!

****, they make an applique? I'll be damned. Not sure which would be more difficult to apply. The sticker probably would have turned out cleaner. I have a couple of ragged masking edges.
How were they originally. Decal or paint? Christ I even painted the PLYMOUTH letters.

 

[Runner 68]

Trunk gasket in. Fully assembled driver side wing. All original except for the gasket.
I have been working on polishing the original glass. The glass is all in very good shape so far. I would rather use the original than go to repop.
One because it will go back together better and two I want to preserve the original etchings in the glass. I can live with a few scratches that I can't get out. Taking it a pane at a time. The driver door glass appears to be the worst but I think I can live with it.

 

[Cranky]

Trunk gasket in. Fully assembled driver side wing. All original except for the gasket.
I have been working on polishing the original glass. The glass is all in very good shape so far. I would rather use the original than go to repop.
One because it will go back together better and two I want to preserve the original etchings in the glass. I can live with a few scratches that I can't get out. Taking it a pane at a time. The driver door glass appears to be the worst but I think I can live with it.
View attachment 1188476 View attachment 1188477

Those clothes pins must be pre-china pins!? I still have some of the big USA made pins from years ago and they still have paint on them from fixing up an old 88 Dodge Shadow around 91. Used them for pinning up a sheet to keep over spray out of the interior. Btw, that's a pretty nice looking butt!

 

[Runner 68]

Those clothes pins must be pre-china pins!? I still have some of the big USA made pins from years ago and they still have paint on them from fixing up an old 88 Dodge Shadow around 91. Used them for pinning up a sheet to keep over spray out of the interior. Btw, that's a pretty nice looking butt!

Thanks Cranky, the nice butt comment means allot coming from you.
The pins are chinese as hell unfortunately. Bought a pack of 75 at the grocery store the other day for $3.50. About 20 of the f@ckers broke.

 

[blue69runner]

Looking good on the restore. Like the idea of using what you can original.

 

[Cranky]

Thanks Cranky, the nice butt comment means allot coming from you.
The pins are chinese as hell unfortunately. Bought a pack of 75 at the grocery store the other day for $3.50. About 20 of the f@ckers broke.

The pins I got came from an estate sale....and yeah, you tell the China made ones from the others. Seems like they can't even make a good clothes pin!

 

[Runner 68]

Looking good on the restore. Like the idea of using what you can original.

Thanks blue. I'm kind of torn on the glass issue. I'll polish it out as best I can. It's that aesthetic thing, brand new shiny paint, fresh polished stainless, scratched glass.
The original glass will re-assemble better I know. The way I look at it the door glass will be down most of the time anyway, cruising, shows, etc. I'll go with all original and then worry about it if it bugs me too much.
Cant wait to break open the back glass and see what shape its in. That's the biggy.

 

[blue69runner]

I here that. That is where water and trash dose trap. Hope it is all good. After market glass has it's draw back's. Saved my pop out window and vent glass. They cleaned up good. Tried to clean the back glass with stuff off Ebay but it did not work that good. They where deep scratches though. So it would not fit either but that is life. That is one reason why I had a glass made. Costly for a one off but did finely fill that hole. Good luck hope all your restoration dream come true. LOL.

 

[GoMango68]

Thanks blue. I'm kind of torn on the glass issue. I'll polish it out as best I can. It's that aesthetic thing, brand new shiny paint, fresh polished stainless, scratched glass.
The original glass will re-assemble better I know. The way I look at it the door glass will be down most of the time anyway, cruising, shows, etc. I'll go with all original and then worry about it if it bugs me too much.
Cant wait to break open the back glass and see what shape its in. That's the biggy.

Out of curiosity, what product and process are you using on the glass? I'm a pro detailer, and have some experience in the glass polishing world.

 

[Runner 68]

Out of curiosity, what product and process are you using on the glass? I'm a pro detailer, and have some experience in the glass polishing world.

