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69 Satellite

So here are the hood gaps driver and passenger. Ive added some shims on the DS, but still tighton the back half. DS front to mid hood the gap is good at what the doors and back of the hood is at. PS huge gap. Ive moved the fenders as much as i can get them to move but it isnt enough. Any ideas/adjustments that will get it closer,

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Still at a loss on the hood. Took the passenger fender off.put it back on, got the gap slightly smaller, but the DS is smaller now too. Gave up and moved to the trunk hinges. I forgot what a pain those rods were. Doesnt fit too bad, more wiggle room than the hood.

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So thoughts on the hood, dad was throwing out the idea of shim behind the hood hinge on DS. Im not so sure. Anyone go this route, seems like it would add some flex unless it was a large plate shim similar to the door striker. Good/bad? Running into a wall and hoping someone more knowledgeable has a life changing idea.
 
Sick of fighting the front end so continued work with the trunk area over the holiday, was able to finsh the hinge mounts extensions and shot some epoxy on it. Did an hour of loosen, wiggle, tighten repeat on the hood today. Fitting better, got close to a consistent gap, but now i need to move PS fender slightly foward again. Never ends. Dad asked if we were gonna be done by the time he turns 70. Thats four years old man! Hopefully will be done in 8 months, Hood willing.

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Not much progress over the weekend. Cleaned up the garage and did a few odds and ends. Yesterday was two years into the restoration. Start picture from then and current one.

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Well since i have to take everything back apart to spray inside surfaces and winter is around the corner, I might as well get the outer shell in epoxy. Good temps today and tomorrow so I have the 1st coat laid down. It takes a little while to get back into spraying auto paints as I spend all day spraying wood conversion varnishes, much more heavy solid based and it dosent require multiple coats, so changing back to spraying a medium wet/light coat just doesnt feel right. Feel free to give grief over my lazy tape off job on the bottom, it bothers me as well. I just didnt feel like opening a brand new roll and used all my scrap.

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Round 3 for all but hood and PS door. Calling it a day, should be nice and warm tonight.

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Didnt have the time i needed after work to put the primer on but I was able to get the sound deadening on the inner quarters. Couldnt bend the gun/my arm at the angle i needed on the passenger side so the coat was not as consistent. Hindsight should've used a swivel air fitting.

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Put the primer on, i was debating just leaving it in epoxy for now, but putting it on now saves alot of sanding later. Still alot of work left before its ready for paint

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Not alot of work the past few weeks. Plugged the old GTX holes in the trunk and test fit quarter window in the repop door. Need to fit up the satellite trim on the trunk and drill the holes for it

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Well didnt get it painted before the cold set in, so we have the winter to set up all the odds and ends, starting with headache first (wiring). Only been at it a few hours and already miss dealing with rust. We went with a painless harness since the bulkhead was deleted and the battery moved to the trunk as well as also needing provisions for other items. Im not an expert with wiring, but i have done a significant amount in the past so i can make it work just wont enjoy the process. Im sure if I get stuck someone will have some good advice.

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Well three hours in, I understand the original wiring jumps/ties, also sorted out the painless a little better than it was put together. Overall I think making a few jumpers that will be needed and the extra items that is not incorporated into the painless harness shouldnt be too crazy. Last words and all that.... calling it a day

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Add extra ground leads, the more the better. I like using star lock washers on both side of the terminals at the ground to whatever connections. Helps to bite in to all. Knock the paint/grundge etc off of the metal prior and put a dab of dielectric grease on all at that junction. Keeps rust away which takes the ground connection away. If you are inclined, American Autowire makes a pair of really bitchin crimpers which cover the Detroit stuff like our cars. I've used them quite a bit and love the crimps you get without crushing the terminals. Available from the usual mail order outlets.
Double and Single Crimper Set
 
Add extra ground leads, the more the better. I like using star lock washers on both side of the terminals at the ground to whatever connections. Helps to bite in to all. Knock the paint/grundge etc off of the metal prior and put a dab of dielectric grease on all at that junction. Keeps rust away which takes the ground connection away. If you are inclined, American Autowire makes a pair of really bitchin crimpers which cover the Detroit stuff like our cars. I've used them quite a bit and love the crimps you get without crushing the terminals. Available from the usual mail order outlets.
Double and Single Crimper Set
Good advice. Those washers are great for grounds, they do bite in nice. I would like to find some ground lugs like are used in the newer ford cars/trucks, but I believe they are made into the vehicle, cant find them for sale. Thought about going to the junk yard and removing a few. Ive also considered a few weld studs/dist blocks to consolidate ground.
 
Good price this time of year. Ordered this on Thursday and already delivered.

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Add extra ground leads, the more the better. I like using star lock washers on both side of the terminals at the ground to whatever connections. Helps to bite in to all. Knock the paint/grundge etc off of the metal prior and put a dab of dielectric grease on all at that junction. Keeps rust away which takes the ground connection away. If you are inclined, American Autowire makes a pair of really bitchin crimpers which cover the Detroit stuff like our cars. I've used them quite a bit and love the crimps you get without crushing the terminals. Available from the usual mail order outlets.
Double and Single Crimper Set
Those look like a nice set of crimpers. Are they similar to weatherpack/metri(open barrel style) in the way they close down? I am using deutsch connectors for the rewire.
 
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