69 gtx
- Thread starter 69 GTX
- Start date
I wish! Still have to do all the interior yet, including dash.
BTW would it be ok to bring my dog to the car show?
Gpuller
Well-Known Member
Oh, yeah that would be helpful.
On your dog...I'm not sure. Dont remember seeing any before. Is it a seeing eye dog?
No, just thought I could bring him and spend the night. I'll be there next year!
Looks like about a 4.5 hour trip from my place.
Gpuller
Well-Known Member
2.5hrs from Cedar Falls. How far are you from there?
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
Excellent choice!
moparjohnny
Well-Known Member
tim did you use a special socket for oil sending switch? thanks
- Local time
- 7:25 AM
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2011
- Messages
- 74,020
- Reaction score
- 113,026
- Location
- NorCal Sierras
Great build I especially like the engine Jim/IQ52 did
great choice
great choice
Yes I did Mopar Johnny. Engine is in! Pictures to come.
moparjohnny
Well-Known Member
tim did you use anything on the threads of oil switch to help seal switch.thanks
Yes the unit came with the red sealer already on the threads, but you can also use Teflon tape.
So to back up I'll start with the tranny.
The flex plate only goes on one way so get it lined up first. I also took this picture to verify it has a SFI approved rating if needed later.
I used ARP fasteners and followed the directions for torque & thread locker.
I put 1 quart of fluid in the convertor per PTC instructions before installing. Also I check for convertor engagement. PTC says the convertor should bottom out then come back .125-188 when mating against the flex plate. After checking mine was .190 I think the extra .002 won't be a problem. Also lay your flex plate against the torque convertor mounting holes to get it oriented right. It will also only mate one way. This will save you getting a couple bolts in and then finding it doesn't line up on the next hole.
The flex plate only goes on one way so get it lined up first. I also took this picture to verify it has a SFI approved rating if needed later.
I used ARP fasteners and followed the directions for torque & thread locker.
I put 1 quart of fluid in the convertor per PTC instructions before installing. Also I check for convertor engagement. PTC says the convertor should bottom out then come back .125-188 when mating against the flex plate. After checking mine was .190 I think the extra .002 won't be a problem. Also lay your flex plate against the torque convertor mounting holes to get it oriented right. It will also only mate one way. This will save you getting a couple bolts in and then finding it doesn't line up on the next hole.
You can see the interference point for the Gear Vendor OD. Per instructions the say you may have to clearance for the corners.
So I did. Keep in mind that earlier I noted the tranny poly mount was .25 taller than the one I took out. Well after installing the engine it was still hitting so I will have to modify the crossmember.
I put towels on the fender wells to keep from scratching them during the install. I also used wire to hold the headers while lowering the engine.
I had to clearance the motor mount a little where marked to get the compression fitting for the dipstick back in.
With the engine bolted in I moved to the headers.
I'll have to get longer bolts here, not enough engagement for my liking!
Overall went pretty smooth. I did it by myself so I could go slow and double check everything. Took me about 3 hours. Hope to bolt the convertor together and install the starter next.
69clone
Well-Known Member
Awesome! Its looking good. I am stealing your idea of using the engine hoist to lift the tranny up. I used ratcheting straps connected to my subframe connectors to lift and lower mine PITA... I'm just waiting on my trans mount before I put it back in.
Oh and since you are getting new bolts for the headers have you considered studs? Depending on how much clearance you have to work with they make it easier to mount as you don't have to worry about lining up the hole while holding the header in one hand and screwing the bolt in with the other.
Oh and since you are getting new bolts for the headers have you considered studs? Depending on how much clearance you have to work with they make it easier to mount as you don't have to worry about lining up the hole while holding the header in one hand and screwing the bolt in with the other.
I prefer bolts, studs always seem to be a fight for me. Also I used a floor jack to help lift the tranny. Used the creeper to roll it under the car, then up on jack to install crossmember.
Got the torque convertor & and dust shield installed last night. Went smooth and first try. Marking the convertor to flex plate definitely helped.
Similar threads
- Locked