Starting with clean glass I have been using cerium oxide on a thick heavy felt pad (2") and scrubbing it slowly, plenty of H2O to keep it cool. Once all the slight swirl, age scratches, etc. are out I hit it with the same compound on a stiff foam buffing pad on a 3" buffer. I wait until the compound starts to dry out a bit then spritz with distilled water and keep working until the polish is pretty much dissolved. Super clear results overall. Adding a bit of super orange hand cleaner with pumice seems to help.

Anything that can be felt with a fingernail, forget it. I have experimented with sanding a scab piece of glass starting at 220 grit then building up like polishing stainless, plastic, or paint. Too much work. Tempered glass is just so ******* hard.

Keep in mind all of the glass is out of the car. I can put a pane on a stand and get very aggressive with it.

 

[GoMango68]

Oof, I couldn't imagine doing it by hand! A rotary with a rayon pad is ideal, and even with a forced rotation DA, both have worked great for me. Even had to dramatically diminish a windshield scratch, that was caused by the wiper arm running on the glass with no blade.

I specifically use Carpro's Ceriglass (there are plenty of quality glass polishes), with either a 3" or 5" rayon pad on a machine. It takes time, patience, and keeping it wet will keep your working time going, until your tired or want to inspect lol. I've had people try it for a minute, and give up, thinking it would be nearly immediate results, like paint but it took a group of us over an hour of near constant polishing to reduce the deep scratch.

As long as you keep moving, I've never had too much heat in a piece of glass. I have found though, that it's most productive to have a helper keep the slurry wet, with an occasional spritz of water too. Less stopping to re-wet is more productive in my experience.

 

[Runner 68]

Oof, I couldn't imagine doing it by hand! A rotary with a rayon pad is ideal, and even with a forced rotation DA, both have worked great for me. Even had to dramatically diminish a windshield scratch, that was caused by the wiper arm running on the glass with no blade.

I specifically use Carpro's Ceriglass (there are plenty of quality glass polishes), with either a 3" or 5" rayon pad on a machine. It takes time, patience, and keeping it wet will keep your working time going, until your tired or want to inspect lol. I've had people try it for a minute, and give up, thinking it would be nearly immediate results, like paint but it took a group of us over an hour of near constant polishing to reduce the deep scratch.

As long as you keep moving, I've never had too much heat in a piece of glass. I have found though, that it's most productive to have a helper keep the slurry wet, with an occasional spritz of water too. Less stopping to re-wet is more productive in my experience.

The heavy felt pad is on a relatively slow right angle drill. I hate doing **** by hand too. I have found that when you think you should be done. Go over it at least 4 more times. Did the passenger side quarter glass yesterday and it turned out very good. Will still hit it a few more times.
I'm throwing in the towel on the driver side door and quarter glass. Will replace it with ECS. If the passenger door polishes out as good as the quarter glass I will re-use it. Re-using both of the vent wings. ECS is good stuff I know. Trying to limit the bleeding as best I can. I pretty sure I'll have to replace the back glass but I wont know until I get it cleaned up. I may get lucky.

 

[Runner 68]

All the original passenger side glass has passed the 1' distance polish out test. Door glass below and it was the worst. Quarter glass polished even better. Vent glass pretty much flawless. To be sure, there are a few deeper dings that won't come out but I like the idea of being able to reuse at least half of the original glass.

Driver side door and quarter glass will be replaced. Original driver side vent glass good to go. I'll worry about the back glass when I get to that point.

 

[Photon440]

Makes me want to put my cerium oxide to work right now. Looking nice and clear!

 

[Runner 68]

Makes me want to put my cerium oxide to work right now. Looking nice and clear!

Yeah, but it makes me wonder if it's worth the labor. About 8 hours just in that one pane. At least I know it will fit.

 

[Runner 68]

Passenger side glass in and adjusted pretty close, all original. Will wait to finalize everything until after the whiskers and drip gasket are in. Whiskers should be here in two weeks.
Driver side glass on the way.