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69 gtx

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So I got the cross member reworked last night. If you didn't know I stated earlier the new poly mount was .25 taller than OEM. So with the gear vender I needed that .25 back. I simply cut the bottom plate off and spaced it down. If your ever in a bind and need some brass for a backstop when welding, a old tip from your welder works great. Anyway. got it welded up and repainted and back in the car. Got the last of the linkage cleaned up and ready to install tonight. Slowly making progress.
 
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So I got my front spoiler from Randy's Spoilers. Arrived well packaged and unharmed. When I inspected it I was overall please with it. When I went to bolt it up it was a bit of a struggle as with one side started the right side was about a 1"-1.5" from where it should be. It could also of used some small reliefs at the bottom of the license plate are. The paint on it was rough and came off kinda easy. Over all I'd give it a C+ I think a hour or 2 and I can have it ready for a repaint. I did like that it wasn't overly big.
I have also decided to go with the 26 Griffin exact fit radiator. Got it ordered last night. This is my first big regret I've run into. I wish I had put a 26" radiator support in when I did the car. I'm going to install it on the 22" support without opening the support. We will see how it does. I had a few people tell me the 22" radiator would do the job, but I will be running AC and had my doubts. The guy from Smith's told me I'd have to run 2 electric fans + the mechanical one to maintain 195-200 during the hot days with a 180 stat. That just seemed to close to the edge for me. I want this thing to idle through a 2 hour parade in 90 degree heat if I want to. So I will see how it shakes out. I'm thinking of using a smaller water pump pulley maybe something in the 1:1.2 range to speed up the pump & fan at idle. Also with the OD I'll have sometimes with lower RPMs. I think if I get the shroud sealed real good I should be alright. We shall see.
 
I will probably do a Randy's chin spoiler as well once I get moving again. After what you said about paint I may ask him to send it unfinished and then have it powdercoated after a trial fit?
 
Good idea! I'll show more detail when I rework it to give you a idea.
 
So spent a little time over the weekend on the car. Lots of work and little progress! First the mini starter I got didn't want to pull down flush on the tranny. After some looking with the flash light I found this!
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See the raised boss there with the smudge on it, yep had to remove it, was rubbing on the block. I removed that and got almost there. I had to take .020 off the snout pilot then she went in like it was supposed to. Next up kick down linkage. I had to rework the arm on the carb by shortening it .75 and the down rod got that added to it. I had to rebend them also. I think the trick flows are longer and taller. So on to the shift linkage. I wanted to retain the column shift. I fought that for at least a hour trying to get that installed and when I did it was all bound up and not setting in the cat right. Seems the drivers side of the of the engine was high, hmmmm.
So I start looking and wouldn't you know it, those POS Schumacher motor mounts again!
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So if you look at this shim I made it the same profile as the motor mounts. The 45 degree area was hitting on the upright brace on the K frame and not allowing the mount so sit completely down on the saddle by about .2 so I jacked the motor up got the mount out and started grinding till I got enough clearance to let the mount completely sit down on the saddle. With that done I quit for the night. I'll try to get the shift linkage back in tonight. Also I bought the headman 3/8 x 1.00 zinc plated bolts for the headers. Look much better than the black ones.
 
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Sometimes it's easier to fab an item from scratch than rework parts that are supposedly made to fit!
 
Yes it's a mini starter. I had seen several people had bought theirs. Was only 69$ free shipping. The powermaster starters were about 250-300$ and basically same starter with a billet snout. My set up is 10:1 440 so I figured it would be fine. Headers are TTI BTW. I entered 94 Dakota when ordering the starter
I think mine actually came from a used 94 Dakota at junkyard on my 69 X!
 
BTW the starter can be installed with headers in place only if steering column isn't in.
 
Not sure but you're probably right.........
 
I have also decided to go with the 26 Griffin exact fit radiator. Got it ordered last night. This is my first big regret I've run into. I wish I had put a 26" radiator support in when I did the car. I'm going to install it on the 22" support without opening the support. We will see how it does. I had a few people tell me the 22" radiator would do the job, but I will be running AC and had my doubts. The guy from Smith's told me I'd have to run 2 electric fans + the mechanical one to maintain 195-200 during the hot days with a 180 stat. That just seemed to close to the edge for me. I want this thing to idle through a 2 hour parade in 90 degree heat if I want to. So I will see how it shakes out. I'm thinking of using a smaller water pump pulley maybe something in the 1:1.2 range to speed up the pump & fan at idle. Also with the OD I'll have sometimes with lower RPMs. I think if I get the shroud sealed real good I should be alright. We shall see.[/QUOTE]

Hi GTX,

This may be a dumb question but this mean there is not a benefit of using a 26" radiator if you have a 22" support? I ask because I was going to do the exact same thing on my 72 340 but like you, currently have a 22 radiator support but wanted to upgrade to a 26. If there is not a big advantage to do this then I will just keep my old one. I don't have A/C but I do plan on stroking it out so I thought it might need a better cooling system. BTW, you car is looking awesome!
 
I have heard conflicting opinions. One side says the 26 on a 22 opening will not be of any benefit. On the otherhand I've had others say that just the extra capacity is a benefit. I have to believe that the greater the cooling area of the radiator the more cooling that occurs. Even if it isn't optimal. I also think it has to do more with the HP your engine makes and not the cu in. These are just my unfounded ideas. I'll let everyone know when I get it up and running.
 
I have heard conflicting opinions. One side says the 26 on a 22 opening will not be of any benefit. On the otherhand I've had others say that just the extra capacity is a benefit. I have to believe that the greater the cooling area of the radiator the more cooling that occurs. Even if it isn't optimal. I also think it has to do more with the HP your engine makes and not the cu in. These are just my unfounded ideas. I'll let everyone know when I get it up and running.

Yeah, and unless you had a 26 inch and a 22 inch radiator to try back to back, we will never know...
 
I'd say jumping to a 26" will help. There is only a couple of inches the 26" rad that is blocked by the 22" support. The extra capacity is a bonus too.
 
That's kind of what I thought as well. Looking on year one, it looks like I need a special bracket to go from the 22 to 26 on a 72.
 
I was looking at my service manual and noticed that the 440 HPs with AC came with 26"
radiators so that's kinda what sealed the deal for me. I'm making some brackets to center the radiator shroud on the fan.
 
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So the Griffin Exact fit 26" showed up. I the shroud on and found center of the opening so I could make some adapter brackets to bolt it in rather than drilling some holes.
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I'll have to close up the gaps around the shroud to maximize the shroud.
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I got the tranny lines run, I decided they needed some heat protection from the headers so I put some thermal sleeve on it.
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Got the proportioning valve installed near tranny crossmemeber.
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Got the shift & kickdown linkage installed.
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Also got the brackets & springs on the carbs. Finally had a good weekend where I felt like I made some good headway!
 
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